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Rear Brake Drums/Hubs

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Transmission Leaking near shifter input

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I've been reading for a while now but this is my first posting so be gentle... .



I've searched the archive but can't find a direct reference to my question.



Doing a brake job on our '93 4x4 with a Dana 60 and 12x2. 5" brakes and the drums are shot. This is my first time working with a heavy duty axle and I can't figure out how to split the hub where the bearings are from the brake drum itself. The hub and drum are very crusty and rusty and I can't find where to separate them. I have the reprint of the FSM but I can't find a reference to it at all.



Also, the FSM refers to grease for the rear bearings but when I pulled the axle shaft, gear lube came out and both inner and outer bearings appear to be lubed with the gear oil and not grease.



Any pointers are appreciated.



Kevin
 
You have to knock the studs out. They go through the brake drum into the hub. The drum is on the backside of the hub. You do grease the rear wheel bearings just like the front to ensure they are lubricated right after you service them. Eventually the gear oil washes the grease out, but that's normal.
 
It may require a BFH (Big Freaking Hammer) to seperate the drums from the hubs, even after driving the lug studs out. You are on the right track, though.



This would be a great time to upgrade to 3" shoes- direct bolt in fit. Why they offered 2-1/2" shoes with the standard Mopar brakes is beyond me.



Daniel
 
You could cheat and use a hydraulic press. And this would be a good time to upgrade to 9/16 studs if you haul heavy loads a lot.
 
This would be a good time to convert to disc brakes. My 98 12v was just converted with the EGR Kit. The job turned out super. Never thought it would make such a big difference. The EGR Kit is quality all the way. If it were to save you one Fender Bender it, in my opinion would be more than worth the cost.
 
I need to pull my rear drums off and do some general brake inspection/replacement. How do I know which brakes I have? The napa website lists a bunch of different options on what I may have. 11", 12", 2. 5" or 3" wide etc etc. Do I simply measure?



Also... the 3" shoes are a direct bolt on? And what about the 9/16" studs? Those are just simple installs?
 
HTML:
different options on what I may have. 11", 12", 2. 5" or 3" wide etc etc. Do I simply measure



I am chuckling about this :-laf... my son owns a repair shop. When he did my brakes he had to order every possibility that was covered in the parts book at Carquest (where he buys most of his parts) then return what didn't match up. :-laf

Otherwise the lift gets tied up for too many days waiting for the right stuff.



On my truck Dodge didn't use what they were supposed to going by the axle code numbers like it should work.
 
Yeah, anytime you're doing any job with alternate parts it pays to just get all of the possibilities and return the stuff that doesn't fit. Ford is generally the worst about that, but it can happen with Dodge.
 
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