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Rear Brake Drum Removal ...Do I need a bigger Hammer?

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1999 six speed

Bombed my Heater Grid Plug!

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OK..... what is the *^%%#*^ trick to getting off the rear drums? I sprayed the center hub with penetrating oil and whacked on it a couple times but it wont budge. Any advice??
 
Removing Rear Drums

You can do a search for a post about this but the short story was to raise the back end off the ground, remove wheels/tires, fire up Cummins, put in gear then hit the brakes. Sometimes if forward doesn't work then try reverse.
 
I had the same difficulity with mine. I took a small hammer,w-d 40 and lightly tapped it (while turning the wheel). It took several minuites to get it to come off... . but it did.



Then I painted the drums to keep this from happening again.



Frank
 
Put her up on jackstands, remove the wheels, then fire up the engine. Usually one trip to drive then reverse will have both loose. Sure saves a lot of cussing.
 
After I take the tire off, I usually take a large screwdriver, and pry gently against the back plate, when the tension is just right, I tap it a little with a large copper hammer. I tap on it toward the axle, maybe in the 10 o'clock position first, then the move to the 2 o'clock side, by then, I can just pull it off.
 
If you use the jack it up-forward/ reverse method... ... Please use jack stands under the vehicle!

We'd like you to still be around to post later. ;)
 
Might I suggest checking the drums after each stop. If your brakes are out of adjustment and the drum rolls off, you could lose alot of brake fluid on the next stab at the brake peddle just as the drum makes it's exit before you have a chance to hear it ringing on the driveway. I almost did this with the right side on my previous improperly braked truck. ;)
 
<blockquote><small>illflem wrote

<b>Make sure it's not in 4WD also. </b></font></blockquote>

ROFLAMO

SOFLAMO

GFBLMAO



Bill;

<em>That</em> remark has to go in the Hall of Fame!



-John
 
BRAKE DRUM REMOVAL

MY BRAKE DRUMS WOULD NOT BUDGE ON MY TRUCK. A FRIEND TOOK AN ACETYLENE TORCH AND SLOWLY HEATED THE FACE OF THE DRUM AROUND THE LUG BOLTS AND THEY CAME LOOSE WITHOUT ANY POUNDING, WAS REAL EASY:p :D ;)
 
A little Liquid Wrench around the middle to get it wet, a little heat wrench to dry it off and a couple solid raps with the BFH. ;)



Don't hit the studs, they will come out. :eek:
 
I have retaining lock washers on mine (those pesky things that slide on easy but must be mangled/destroyed to remove), what is the reason for that? I need to pop my drums off for a brake check since I haven't done it yet (51,200 miles now).



Vaughn
 
Vaughn,



My guess is that they are there for the assembly line. As the truck travels down the line without tires/wheels, the retainers keep the drums from falling off. No rust build-up yet to keep them seized on. :D
 
So much for getting the drums off--It won't hurt to file the center hole of the drum lightly and use some antiseize so this doesn't happen again. ---Sam
 
Up in the air, on stands forward brake then reverse brake. Best method no ringing in the ears from beating the drum, no damaged studs from arms tiring of the swinging hammer and best of all no damaged parts I. E. Brake plates or warped drums.



It's quicker, painless and works every time. Heck if your pulling both drums, you've gotta take off both tires anyway might as well put her on stands. MHO Works for me ever oil change. I've learened to look at the axel seals every so often $75 for shoes ain't cheaper than $15 for a seal.
 
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