2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Rear brake replacement

[jelvington]

Is there anywhere on here that I can find instructions on replacing the rear brake shoes on my 2000 2wd? Thanks for any help.

 

[C Schomer]

Make sure you have a brake spring tool. If you've never done drum brakes before, you might want to draw a pic. of the springs and gadgets. Take it apart and lay out all the pieces, like they came off, will help. Note the difference in lining, too. The primary shoe has shorter lining and goes on the front. Clean the adjuster screws good and I used a TINY bit of syn grease on the threads and on the swivel end. I always mount the shoe with the e-brake arm attached first. Collapse the adj. screw all the way and it is pretty easy to get it between the shoe ends with the bottom center spring already hooked in. Then finish mounting the second shoe and springs. Don't forget to put the e-brake spreader link in there. There's not as many choices for shoes as there are for pads. Pepboys was the only place I could find an upgraded shoe. Mine were #451PG - PG for "premium grade". My oems were semimetallic and even NAPA only had organic. There is core credit on shoes, so take your old ones with, or make two trips. The core charge was only $5. Craig

 

[ProspectorTim]

PLAN on making 2 trips to the parts store, instead of taking the old shoes with you when you go to buy the new ones.



Work on ONE side at a time. That way, you can always go look at the other side if you have any questions about how to put it back together.



If you have a digital camera, take photos of both sides before disassembly.

 

[jelvington]

Thanks for the help. But I guess what I really need to know from looking at the drums, is how do you get the drums off. I have replaced drum brakes before just never on a 3/4 ton. On smaller trucks the drums are easily removed but it looks like there is alot more hardware to be removed on these just to get the drum off and I just want to make sure I get it right. I haven't started the job yet but I'm going to have to asap. Thanks.

 

[KMahnke]

Drums come off with a BIG 'ol Hammer (P. C. ) 4-6 Lb. spray some pb blaster or some type of penetrating oil around where the hub comes through the drum and around the lug nut stud holes--after you take the wheels off of course. If you get lucky, banging around the perimiter of the drum while rotating it will break it loose enpugh to pull it off the hub. If not you will need to use a long drift punch from under the truck to drive the drum off while someone rotates the thing. As a last resort you will have to buy a large socket to remove the bearing retainer nut and pull the axles to get the hub/drum assembly off. Count on a mess with 90wt oil all over and buying new seals and possibly axle flange gaskets if you go this route.



There are premium shoes with lifetime warranty available thru http://www.partsamerica.com/ . Shop by categoriy and enter your truck info. view all parts and you will come up with several options. Can have the stuff shipped to your door or check if in stock at a local vendor.



Good Luck

Kirk



Good luck

 

[jelvington]

That sounds good. I was afraid that I was going to have to take the axles loose. I don't want to have to go that route since I just put the new lube in the rear end. I will try the hammer. Thanks again.

 

[Dane]

Try this

Best way to get the drums off is to jack the truck up in the back and set it on jack stands under the axle.



Pull the wheels and then reinstall one lug nut loosly on the stud.



With the truck in 2wd, run the rear wheels in drive or 2nd gear, then neutral and apply the brakes quickly.



The drums will break loose.



Don't forget the loose lug nut to keep the drums from rolling down the street

 

[T-Bone]

If you are having problems getting those rear drums off - Prior to breaking out the sledge, you might try...



Jack the rear end up, put it on blocks or jackstands, remove wheels, replace a couple of lug nuts loosely on each side, start then slam on the brakes in forward and reverse. Gets them every time, in fact if you don't replace a couple of lug nuts you may be chasing a drum down the street... (from a post in 2002 by illflem)



I know it sounds crazy, but it has worked for me every time.



T-Bone

 

[RRFinch]

I agree with one of the o ther replies. Either draw where all the springs go, or best yet either take digital pictures BEFORE you dissasemble, or you can always use the other side as a pattern. It is mirror image so you have to switch your brain.



The biggest challenge will be to get all the springs and keepers in back in the right place and to figure out the order of assembly. One of the other replies has good advice here.



Good luck. I did mine recently and it took me about 3 hours on the first one and about an hour on the second.

 

[CrewCabDiesel]

jelvington



Since you have a 2000 model the drums come off just like a 1/2 ton or car. Back off the adjusters through the slot in the backing plate and then you remove the drums. You DO NOT need to pull apart the axles and hub assemblies like on 1999 and down 3/4 ton and one ton trucks. you will find the drums will rust to the hub and you will need to do some carefull prying and some light hammering to loosen them up. Be sure to check when you have the drums off for and type of hub seal leak or leaking wheel cyclinders. ALso as stated do one side at a time, using the other for reference. Always replace all brake hardware with the shoes and remember to clean and disemble the adjusters (use a high temp grease for the adjusters). Of course have your drums turned when replacing the shoes.

Hope this helps

Kyle

 

[ProspectorTim]

I'm not sure what year they made the change, but my 1999 also does not need to have the axles removed to service the brakes.



However, I had to pull my axles anyhow, to replace the leaky seals.



The procedure of loosening the drum by hitting the brakes when jacked up and lug nuts loosened works real good.

 

[jelvington]

Thanks for all the info guys. I got everything taken care of yesterday. I had one drum that was tough to get off but using the advice I got here of putting it on stands and hitting the brakes worked real well. Turns out the rear brakes are fine. They had a whole bunch of dust so I just cleaned everything up real good.

I just had some new Toyo's put on and noticed that the front rotors were a little scarred so thats all I had to do was take care of the front brakes. The rear shoes look great.