REAR BRAKE LINE ISSUE - LEAKING & NO REAR BRAKES

[Michaelsloft]

Traveling from Ohio to Indiana experienced pedal getting soft on a couple of stops and suddenly significant loss in braking and pedal to the bottom of travel.
Driving carefully for almost 400 miles and 24 ounces of additional brake fluid I was able to get to my destination.
First brake issue with the 1999 in my signature.
Only had time to inspect for a few moments and appears to be the main rear line running along the inside of the frame rail and is leaking about half way down the distance of the fuel tank. Tried to keep it oiled, must have rusted and has limited access in this area.
What is the best solution for a repair?
I have a good set of tools with me but no specialty brake/plumbing tools.
Any and all suggestions/experiences will be appreciated.

Michael

 

[jgillott]

Do you have room to splice in a section for a temporary repair?

If not, I think that line can be purchased as an assembly. I don't have a part # for you though.

 

[Michaelsloft]

Do you have room to splice in a section for a temporary repair?

If not, I think that line can be purchased as an assembly. I don't have a part # for you though.

No room to splice in a section for a temporary repair.
I would like to go ahead and replace the line as an assembly and if anyone has a part # available it would be great.
I do have a pressure brake bleeder with me!
Is this a dealer only part?

 

[DavidC]

From what I understand this is what you want. Of course you would need a tubing bender and flaring tool.
https://smile.amazon.com/Copper-Nickel-Brake-Line-CN-316/dp/B00651OAVS

 

[BigPapa]

Cut and flare it where you can get to it, get a union and a new line that's long enough to go to the junction block. You may have to drop the tank. Much easier and cheaper than trying to find a complete new line. I doubt it's even available anywhere.

The Copper Nickel line is available in a roll if you want a complete line. If you need to, run it around the tank until you can get home and do it right.

Trying to "drive carefully" with no rear brakes is just asking for trouble. You aren't towing, are you?

 

[Michaelsloft]

Fortunately not towing and don't have to drive anywhere until it is repaired!
Drove "carefully" during the late night hours with light traffic!
Not going to take any chances and was thankful to get to my destination safely.
Thanks for posting the reply.

 

[BillBaker]

Had this happen to my truck while parked on a very steep hill at a cemetery in West Virginia while attending a funeral. Started truck up to leave and pedal went right to the floor and that line has rusted and broke. Everybody above answered correctly.

 

[mwilson]

Just to update, if I have done everything as I should this line shows still available from RAM. List is $50.00.

Now this is a manual truck. While waiting for him to obtain his vin I tried one of my pet vin numbers for a '98 quad cab with an automatic and no joy.

So some are still available and some not. Prices were fair on the ones RAM did stock, for example the long kinky one that goes across the front crossmember from left side junction block to right side brake hose was in the $60.00 range. After making a couple of those over the years I believe I would pay the price in that case and get an OEM version and fluid film the crap out of it.

 

[Michaelsloft]

Just to update, if I have done everything as I should this line shows still available from RAM. List is $50.00.

Now this is a manual truck. While waiting for him to obtain his vin I tried one of my pet vin numbers for a '98 quad cab with an automatic and no joy.

So some are still available and some not. Prices were fair on the ones RAM did stock, for example the long kinky one that goes across the front crossmember from left side junction block to right side brake hose was in the $60.00 range. After making a couple of those over the years I believe I would pay the price in that case and get an OEM version and fluid film the crap out of it.

I'm going to go with the OEM and fluid film the crap out of it! I thought I had enough oil on this one but missed a spot or two behind the fuel tank!
Thanks again!

 

[jgillott]

Just to update, if I have done everything as I should this line shows still available from RAM. List is $50.00.

Now this is a manual truck. While waiting for him to obtain his vin I tried one of my pet vin numbers for a '98 quad cab with an automatic and no joy.

So some are still available and some not. Prices were fair on the ones RAM did stock, for example the long kinky one that goes across the front crossmember from left side junction block to right side brake hose was in the $60.00 range. After making a couple of those over the years I believe I would pay the price in that case and get an OEM version and fluid film the crap out of it.

Thanks for looking into it for him Mike. I knew you were the guy to find it if it is out there.

 

[mwilson]

Happy to lend a hand.

Where it shows "Available" he should be able to score it from a local dealer who will have to order it.......I can't see the RAM PDC stock though so there is a slight chance of failure....

 

[fest3er]

I would suggest you mostly empty the fuel tank and drop it (I used an ATV lift with mine about half full and it worked well enough; but less fuel would be better). Then inspect everything on top of the tank and all fuel and brake lines. If one line rusted through, you can be fairly sure that more stuff is rusted under there.

 

[Michaelsloft]

I would suggest you mostly empty the fuel tank and drop it (I used an ATV lift with mine about half full and it worked well enough; but less fuel would be better). Then inspect everything on top of the tank and all fuel and brake lines. If one line rusted through, you can be fairly sure that more stuff is rusted under there.

Never have dropped the tank. Not going to be fun, but it needs to be done and a good time to inspect everything.

 

[RKula]

I had that same rusted-thru brake line on my 1996 Ram 2500 a few years ago. I repaired it with the copper-nickel tubing which is a pleasure to work with.
I read a post from another member who suggested supporting the tank (mine was about one-quarter full) with jacks, remove the support straps and lower the tank a few inches onto some wood blocking. Then he suggested using a crow bar to move the tank over toward the drive shaft. That worked like a charm but clearances were tight. I did not remove either the fuel supply or return lines or the electrical connector. I did remove the tank end of the fuel fill hose.

 

[Michaelsloft]

I had that same rusted-thru brake line on my 1996 Ram 2500 a few years ago. I repaired it with the copper-nickel tubing which is a pleasure to work with.
I read a post from another member who suggested supporting the tank (mine was about one-quarter full) with jacks, remove the support straps and lower the tank a few inches onto some wood blocking. Then he suggested using a crow bar to move the tank over toward the drive shaft. That worked like a charm but clearances were tight. I did not remove either the fuel supply or return lines or the electrical connector. I did remove the tank end of the fuel fill hose.

Good ideas!
Hearing many good things about the copper-nickel.
Thank you.

 

[Joe Mc]

Here's what I did, unfortunately twice. Both times I cleaned line at rusted area taped a paint pen to a long screwdriver and marked a line on both sides of rusted area. Removed line nuts on back and front. Pulled the line out from the front, don't worry if the line breaks = remember paint lines... Once out (both times line broke while removing) use old line as a template to bend new, you can borrow tools from most any parts house = bender & double flair tool, as you bend new line wire tie it to old one (remember use old as a template) it doesn't have to be perfect just close. Make sure you leave an extra inch or so at each end of new line and... don't forget to place new line nuts on line "before" you make your flairs. Once all bent wrap plastic bag over rear end of line/nut so schmutz doesn't get in. You'll feed line from front to back, it's a RPIA, but can be done, take your time and just get it in place, worry about snapping line into plastic clips after it's been fed through. No the tank doesn't have to come out. Oh, second time...I paid the extra $10.00 for the coil of nickle/cad line. That was over 10 years ago, 1st time I used steel line it only lasted 4 years. Be patient and walk away when things get frustrating. I recommend flushing whole system with dot 3-4 or synthetic fluid. Another tip place a 2" thick piece of wood under brake pedal to prevent master cylinder piston from going too far into an area it's never been before, this will reduce potential for damage/replacing master cylinder. Obviously, you don't need to ask how I know that LOL. Have fun, it's about a 5 beer (2-3 hour) job.

 

[Michaelsloft]

Here's what I did, unfortunately twice. Both times I cleaned line at rusted area taped a paint pen to a long screwdriver and marked a line on both sides of rusted area. Removed line nuts on back and front. Pulled the line out from the front, don't worry if the line breaks = remember paint lines... Once out (both times line broke while removing) use old line as a template to bend new, you can borrow tools from most any parts house = bender & double flair tool, as you bend new line wire tie it to old one (remember use old as a template) it doesn't have to be perfect just close. Make sure you leave an extra inch or so at each end of new line and... don't forget to place new line nuts on line "before" you make your flairs. Once all bent wrap plastic bag over rear end of line/nut so schmutz doesn't get in. You'll feed line from front to back, it's a RPIA, but can be done, take your time and just get it in place, worry about snapping line into plastic clips after it's been fed through. No the tank doesn't have to come out. Oh, second time...I paid the extra $10.00 for the coil of nickle/cad line. That was over 10 years ago, 1st time I used steel line it only lasted 4 years. Be patient and walk away when things get frustrating. I recommend flushing whole system with dot 3-4 or synthetic fluid. Another tip place a 2" thick piece of wood under brake pedal to prevent master cylinder piston from going too far into an area it's never been before, this will reduce potential for damage/replacing master cylinder. Obviously, you don't need to ask how I know that LOL. Have fun, it's about a 5 beer (2-3 hour) job.

I was thinking it might be possible to feed a new line through between the tank and frame! And I have set aside a piece of wood for the brake pedal! Great idea!
Many good ideas and tips here and thanks for taking the time to Post the process you went through for the repair.

 

[Joe Mc]

Mike, You are most welcome. This place (TDR) is awesome!!! I got my 99 in 05/01 w/75k on it and became a member of the TDR 2 weeks after I got the truck. The knowledge gained and camaraderie between members is well worth the $35/year!!! Member for life/keeping my 99 "for-everrrrrrr...."

 

[Michaelsloft]

Traveling from Ohio to Indiana experienced pedal getting soft on a couple of stops and suddenly significant loss in braking and pedal to the bottom of travel.
Driving carefully for almost 400 miles and 24 ounces of additional brake fluid I was able to get to my destination.
First brake issue with the 1999 in my signature.
Only had time to inspect for a few moments and appears to be the main rear line running along the inside of the frame rail and is leaking about half way down the distance of the fuel tank. Tried to keep it oiled, must have rusted and has limited access in this area.
What is the best solution for a repair?
I have a good set of tools with me but no specialty brake/plumbing tools.
Any and all suggestions/experiences will be appreciated.

Michael

*UPDATE*

Wrapped up the rear brake line repair early last week....evening of the 22 and morning of 23rd. Had a busy week to and wanted to follow -up with the Post.

I decided to go with a complete set of stainless steel brake lines for the truck! Cut to length, bent to fit (slight adjustments required for the rear main line) quality fittings etc! And the overall quality is good!
Flushed the brake system with two quarts of Valvoline Synthetic and the brakes feel the best they have been in more than a decade. The original rear main line had a split that appears to have started from rust due to being held in place by one of the plastic clips holding the line running along the frame between the fuel tank and frame. It was the second clip just before the steel lines end to go to the fuel tank. Small amount of debris had collected on this spot and I mean small....and I thought it was oiled well enough is this area, but no so. Ended up moving the fuel tank out of the way a couple of inches, with the assistance o an ATV lift to access the line along the frame. Original fittings and blocks were all in good condition and installed the new stainless steel lines. Fluid Filmed throughout the area of repair etc.

Just wanted to take a moment to thank everyone that took the time to help, share their experiences and offer helpful tips. While working on the truck I remembered the tips along the way from everyone and it really helped.

Thanks to:

Justin
Mike
David
Scott
BigPapa
Bill
fast3er
RKula
JoeMc

I enjoy the TDR and learn something every time I log on to the site.

Thanks again,

Michael