Rear driveline support bearing replacement

[EStadler]

I forgot some basics.
Removed the rear driveline on my 04.5 3500 Quad cab 4X4 with the NV5600 manual trans to replace the rear seal in the transfer case. When the driveline was out I noticed the rubber webs in the center support bearing were broken. Separated the 2 pc driveline so I could replace the center bearing but forgot to mark the u-joint alignment before separating the driveline. Can someone remind me how the u-joints should be aligned when it goes back together.
Ed Stadler

False alarm guys
I did not realize the splines between the 2 pc driveline were keyed so they only go together one way. I did not separate any u-joint so, the drive shaft should go back in exactly as it was. Sorry for the post. However, I did learn something.

 

[B.G. Smith]

The shaft yoke on the rear drive shaft aligns with the shaft yoke on the rear of the transmission. bgu

 

[04blackcherry]

How tough of a job was it? Did you have to buy the 40mm ID bearing for your application?

 

[Prairie Dog]

All the u-joints line up in-phase with each other.

 

[EStadler]

Hey Rob,
There were 2 support bearings listed and I needed the larger which has an ID of 1.572 for my 3500.
Purchased the bearing from NAPA but the price was about the same as it was from Dodge.
For me, the biggest part of the job was getting the old bearing off. I had to cut out the rubber web and then remove the bracket so I could get to the bearing. I ended up cutting the bearing off with a zip wheel. Had to be careful not to hit the shaft. I modified a piece of pipe to match the new bearing race to knock the bearing on with. After that it was pretty simple, although it took 2 of us to get the driveline back in because it's heavy.
Ed

 

[EStadler]

Thanks Prairie Dog,
Took me a while to find out you can't miss the way the splines are keyed.

 

[DannyW]

Once the rubber is cut and the bracket removed, can you get a gear puller on the bearing? Or is it too far back on the shaft?

 

[EStadler]

Danny,
I could not use a bearing puller because the one I had did not have a long enough reach. Even if it did, I'm not sure it would have done the job. Cutting the bearing off with a zip wheel is not too big a job, you just have to be careful. Just cut down through each part of the bearing until you get to the inner race. It's a little messy but it works. When the inner race is exposed, just cut through part of it so you don't hit the driveline and then hit the notch with a cold chisel. That should loosen the race so it will slid off. Good luck.

 

[DannyW]

It occurred to me to check the shop manual (duhhhh). It says to use a bearing splitter to get it off the shoulder, and then a press.

 

[Deleted member 995608]

Food for thought. My truck would eat the center bearing for breakfast until a driveline shop suggested that I shim the carrier bearing down some. I made a 1/2" spacer from A36 steel and placed between the bearing and frame mounting bracket. The last bearing I replaced had about 100k on it before I sold the truck.

 

[DannyW]

I went to order a bearing from Rockauto, and there was not enough info on the webpage to select the correct size. I emailed them, and the reply was that I had to measure the shaft diameter. Well the only way (short of pulling the shaft out) to get a reading it to cut the front boot clamp, and slide it back far enough to get a caliper on it. Did that, and ordered the smaller of the two bearings. So come work day, we pulled the shaft out, changed all the u-joints, and went to test fit the new center bearing onto the shaft because it didn't look right. It wouldn't even pass over the splines! As it turns out, there's a shoulder on the shaft where the center bearing seats, and the shaft between that shoulder and the splines is a smaller diameter! Sumb##ch. If the rear pinion seal job I was also attempting to do is any indication, the parts related to the driveline and rear end have to be ordered by VIN number. That's what the local Dodge dealer needed to get a pnion seal. Just a word to the wise.