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Rear brakes shot, saspindle leaking drama, etc

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2WD to 4WD

Tire Recall and changing rims and tire size

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Rear brakes shot, spindle leaking drama, etc

Well, it's been one of those weeks. I finally found a good used set of Rickson 19. 5 wheels and tires. They were out of state, and it would be a week until I had them in my hands. Not a problem... I'd just to limp along on my past-worn out tires until the new ones arrived. However, the truck had other plans. I blew out 2 tires on Monday of last week. Well, no problem, I decided to use the opportunity to pull the back brakes apart and fix the leaking wheel cylinder. I'd get the brakes done, the oil changed, the new shut-off push-pull cable installed, and some other little things wrapped up, and have old Blue ready for her new tires by Sunday night.

Plans changed again. I pulled the brake drums off and here's what I found :(

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I'm thinking that this could explain why the rear brakes haven't been working so well?

I drained the gear oil (Amsoil Severe Gear 75-110) that I had changed about 18 months ago, and it looked horrible. On the driver's side spindle, there is an annular ring/groove cut into the spindle where the seal lip rides. It's like a piece of metal got caught in there, and it acted like a lathe to cut a small groove in the spindle... thus allowing gear oil to leak into the brake drum region, mix with brake dust, and create blobs of black jelly algae like goo.

So, now the dilemna. One of the emergency brake cables isn't connected. I think there's a clip missing as well? Neither of the little spring clips on a cable are connected... I think they hook onto the flag of the self adjusters somehow? And then the groove in the spindle. I'm not sure what to do about that. It's not very deep... like maybe 0. 020". However, it's obviously deep enough to comprimise the sealing of the gear oil. Would filling the groove with a thin coat of JB Weld and sanding it down smooth work? I ordered new seals that I'll be installing.

After a couple hours of cleaning, I got everything cleaned up to the point that I can begin to work on things. I have 3" shoes to put on, new 1 1/8" wheel cylinders, and will have the drums turned. I also got new springs to replace the 21 year old originals.

Anyway, on a lighter note, the Rickson wheels and tires look great! Some teaser shots... the rear end of the truck is obviously jacked up in the air quite a bit.

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--Eric
 
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EN. sounds like your going to have to install a speedi sleeve. a napa parts place should be able to help you. maybe truck repair center also. good luck. pete.
 
Looks like time for a hardware kit and a speedy sleeve. I have ssen just that several times, pretty ugly.

IIRC, therre aren't really any clips on the mergency brake cable. The housing hard mounts to the backing plate, the cable end slides into a slot on the long lever. If the end is not there and the cable hard mount to the backing plate is gone or broke, new cable time.

The rest is just a hardware kit to get all the springs and holders that will work correctly. Levers don't come in the kit so keep all that stuff.
 
Keep in mind that there are 2 different size spindles. I would take the old seal as a guide when ordering a speedy sleeve. I have the 3" brakes and then smaller spindle. If I remember the smaller one is 2. 88" and the larger is 3". You can also set a new seal to a slightly different depth and it will run on a clean section of the spindle. Another thing to do is to clean out the rear axle breather. With a pluged breather gear oil can blow right past that seal.

Bob
 
Yep. Wear sleeve. You may have to go to a bearing house to get it. Usually, I get the blank, "Whaaaat?" from the parts guys..... The spring and clips are easy, as mentioned. I've repaired several Dana 80s... . the part numbers are National #99300 wear sleeve, works with National Seal 455086... . but that's the larger axle, I'm afraid... . you'll have to look to see if the dimensions are close or same. :cool: Let me know if it gets too bad, I've got a place I've gotten them in the past, Purvis Industries, formerly Purvis Bearing.
 
Thanks for all the thoughts guys. I have the smaller spindle, measuring 2. 875". The National Seal that fits it is 417158, Shaft Size=2. 875", Housing Bore=3. 876, Outer Diameter=3. 881, Width=0. 375in. I did think about installing it at a slightly different depth... hmm... I may see if I can find a National wear sleeve to fit this smaller spindle as a first choice.

Thanks again for the help!

What I really need to do, is install the air system to run the U. S. Gear exhaust brake that's been riding along doing nothing. Then, these brake jobs will be much further between :)

--Eric
 
Well, after a little tracking down, it looks like this is what I need?

NATIONAL Part # 99287 Shaft Size Min=2. 873", Shaft Size Max=2. 879",
Width=0. 781", Overall Width=0. 938", Flange Outer Diameter=3. 219", Installation
Depth=1. 25"
 
As far as the exhaust brake goes I found that it has trippled my brake life. I think you will like it coupled with the manual trans. Is it air operated? My BD system is vacuum operated and works great.



Bob
 
Wheels look real clean. What size tires u running? I like the fact that theyre on the narrow side gives the truck a better look imo.
 
As far as the exhaust brake goes I found that it has trippled my brake life. I think you will like it coupled with the manual trans. Is it air operated? My BD system is vacuum operated and works great.

Bob

It's an air operated unit. I had a Jacobs vacuum operated unit on my '06 that worked super good... but I went through 3 vacuum pumps, and ended up selling it and getting a PacBrake. I have no experience with U. S. Gear, but expect it will help alot. I'm not sure if I need to upgrade to the 60 lb valve springs though before before using it.

Wheels look real clean. What size tires u running? I like the fact that theyre on the narrow side gives the truck a better look imo.

Thanks. They're 265/70/19. 5. So, yeah, they're a little skinny for they're height. About 10. 5" wide and 34. 2" tall. I'm hoping the skinnier tire running higher pressure will help fuel economy some... and that the larger diameter will let the truck stretch its legs a little on the highway.

--Eric
 
on mineive just got to the point i just automaticly order the speedi sleeve to cure the seal leak ive replaced way too many of them
 
Eric



Regarding the 60lb springs - my '93 has the 60lb springs and I think you would probably find that they do work better. With the BD mounted right at the turbo outlet mine has a lot of retarding power. The BD can be set to work with either 30 or 60 lb springs and is adjustable for either set. I've had no vacuum related problems. I remember reading that the earlier Fords had a stand alone electric operated vacuum pump that was around $100 - that might be a cheaper and/or better solution for a vacuum source.



Bob
 
Wheels look cool Eric!! You should coat them black tho... :)

You read my mind!!! That's what I planned to do. Any recommendations? I've been thinking about trying the black aerosol Plasti-dip? Or maybe aerosol bedliner material? Just looking for something not glossy and that holds up well.

Regarding the 60lb springs - my '93 has the 60lb springs and I think you would probably find that they do work better. With the BD mounted right at the turbo outlet mine has a lot of retarding power. The BD can be set to work with either 30 or 60 lb springs and is adjustable for either set. I've had no vacuum related problems. I remember reading that the earlier Fords had a stand alone electric operated vacuum pump that was around $100 - that might be a cheaper and/or better solution for a vacuum source.

I guess I should order the 60 lb springs. At your HP level, did you put 60 lb springs on the intake valves as well?

If I still had the vacuum setup, I'd look at the Ford pump. The problem with the Jacobs vacuum pump, is when it went out the first time, it left me stranded on the side of the road pulling a trailer. And when the bearings in the vacuum pump siezed, it instantly shredded the serpentine belt, snapped the tensioner pulley, filled all the pully grooves with melted rubber, broke the fan shroud assembly, and propelled the broken tensioner into the back of the radiator. It was under warranty and replaced, but still a huge headache. The next vacuum pump went out as well, although not so catastrophically. It just left a bad taste in my mouth, and I ditched it altogether.

It looks like I need to just take a day off work and install valve springs, and get the air system installed.

--Eric
 
Ugh!! I'd stay away from the plasti-dip, if I were you... . I'd go for powder coating or someone that knows how to paint aluminum. A good adhesive primer is essential to staying on..... Ask Paccar. :D
 
Re the 60lb springs - I had exhausts done when I had the BD Exh brake put on - in retrospect I should have gone with them on the intakes but did not. I watched the tech install them and they are not all that hard to do - you just have to get the piston at TDC when you do them. I am running the 366 spring so they are not really necessary but I will probably do them somewhere down the road.



Bob
 
If you look back to issue 69, page 17, I took pictures of the adjuster, parking brake cable, and other parts when everything was clean. It could aid in re-assembly.
 
If you look back to issue 69, page 17, I took pictures of the adjuster, parking brake cable, and other parts when everything was clean. It could aid in re-assembly.
\

Hey, actually, that helps alot! Thanks!!!

--Eric
 
No problem. I hate drum brakes. After I've done them once or twice, I usually remember how everything goes, but since I had everything clean, I thought I would snap a few pictures.
 
Your not the only onr to have a problem with the Jacobs vacuum pump, we had one on an 04 it went out four times before we replaced it with a BD one. As for the wheels if your truck acts like our 04 your RPM's should drop around 300 at highway speed and 2 to 3 MPG gain.
 
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