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Rear brakes 96 3500

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Ok, I've freaking had it with my rear brakes, I'ts not enough that they need frequent adjsutments, now the e-brake is not holding(adjusted less than 1k mi. ) and I think they (the brakes) are not working. Does anyone know if there is a disk conversion or will the new 01 brakes bolt on? (can I say freaking?):D :rolleyes:

The truck has some pretty good bombing done, and is 8500#.
 
As fas as I know,the newer 2001. 5 disks are not a bolt on,the axle tubes are different. I was going to take some measurements to see if I can fab some brackets we could weld on to use the 2001. 5 stuff.



Your drum brakes should be fine if they are working properly. Make sure you don't have an axle seal leaking. I have done several Dodge's with the larger chevy wheel cylinder,good metallic shoes,and bypassed the height sensing proportioning valve with a regular flex hose. They are just as good as the newer disc's. As far as the park brake,it shouldn't go out of adjustment that quickly. Perhaps a cable is stretching,or one of the rear cables has come off the park brake lever inside the drum.
 
That sounds good ! Do you have a part # or an application that I could go to NAPA with for the wheel cylinders, and pads?Thanks, I and everyone in front of me thank you!!!!!!!!!!:D
 
The Bendix number for the wheel cylinders are 33708,which any good parts house will be able to cross reference to another brand.



The rear shoes we have been using are from DC,part number 04886328,but any GOOD metallic shoe will work. Preferrably go new on the rear shoes,as I have seen a lot of the rebuilt shoes that were slightly bent or twisted,causing unever wear.



The brake hose to bypass the rear height sensing proportioning valve is DC,52009575. You may want to check your as not all 3500's have the valve.



When your in there,pay close attention to the axle seals,now's the time to do them if there is any sign of leakage.
 
446:

I don't understand the rear brake problem. My 96 is still on the OEM shoes at 213K. I tow 14K and have had the front changed 3 times. When the rear is in adjustment the p brake does OK.



Gotta think on this?



Preston:rolleyes:
 
When rears are adjusted the p-brake works fine, it's just stopped working. The rears need to be adjusted at every oil change like clock work. It seems the self adjusers don't do thier job.

I do a great deal of stop and go city driving, with MANY steep hills, ( on the brakes all the way down). I think your exhaust brake (and my driving habits) may have something to do with how long your brakes last.

:D
 
Driving habits are a problem. There is a diesel owner here that changes his brakes almost every 12,000 miles. We were sitting in the restaurant here in Barnesville and I was listening to him tell about his braking woes and dodge brakes. He said its always the front. I finally ask him what he was towing. He said a backhoe. I asked what kind of trailer? A duel-tandum, he said. I said those axles had large shoes, they should almost stop your truck. He said, oh, their not hooked up. Never tow with brakes. Ain't had time to hook'um up. Man your nuts, I said. Towing about 26K and the only thing stopping you is the truck! Damn good brakes I'd say. Thats stupid.



Your right about the de-celerator. I use it all the time. Loaded or empty. I just had the rear seal replaced and ask the mech how the shoe looked? 'Bout half left, he said. I'm still going. :) I've had some other problems, but the brakes ain't one of um.



. . Good luck. . :cool:



Preston
 
There is an TDR member that has to change the front pads every

6/7000 miles.



That's me!:mad:



I don't tow, don't load anything heavier than a grocery bag.



I DO hotrod All the times!:D



Time to slow down?:confused:



Marco
 
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