2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Rear Brake Drum Removal/Brake Overhaul/Real Axle Seal Replacement

[MAYoung]

1998. 5 Dodge 2500 4x4 Quad Cab NV4500 5 Speed 207,600 Miles



Gentlemen:



This thread is simply to document my efforts to maintain my truck. I just recently installed a FASS DDRP 02 in my truck and I have documented those efforts in another thread. I am now working on installing new rear brakes shoes for my truck.



The reason for this undertaking is that my daughter is slowly learning to drive the truck and tow a trailer. I have to make this truck as "bullet proof" as I possibly can so that I can have confidence that the vehicle will transport her safely.



I have had what I consider three major failures with this truck: The VP44 fuel injector pump (once at nearly 80,000 miles (warranty), once at nearly 160,000 miles (my nickle); the third item was the failure of NV4500 5 speed manual transmission at about 188,000 miles. All failures where related to inadequate monitoring of maintenance items... lack of a fuel pressure gauge and failure to change the transmission gear oil frequently enough. Consequently, I am becoming more aggressive at maintenance.



Rear Drum Removal



I will never undertake even the simplest of task without checking with TDR Roundtable!. I raised the rear of the truck on jack stands and removed the wheels. I expected the drums to come off with a few taps of a wood block. The driver side did; the passenger side did not.



After about a hour of off and on effort, I finally was able to remove the drum. It required a small hardwood block (1" square and 8" long), a 20 oz. hammer and copious amounts of LPS-1 lubrication. I placed the block on the back of the drum, tapped it with the hammer and then rotated the drum to a different location. It finally popped loose.



I am not sure if the lubrication helped but the drum was frozen on the hub after 12. 5 years of rust, wear and tear. IT WOULD HAVE HELPED GREATLY IF I WOULD HAVE TAKEN THE TIME TO READ THE ROUNDTABLE FIRST! There were several good suggestions in dealing with the problem posted from 10 years ago. Lesson learned..... again.



Brake Shoe Inspection and Replacement



After the drum was removed, the driver side brake shoes displayed a big problem--lots of sludge from a leak in the axle seal. It covered everything. I am in the process of cleaning the components but it will take a while. The wheel cylinder appears in good shape but I am up grading the units to the GM part--Napa P/N 37337.



The passenger side shoes had the normal dust and dirt but where in good shape. Both sides had plenty of shoe material left. I guess it speak volumes to the freeway miles placed on the truck.



I am installing Raybestos shoes obtained from NAPA auto parts--about $104. 00 plus tax. Made in Mexico. I am sure that there are better shoes. I also saw a lot of cheaper shoes. I was not comfortable with the cheaper variety. I am also installing all new springs and hardware components. They were actually made in the USA. Both the hardware kits and the the wheel cylinders were reasonably priced.



I am out to work on the clean-up---one side at a time. I also have to study the seal replacement online here. Wish me luck.



M. Young

 

[WilsonF]

If after 12. 5 years of use you have lots of shoe left it might be that they are not self adjusting, a problem on many of these trucks, you may be stopping w/front brakes only.

Floyd

 

[CCiatteo]

If after 12. 5 years of use you have lots of shoe left it might be that they are not self adjusting, a problem on many of these trucks, you may be stopping w/front brakes only.



Floyd

I agree with this. If your rear drum brakes are working and adjusted properly they make a dramatic difference in the how well the truck stops. Trouble is, you need to stay on top them because the self adjusters don't seem to work all that well. Couple of clicks is usually all it takes.



The braking is still marginal, but noticeably improved if the rear brakes are adjusted properly.



Chris

 

[fest3er]

... I also have to study the seal replacement online here. Wish me luck.

There are a few threads detailing the seal replacement. It's not too hard. Be careful removing the axle; you should be able to reuse the thin metal gasket between the end flange and the hub. Remember that the seal is around 2-1/2" diameter; it seals the hub, not the axle. (Bring the old seal with you, if needed. ) You'll need the very large thinwall socket for the hub nut. You'll need either patience or the right tool or creativity to remove the old seal. Tighten the hub nut to 140 ft-lb (I used 150 ft-lb) while turning it, then back off 1/8 turn. Don't forget the metal clip that locks the nut in place. The rest of it just takes ordinary mechanical sense.

 

[MAYoung]

Update: Rear Brake Replacement/Rear Axle Seal Replacement



Gentlemen:



Thank you for the excellent suggestions. I am not sure if the rear brakes have been adjusting properly but I have not been a big consumer of front brake pad either. I replaced the first front set of pads around 158,000 miles and they had plenty of material on the pads. At 207,000 miles, the front pads have lots of material left. I have never looked at the rear drum brakes until now. I have never noticed the braking to be "squirrelly" or pulling from one side to another. It may be just that I have adjusted to the truck brakes as they have worn.



I have not noticed any stopping problems with the truck even with the condition of the rear brakes. In driving, and even when pulling a trailer, I work to minimize braking. I keep my speeds down and approach downgrades with appropriate gear changes. One learns very quickly in the Sierra Nevada's not to touch the brakes in the snow. I am sure that many readers face more difficult driving conditions and terrain.



I will monitor the rear brake adjustment. The only real thing that I have noticed about the rear brakes is that the emergency/parking brake pedal travelled further to set the rear brakes. The Dodge factory service manual suggests that the rear brakes be checked/replaced in order to do a proper adjustment. It may also be that the cables have stretched with time.



I will press on and advise of progress. Right now the driver side rear parts are soaking in solvent.



Thanks again.



M. Young

Fair Oaks, California

 

[MAYoung]

Question:



The Dodge factory service manual for 1998. 5 trucks list various axles for its trucks. It appears that the rear axles are listed as 248, 267 and 286 Rear Beam-design Iron (RBI) axles. They also list a 9 1/4 Rear Axle. Also include are the front axles, I assume of 216 and 248 Front Beam-design Iron (FBI) axles.



Question: Which axle number applies to my 1998. 5 4x4 2500? I read about the Dana 80 being the axle for the rear. Which Dodge FSM number applies to which?



Thanks in advance.



M. Young



Post Script: The Dana 80 H is the 286 Rear-Beam Iron (FBI) axel on the 1998. 5 Dodge 2500 4x4 CTD.

 

[SMorneau]

I am not sure what type of lock you have to fix your wheel bearing. But you may want to upgrade to a better lock.

I finally got smart and started buying a hardware kit for about $6 every time I do a brake job. It saved me on the wife's Dakota as her springs were shot.

The metal axle flange gasket should be reusable.

Seals are easy but it's always good to search her if you are in doubt. Good luck.

 

[MAYoung]

Rear Drum Brake Maintenance

Tonight's Update--Saturday, February 12, 2011



Gentlemen:



My father got out of the U. S. Navy in 1946 after 6 years of submairne duty. The last task that he had as a forward topedoman was to help decomission the USS Loggerhead at Mare Island Shipyard (Vallejo, CA). Part of the task was to leave the boat spotless while storing away only the requisite amount of on-board tools.



The crew collected far more than the requisitioned tools while in service so for the most part, extra wrenches, pliers, hammers, etc. were placed on the dock where the civilian crews helped themselves to the leftovers. Some of those included the best hand tools going namely verly long, thin and strong box and open-end wrenches of assorted sized but lots of 3/8, 7/16, 1/2 and 9/16 inch tools. They were and remain great tools--even 66 years after the end of WWII.



Right now those tools are in my fathers shop and many have disappeared or loaned out never to be returned. I wish I had a pair of 3/8 and 1/2 inch wrenches tonight. They would have been perfect for working on these brakes.



I may be lacking WWII vintage tools but I do have something my father could not even dream of in 1946--a digital camera. I took lots of pictures so I will try to post the project as best as I can. I hope that I can correctly add comments next to the pictures.



Part I: Parts



The two pictures is that of the Raybestos brake shoes. These brake shoes cost about $105. 00 before tax. In the second picture of the brake shoes, please not that the left (front or secondary) shoe has a thinner liner than the right (back or primary) shoe. A number of submitters have noted problems of mixing up the primary and secondary shoes upon installation. Needless to say that the wheel with the two thicker (primary shoes) will tend to set up or grab before the other wheel even makes contact. Problems are encountered with also placing the thicker shoe on the "front" of the wheel as opposed to the "rear" of the wheel.



The third and fourth pictures are of the hub oil seal and wheel cylinder. Oil seal was about $18. 15 out the door and the cylinder was less than $10. 00 each from NAPA.



The fifth is the spring kit. Spring kit was less than $5. 00. From NAPA autoparts.



I wish that I could add comments directly next to each picture but I do not see the feature in the forums section.

 

[MAYoung]

Rear Drum Brake Maintenance

Tonight's Update: February 12, 2011 (Continued)



Gentlemen:



Just a few more photos of tonight's progress:



The first photo is that of the brake shoes and mechanisms before disassembly and cleaning. It was a nasty, dirty mess to clean up. The second photo is after first cleaning. The third photo is that of the final cleaning along with installing the new wheel cylinder. The wheel cylinder install went smoothly but I sure wish that I had that long 3/8 and 1/2 inch wrenches.



The last two photos are that of the machined drum and the hub nut socket that I purchased from NAPA for about $16. 00.



Have to stop for the night. I need some high temp grease before I install the new shoes.



M. Young

 

[MAYoung]

Rear Drum Brake Maintenance

Update: Driver Side Brake Installation, February 13, 2011 (Sunday)



Gentlemen:



I have completed the installation of the driver's side rear brake shoes. A picture is attached.



I have also attached another photo to ask some questions. The first has to do with the lower shoe spring. The kit from Carlson has a blue spring that is just a clip on spring. It is easy to install. The factory spring has an clip extension that presses against the brake plate. I assume that this is to assist the spring from coming in contact with the adjustment star wheel. Any ideas?



The second questiion has to do with the retainer springs. The old retainer springs were of the same length and coil. The kit from Carlson has a long spring and a short spring. I took the long (green) spring and placed it on the shoe without the adjustment lever thinking that it has a greater distance to "travel" to hold the shoe in place. I placed the shorter spring on the shoe with the adjustment lever. Am I correct?



The third question has to do with the clearance between the shoes and drum. How much is the correct adjustment? A few thousanths?



Thank you in advance.



M. Young

 

[MAYoung]

Rear Drum Brake Maintenance/Hub Seal Replacement

Update: Monday, February 14, 2011



Gentlemen:



The rear brakes have been installed on both sides of the truck. Since I forgot to install the wave washer on the parking brake lever, I had to remove that side to get it right but what the heck, I needed the practice. The passenger side went on more rapidly. I slid the drums on, bled the brakes (with the assistance of my daughter) and proceeded to prepare for the hub seal replacement on the driver side.



I started by jacking up the driver side of the truck to avoid all of the gear oil from leaving the axel. I then proceeded to figure out how to remove the eight bolts at the end of the axle flange. They were secure with either red RTV or Loctite. The next step was removing the lock wedge from the axle and I finally figured out that you just take a pair of pliers and pull it straight out. The nut came off easily using the 2-9/16" thin walled socket pictured above.



The drum became sticky on the hub againso rather than fight it, I just carefully removed the hub and drum together. I placed the hub on some soft plastic and tapped the hub off the drum. Mechanical inspiration! (I hope. )



Now for the hard part--how to remove the seal. The size of it definately calls for a special tool but in I decided to try and tap it out from "behind" by taking a hardwood stick and tapping on the bearing behind the seal. The seal came out but I also managed to damage the bearing in the process. (Bearing number 4T-28682 NTN). That seal was not planning to leave that hub. It was sealed in place by red RTV sealant and did not want to move. Dodge describes a similar approach in the factory service manual but they want you to use a circular tool with handle to tap it out. Lesson learned.



First thing tomorrow I am off to find that bearing. I hope I do not do any further damage. I want to get this truck on the road.



M. Young



P. S. Attaced are photos of the brakes before the drum install.

 

[MAYoung]

Rear Drum Brake Maintenance/Hub Seal Replacement

Update: Tuesday, Februrary 15, 2011



Gentlemen:



The truck is running and moving under its own power. It was back together about 1:00PM PST and produced no extreme surprises. I am debating the "feel" of the brakes but since it has been so long since I felt new rears in a truck, I will make it a question in a separate post.



Attached are four photos: The first is of the front of the hub removed from the truck. The second is the back of the hub where the seal goes. The third photo is the brake installation on the riight rear passenger side. The final photo is of the axle removed from the truck.



Brake Installation: The final drum placement awaited the installation of the new hub seal along with the hub. Once those where complete, it was a matter of putting the drums back on along with the tires. I bled the brakes one more time and except for being a little dirty, I saw now air coming from the system. The brakes were firm without the engine on but became a bit soft upon start-up of the diesel. I am not sure what that mean but I will explore in greater detail.



I proceeded to move the truck backwards and forwards about 9 time while coming to a full stop in each direction (per Dodge Factory Service Manual). I think I feel the rear brakes engaging and stopping the truck in the process. The truck stops fine.



Hub Bearing/Seal Installation: This was harder and easier than I anticipated. Harder given the damage to the bearing while getting the seal out. Easier in that everything seemed to go together better than the sheer size of the parts would dictate. I placed the new bearing ($32. 00 including tax from NAPA) into the hub and "pre-lubed" the bearing. I then tapped in the seal, with a little red RTV sealant along edge, into the back of the hub. I actually used a large round hole saw bit (back side only) and tapped it into the hub. It was tight but went in evenly.



With the hub ready to install, I lubricated the axle and placed the outer bearing into the hub. I carefully slipped the assembly on to the axle and it went on easily. I then took the take axle nut and screwed it on and using a torque wrench, torqued it to 120 ft. lbs and then backed it off 1/8 inch. I checked for the spin on the hub and it spun with a little resistance but still moved freely by hand. I then checked for any play in the hub and did not notice any. (Dodge says that . 0001 to . 0010 is allowable. ) I installed the nut lock by tapping it into the nut.



The next step was to place the axle into the housing. I also lubed this up with a little gear oil and carefully slid it into the housing. It went in smoothly with only a little twist of the axle to allow it to slip into the differential. The last step was to screw in the 8 bolts for the hub, torque them to 90 ft. lbs. and then install the tires.



I will comment further on the overall project a little later.



M. Young

Fair Oaks, CA



P. S. Thank you to everyone for your assitance and advice.

 

[MAYoung]

Rear Drum Brake Maintenance/Hub Seal Replacement

General Comments As To Techniques and Methods



I am limited in my mechanical abilities so I wish for my comments to be a benefit to other "shade-tree mechanics. " Consequently, some of my techniques can be improved upon. If you can suggest better methods, please feel free to post a comment.



I am going to post this commentary over the next several days so hopefully I will be able to remember the most troublesome details.



Project Preperation: Here is a list of the items that I found helpful in the project:



1) Get a box of nitrile gloves--a box of 100 gloves (50 pairs) will run anywhere from $10-$15. It was well worth the expense since it can be a very messy job. (I could even take the gloves off and use the digital camera to take pictures!)



2) Get a decent pair of jack stands and a good jack. I tend to scrape by with these less than $100 jacks and if you do any volume of vehicle repair--get a decent one. The cheaper ones can be terrible and dangerous with poor handle/jack performance. You want a jack that can be stick deep under the vehicle and function with very little handle travel. You also want good control upon realease of pressure. (I see that Costco has a jack that their tire shops use and they seem to work reasonably well. )



3) I completed this job without buying a single brake tool except for the 2-9/16" socket for the hub nut removal. I used a pair of 5" vice grips and was able to remove and replace all springs and hold down plates. I do not recommend this if you do this for a living. The vice grips worked perfectly for the retainer pins and springs. The primary, secondary and shoe springs took a bit of effort but I did it! Some basic tools are available from $8-$25. Kragen or Harbour Freight Tools have a selection of some basic tools. You decide.



4) Buy a gallon of solvent/paint thinner and 2-3 cans of brake cleaner. You will need the supplies. Throw in a good roll of the blue paper shop towels. I went through a whole roll.



5) Find a pair of 4x4 or 4x6 blocks about 1 foot long. They just come in handy. If you have access to some hardwood scraps, grab them. They are helpful for tapping items without destroying the item (usually).



6) General shop tools but not a whole lot. A good 1/2" breaker bar and ratchet. Deep soocket sizes of 15/16, 1/2, 3/8 inches. A good torque wrench. A few screw drivers both large and small (for the small e-clips holding the parking brake lever). A nice and long 3/8 and 10mm wrench for bleeding the brakes would be handy. A 20 oz. hammer and a 2-3 lb hammer is nice and useful. Pliers are also helpful.



7) Find some pieces of cardboard and two oil catch pans. Helps keep the mess under control.



8) A shop light that you can take with you to exactly where you are working. The more light the better but keep it small enough to work into tight spaces.



9) A penetrant of your choice. Lots of rust held parts in these work spaces. Some people rave about PB Blaster. I have never tried the product so I do not know.



10) Something soft to kneel upon. I used old towels folded in quarters.



11) Compressed air if you have it. I tend to avoid using compressed air on brakes but it is handy or other things.



12) A flat, hard spot to work on. Concrete is best. I worked inside of my garage--tight but doable.



13) A digital camera!!!! I think this was my number one tool in the aid of doing this project. I took a picture of everything before I took it apart. What a lifesaver! I kept referring to the pictures because the Dodge Factory Service Manual (FSM) was a little bit different or incomplete. Very critical to putting the brakes back together again.



Drum and Brake Removal



Two things stand out in the process of removing the drum and brake components: The difficulty in removing the right rear drum and the mess of the "sludge" covering the left rear. The solution to the first problem is following the advice of other threads as to removing the drum easily and the second problem requires mostly time and elbow grease.



I will list the sequence of tasks as I performed them:



1) Remove hub caps and jack up the rear axle onto two jack stands. Loosen lug nuts prior to jacking unless you have an impact wrench.



2) Remove tires.



3) Remove drums. I used a small hardwood block to tap the rear of the drum from back side of the brake plate. Be sure to rotate the drum as you tap. Penetrant fluid can also help.



4) TAKE A DIGITAL PICTURE OF YOUR BRAKE HARDWARE BEFORE YOU DISASSEMBLE YOUR BRAKES! I cannot believe how many times I went back to those pictures. Take a picture of both sides as they will be different. If you do brakes for a living, you can probably do this in your sleep. But if you only do it once every several years, a picture is truly worth a thousand words.



5) Remove the small e-clip that hold the parking brake lever onto the brake shoe. You will need a small screw driver to do this but it comes right off.



6) Remove the primary spring (the big orange one) followed by the secondary spring (the smaller blue one). You can then remove the large adjustment spring from the anchor pin (the main "stud" at the top of the shoe assembly). Then remove the retainig clips and springs from the pins. I did this with a 5" vise-grips and simply clamped on the circular retaining ring as I reached behind the brake plate and rotated the pin until it unlocked. It was truly painless. I also used the small vice grips to remove all springs. A brake tool would have been nice but if you are willing to apply some "beef" to the spring removal, it can be done.



7) The whole set of brake hardward should drop from the brake plate. Be sure to catch all the parts in a pan. Disassemble the bottom of the brake shoes by removing the shoe spring (the spring holding the bottom of the shoes together.



8) Support the emergency brake lever and tie against the brake plate.



9) Clean and inspect all parts and brake plate components. If in doubt about a component, just buy a new one since the kits are relatively cheap in the sceme of the entire project.



More on the assembly tomorrow.

 

[HEMI®Dart]

Good Write-up....

How do you like the General Mistake :-laf wheel cylinders? I was sweating bullets removing the brake lines from Dodge 3500 cylinders for fear I was going to twist of the line.



At first I noticed they were real grabby when moisture collected in the drums. But now after they "settled in" no more problems.



No noticeable increased pedal travel either. It seems like it takes 20% less pedal pressure to stop. A marked difference.



I had I panic stop the other day. The rear ABS performed great.



I have found the automatic adjusters don't work, even after a new brake job. I have tried several different ways. I hand adjust them.



I had the rear drums turned the first brake job I did on the truck. Within a month they warped. I always just get new ones. About $62, 2 year warranty.



Did you put a little grease on the backing plate where the shoes rub? Not that it makes much difference.



On the primary(orange) spring, I believe Ma Mopar wants us the rebend after is over the anchor it so as the long straight part of the spring are also in line w/ each other. Wish I had and old spring to show you.

 

[MAYoung]

Rear Drum Brake/Hub Maintenance

Update: Thursday, February 17, 2011



Gentlemen:



I just finished sealing up the rear differential cover. I managed to drop a plastic cap for the gear oil container into the differential so I suddenly found myself changing the gear oil. Biggest task was getting all the rust off the cover... nasty job. I sealed it up with Permatex RTV Gear Cover Sealant and torqued all ten bolts to 30 ft. lbs. I will add 5 quarts of Valvoline 75W-140W gear oil plus 8 oz. of Chrysler friction modifier. It needed changing anyway and who knows what I would find.



I am still wrestling with getting the air from the brake lines so the pedal is still a bit spongy. I will work on it more tomorrow after the gear oil is added to the differential.



For Mr. HEMIrDart: I think I feel the GM wheel cylinders making a difference. Since the automatic adjusters seemed to be AWOL, I have no idea how long I have been without rear brakes. Since the parking brake functioned, I assumed the rear brakes were working... . WRONG!



I used white lithium grease on the contact points of the brake plate along with the anchor point at the top of the assembly.



I will report back more once I get all the air out of the system. I think it is a human issue, not a truck one.



Regards,



M. Young

 

[HEMI®Dart]

Update: Thursday, February 17, 2011



I am still wrestling with getting the air from the brake lines so the pedal is still a bit spongy. I will work on it more tomorrow after the gear oil is added to the differential.



M. Young

Suck out Master Cylinder via turkey baster. Wipe clean. Refill. Install SpeedBleeders, clear hose that attaches to the bleeder (saves a mess), a jar to submurse the hose in, 2 quarts of the best brake fluid you can find. Push brake pedal with hand to the floor. Repeat 9-10-11 times. Check the M/C reserviour. Refill if nessary. Keep pumping untill new fluid comes the cylinders. Just do the rears. Start w/ right rear.



I have done this several times to the whole hydraulic system. I was never able to eliminate minor spongyness.



PS: If you have done this, I didn't mean to insult your intelligence.

 

[MAYoung]

Rear Drum Brake/Hub Maintenance

Dear Mr. HEMIrDart:



Speed Bleeders? This is the first time that I have heard of the product and what an excellent suggestion! I will definitely check them out. Looks like they can be had for about $20 a pair. I like the concept but I may still want to have a person to push the brake pedal so one could monitor air coming or not coming through the bleed hose. Still, a great product to cut down on accidentally introducing air into the system.



The rest of your suggestions are very close to the Dodge factory service manual.



Given my approach to fixing trucks, it is highly unlikely that you would be able to insult my intelligence. There is just too little grey matter present to be fazed by much.



Thanks again.



M. Young

 

[MAYoung]

Rear Drum Brake/Hub Maintenance

Update: Saturday, February 19, 2011 7:17 PM PST



Gentlemen:



Before I could move the truck to test the brakes, I had to first drain the rear differential, reseal the cover and fill with gear lube. I was able to finish this task earlier in the day.



Although the rear gear oil had about 50,000 miles in service, I was going to wait to change the oil for a few weeks from now. This task was put on fast-forward when I dropped a small plastic cap in to the differential as I was attempting to top-off the case.



Draining was simple--no surprises. I think the hardest thing about the task was cleaning the old sealant from the cover and case. Getting the years of rust off of the cover was a pain. I went and spent $8. 00 on a Permatex Gear Oil sealant--a much stiffer product than regular RTV sealant. (I originally thought the tube was past its expiration date. ) I let it cure overnight.



I replaced the gear oil with Valvoline 85W-140W. In my discussion with the local Dodge parts department, they generally use the higher range viscosity if any towing is involved. They also said that the newest trucks operate on full synthetic and are changed every 30,000 miles--a costly proposition. (Since I do not have a new truck, I have no idea if this is required by the factory. )



Refilling was time consuming--the gear oil flows so slowly. I also added the Chrysler friction modifier--4 oz. for now with another 4 oz. to follow. The 5. 05 quarts fills the differential right to the bottom of the fill hole.



Attached are a few pictures of the task and product. Note some of the wear, tear and rust. Although California is a relatively rust free environment, they do use plenty of salt and sand on the trans-Sierra highways. The truck has spent a lot of miles in the mountains, in the winter. Clean-up is time consuming with more to come.



I have also included a picture of the height sensing proportioning valve. As the bed is loaded, the hydraulic valve pressure is increased to the rear wheels. I have no idea if this device is working. Also note a small hole in the tail pipe above the black hose. More repair work to undertake.



M. Young

 

[MAYoung]

Rear Drum Brake/Hub Maintenance

Update: Monday, February 21, 2011, 4:15 AM PST



Gentlemen:



I bled the brakes for the fourth and final time and the rears appear to be operating as advertised. Since it may have been years since I had truly functioning rear brakes, the difference is very noticeable--sort of like having trailer brakes but only on your truck.



I am going to raise the rear one last time for this project and check the spin of the tires. The test drive of the truck produced no unusual noises, smells or heat. The truck stops smoothly with a small amount of pedal travel.



Thank you for your assistance. I am moving on to the front brakes after I change the spring in the FASS fuel pump. (Still looking for a psi improvement in the DDRP 02. ) I have lots of other things to repairs so I will advise of any difficulties as I proceed.



Regards,



M. Young

Fair Oaks, CA