Rear Brake Pad Replacement?

[snake]

Looking for the BEST way to replace the rear brakes pads. I have search a lot of different ways. {{ Looking to make this job easier }}

Thanks, David

 

[rrausch]

I replaced the front pads and the rear shoes on my '95 2500 when I first got it about 2 years ago. If you need to change the pumpkin oil, now is the time to do that too. If you don't change it, you WILL need to add some, as some oil generally leaks out when you pull the axles.



You'll need a 2--9/16 inch socket to remove what they call the "adjustment nut". The big sockets are easily available at auto parts stores--I think mine cost about $8. Also, you might get some new "nut locks" from the dealer too. I used my old ones, but you have to remove them very carefully not to damage them.

You'll also need 2 new axle shaft seals--go to Napa or Mopar for those.



Once you've got everything, and have a few hours to play, break the lug nuts loose, jack both rear wheels up and put blocks under her and get started.

You'll have to remove the flange nuts on the axle and pull the axles--stand them on their flange side and keep them squeaky clean, (I put garbage bags over mine) as you don't want to introduce dust/dirt into the pumpkin when you reinstall them. Then pull the nut locks and the adj. nut and the drum and take the old shoes off. R&R-ing the shoes is pretty standard. There IS a front shoe and a back shoe. Ask the auto parts guy which is which, I believe the short shoe faces the front, but I'm not real sure right now.



Clean the hub and install the new seal in the hub--I tap mine down evenly with a clean flat piece of 2X material, but a press is better if you have one, and then slide the hub/drum onto the brake assy.

Torque the big adjustment nut to 120-140 ft. lbs. , then back it off 1/8 to 1/3 of a turn to provide about 1 to 10 thousandths end play. Push the nut locks in.



My manual says to install new flange gaskets, but I used the old ones--they weren't torn. If you tore yours when you removed the axles you will need new ones. When you slide the axle in, support it carefully and be careful not to damage the seal in the hub. Torque the 8 flange nuts to 90 ft. lbs. Put the wheels on. Adjust the brakes. Add pumpkin oil. Did I miss anything?

 

[Alaskaskiff]

Unless you have a leaking axle seal I don't see why you would need to pull the axle. Did my brakes without pulling the axle. Just did all the work on the truck. Get a new spring kit for the brakes (NAPA sells them) for about $15 in case one of the springs breaks or has other apparent problems.

 

[Alaskaskiff]

My points were for the rear axle drum brakes.

 

[rrausch]

Andy, I think you might be right... If so I did my axle seals at the same time as a preventative measure. There was some information in the TDR about seal failure and I remember I did 'em at the same time. It's been about 2 years since I did mine. Possible I have forgotten the exact sequence. Also mine is a 2WD, but don't know if that makes any diff. I'll pull a rear drum and take a look this week.

 

[illflem]

Robert, I read your instructions and thought you might scare snake away from his shoe replacement job. No need to pull the axle, just the wheel, drum and shoes. Don't mess with the seal if it isn't leaking.



Replacing the shoes is straight forward, just do one side at a time so you can see where everything goes. A brake spring tool will make life easier. I like to apply anti-seize to the moving parts for lube. Crank the star wheel backwards to loosen before installing the shoes and drum, then use the reverse and stop method to adjust the brakes. The self adjusting feature doesn't work on some rigs so also check manually

 

[Alaskaskiff]

antiseize!

Bill (illflem),



Anything you don't use antiseize for? I myself have the big container. Great stuff!



When putting the drums back on I coat the entire mating surface (the one that rust had previously welded together) with antiseize. Will make dissambly much easier.

 

[illflem]

Andy, I use anti-seize on everything but PVC pipe and Loc-Tited threads! My favorite is the ground lead based type, probably illegal now. It is the only permanent weep free seal I've found for high pressure hydraulic lines.

 

[Alaskaskiff]

Gol darn environmental regs...



I don't have any of the lead based variety, but use the silver stuff . I don't use the copper-based one since my other money pit is a 23 foot aluminum boat (ie. my handle on the board) and since I use antiseize for everything there too, I don't need a 3000 pound self-induced corroding battery. Aluminum +Salt water + Copper = No boat.

 

[Joe G.]

Andy,



When I was fishing we used zinc metal plates and balls to prevent the "battery" effect. In fact, we used zinc balls on the stainless trolling lines to regulate how "hot" they were to increase the catch.

 

[Alaskaskiff]

Joe,



I remember you mentioning that on another post. It goes to that whole idea of some boats catching fish and others that do not. It has a lot to do with their electrical discharge. I have even heard of intentionally putting a small current to the water to attract fish (recreational fishing).



I have zincs on the outboards and the trim tabs. Thinking about adding them to the hull. Also use galvanized cleats. I would change the cleats to aluminum as well, but have been unable to find them in 5086. BTW I do not use the boat as a ground circuit!



One of the reasons I like this board, a little bit of everything and from knowledgeable people at that.

 

[Joe G.]

Yeah, some guys in the fleet had the reputation of being able to catch fish anywhere, even in a bath tub. Other guys could hardly make a living. It took a lot of adjustments to get ours so it would fish right. It was a 46' fiberglas over wood diesel troller. Not just a glass skin. It had 3" of glass over 1" plywood. Lots of aluminum and other metals so it was really hot without the zincs.

 

[Joe G.]

Andy,



Your mail box is full.

 

[Alaskaskiff]

Joe,



Thanx



Just cleaned it out.

 

[**ICEMAN**]

back to brake shoe replacement



no need to pull the axle.

if the brake drum is froze to the hub put 2 lug nuts 3/4 the way back on .

with both rear wheels off the ground and 4x4 shifter in 2H

start the engine and run it in gear and hit the brakes.

run in reverse and hit brakes.

might take a few times but the drums will break loose.

i put 2 nuts 3/4 the way back on because i had a drum fly accross the garage before

 

[rrausch]

Thanks Illflem! Iceman, that sounds like a GREAT way to bust those suckers loose. Yeah, its coming back to me now. I had just got my truck and tried every way known to me to break those babies loose and couldn't. I mean I tried heat, hammers and cussin'! I had just joined the TDR and didn't even know about the site, so I pulled the axles and did it that way. Which was also kinda neat.