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2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Rear Brake Job on an '01

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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) fuel gauge sending unit

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Not sure this is the right forum to ask this or not but my friend has an '01 that needs a rear brake job and wants to know if he has to pull the axles to do it. I never had to do a rear brake job on my '96 and I've since moved on to an '03 so I have no experience with rear brakes.



Thanks for the help.

TJ

Reno
 
Is it disc or drum brakes in the rear? They switched over to disc brakes mid-year. For drums, you don't have to pull the axles, you can get to everything you need by pulling the drum off. Discs, I'll leave that to someone who has them.
 
Thanks. His truck has drums but he's tried various ways to get it off short of a torch. Any suggestions?



Thanks again.

TJ
 
I've heard a few methods.



1. Soak the base of the wheel studs with a good coat of penetrating oil.

2. Make sure the brakes are backed off the drums. If they're tight, it'll make pulling the drum harder. And don't forget to release the parking brake before trying to pull the drums (Don't ask me why I remembered to include this one. :{ )

3. Choose your favorite BFH and work your way around the outer ring.



If those fail, more drastic measures are called for.



4. Jack up the rear of the truck and secure it on jackstands. Pull the rear wheels. Thread a couple of the lugnuts back onto the studs (not tight, just so they're caught). Then fire up the truck and put it in gear to get the back drums spinning and hit the brakes a few times. This usually helps to loosen them up. And the lugnuts are on there to keep the drums from flying off.



5. You can probably use some well placed heat to loosen things up. (Don't get crazy with it though. glowing = crazy :-laf )



6. C4 explosives. :D
 
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Yikes. I'm new here but have done brake jobs on 3/4 and 1 tons before and would suggest you take the torch away from your friend.

You gotta pull the axles and back the nut off to get the brake drum off. Not the same as a 1/2 ton rig.

I'm sure many here will help you but I just wanted to jump in before he broke something.



Good luck... ... ... John
 
You don't have to remove the axle to pull the drum. The drum just slips over the wheel studs, and is only secured on by the lugnuts securing the wheel. From the factory there are small retaining clips on 3 of the studs, but after the first time removing the drums, no one ever puts them back on.
 
Point #4 above is the easiest way IMO. I recently upgraded to the rear GM 1-ton cylinders on my 2001 w/ drums. I jacked it up in the rear, put it on jackstands, took off all 8 lug-nuts and then put one back on on each side with the wheels/tires still mounted. Then started it up and put it in gear. Once I was going just a bit, I hit the brakes hard. Did it again a couple times as only one side broke loose. After a few more times, both drums broke loose. Took off the loose lug nuts on both sides, the wheels/tires and the drums pulled right off. No banging, heating, or cursing.



Steve
 
AggieJustin said:
And don't forget to release the parking brake before trying to pull the drums (Don't ask me why I remembered to include this one. :{ )



I about pee'd myself laughing when I read this. I've done enough rear brakes to know better, but this little step I forgot about. I worked on the drivers side for a good 2 hours before getting out the BFH. It got a good beating let me tell you, before the GIRLFRIEND came outside and dared to ask, "Did you take the emergency brake off?'' :eek:
 
Thomas said:
Ditto. Leave the axles alone.



Wow! really? I humbly stand corrected and am thrilled. Sounds like Dodge has a better idea. I use to have to pull the axles on my 1 ton Chevy and it use to drive me nuts. What a pain just to check your brake shoes.
 
I had mine jacked up, wheel off. Grabbed ahold of the brake drum and when it wouldn't budge, my first thought was "Oh great, it's going to be one of those days". Then after staring at it a second and working through my options, I luckily remembered the parking brake.
 
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