2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission rear brake problems... Help!

[C. Harlan]

I just finally figured out the proportioning valve is not at fault, rather, I think it is defective wheel cylinders on the rear drum brakes. Is it ok to go with 1 ton wheel cylinders on a 3/4 ton, or is it too much? I know they work, not very well, because when the weather is humid, and I just get going in the morning, one wheel grabs, and locks, but as soon as you get going, it acts normal and nonexistant. someone help out and chime in!



-Chris-

 

[y-knot]

It is kind of hard to help with the info you gave, so I'll ask some questions. Is that what you have now, the one ton wheel cylinders on your truck? Did you just recently put them on? And did you do a complete brake job then also? There isn't much to go wrong with a wheel cylinder, they on have a body, piston and seals. Are they leaking? Also have you checked to see if the rear shoes are adjusted right? I kind of suspect if you put on the larger wheel cylinders and didn't replace the springs, the old ones are a little to worn to retract the shoes, but it only a hunch.

 

[MDW]

Is it ok to go with 1 ton wheel cylinders on a 3/4 ton.



I did

 

[illflem]

no problem with larger cylinders

1 ton cylinders are a popular upgrade for a 2500. In fact the 3500 cylinders are cheaper than 2500's at most auto parts.



Like y-knot said, need more info.

It's not uncommon for drum brakes to be grabby for the first few stops of the day due to flash rusting that takes place while the vehicle is parked. Problem seems to be worse in humid or rainy weather. Short of oiling your brake shoes there is nothing you can do about.

 

[C. Harlan]

these are the original wheel cylinders, and as far as I know the original brake shoes... yes, they are adjusted properly, as I did, and usually check them frequently. . I go through a set of brake pads every 2 or 3 months, as the last time I did was on 4th of July weekend, and its already time for another set. this is very frustrating and costly... if you need more info let me know...



-Chris-

 

[Tom W]

Call Sam Peterson, 360 357 4958, he can give you the part #'s and good advice. He is known on TDR as the brake expert.

 

[Big E]

There was some discussion a while back about this exact problem.



It seems that the newer friction materials used today (non asbestos) tends to be grabby when a light coating of rust forms on the drums during humid weather. Once you apply the brakes, it gets cleaned off and all goes back to normal.



Here is the thread:www.turbodieselregister.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=798&highlight=rear+brakes

 

[markdixon]

Did you remove the higth sesing rod off the rear and secure the valve towards the bed of the truck thare was a tsb this. holp this helps

 

[MacGreenie]

Rear Brake Cylinder Upgrade

Get the 3500 cylinders... they work much better than stock 2500 model.



Follow TSB on height proportioning valve on rear axle (if equipped) or just disconnect the rod and speed tie lever in the "up" position. This will bias more brake "squeeze" to the rear brakes and drastically improve your braking ability.



I just did this all along with new shoes and drums in the rear and cannot believe how well the truck stops now.



Also fixed a leaking rear wheel axle seal that was "oiling" my right rear brake shoe... much better now with non-oily brake shoes!



Good luck!



MacGreenie

 

[B.G. Smith]

Brakes

If just one wheel is grabbing on start up then works ok you may have a small leak in that wheel, brake fluid or diff. fluid in small amounts will cause the symtoms you describe. bg