Archived rear brakes and differential

[RConner]

My rear drum brake on the passenger side on my 99 has been locking up at low speeds in gravel or loose dirt. Today I pulled the drum apart after about 4 hours of pulling, heating, lubing and beating, but it finally came off. The brake is covered in grease. I figured this could be a problem. I had my gears swapped out about 2000 miles ago. Could a seal somewhere be seeping. Or could it be my hub. The hub is packed with grease, correct. The oil in the brake smells like gear oil. How many seals are there and where are they located. Could one just be flipped on its side. I wonder if when I got my gears done the mechanic screwed something up. Any thoughts or answers would be appreciated.

 

[Matt400]

When they did your gears they should have put new wheel seals in. I would put it back together and take it back to them. They had to pull that apart to do the gears.

The wheel seal pressed into the back of the drum is leaking.

Very common if you try and re-use an old one after pulling the drum.



Welcome to TDR!

 

[clinebarger]

Your hub seal is leaking. it has one seal and a axel gasket per side. The bearings are lubricated by the gear oil. The mechanic only had to pull the axels to change gears probably didn't even take the wheels off. also you need to change the shoes because they are contaminated.

 

[clinebarger]

Matt your thinking of a semi-floating axle. We have full-floating axles in our trucks. But the mechanic should have inspected the entire axel.

 

[RConner]

Thanks for the replys, this was done about 8 months ago I have only put about 1000 miles on it. I have new pads already. I cannot remember if he redid the seals or not.

 

[RConner]

How hard is it to change. And what brand is best to use.

 

[Matt400]

Right. . my bad. Had a brain fade. They wouldn't have pulled the drums unless checking brakes.

 

[Joe Mc]

Most seals will be fine (can't think of any specific brand that's better or worse). A tip for future use when trying to get rear drums off. Get truck on level ground, put rear on stands w/tires off and one lug hand tight on each drum. Start truck put in gear allow wheels to spin a bit and hit brake pedal - you'll hear a "pop" when the drum breaks free of the axel. This method may take a few times, it also may take a bit forward gear and a bit reverse to work. Don't get carried away with speed it only takes a bit of movement and then apply the brakes to work. Beats the heck out of 4 hours worth but breaking. This was one of the first tricks I learned when I first got my 99 and joined the TDR. To help the new seal "not leak" I place a small amount of gasket maker (blue goo) in the race before installing the seal and kind of caulk it to the housing once all the way in. I recommend a new gasket for the axel to hub surface, however if the old one is good you can blue goo both sides just before bolting up or, even eliminate all together and just goo it. As far as the shoes, I agree get new ones they're shot once oil soaked. Make sure you use plenty of brake kleen to clean all parts, springs, drums, etc. including the backing plate and don't forget to lube the little high spots that the shoes ride against on the plate. Another tip to help keep the self adjusters from locking up - take apart and wire wheel the threads and apply some anti-seize when threading back together. Good luck.

 

[RMcKinney]

My 1995 2500 done the same thing so i thought both seal were the same age. I told the break shop to put new seals in both sides.
Before i took it to my break shop I used the trick of putting truck on jack stands-remove wheels-put a couple of lug nuts back on about 3/4 way on. (DON'T LEAVE OUT THE LUG NUTS BACK ON!!!)
Stared truck the put it in drive- gave it a little fuel then slammed on the brake. done the same thing in reverse.
I repeated this 3 times and the stuck hub was loose. Great trick i found in here.