REAR driveshaft u-joints shot again!!!!! which aftermarket is the best?

[Firewalker]

REAR driveshaft u-joints shot again!!!!! which aftermarket is the best?

I have had three sets replaced and it is time for another who makse a greeseable u-joint that is made for severe duty???

 

[JFaughn]

I'm under the impression that spicer is the best , but there is a therory that non greaseable is stronger for exstream use .

 

[jelag]

Guys. .



I was having problems with my rear u-joint and rear seal on the back of the tranfercase on my 04 3500 dually... . the seal looked like it was being hit by the yoke on the drive shaft... . and it would cause the seal to leak fluid... . We put a spacer under the carrier bearing to straighten out the drive shaft, and shortened the drive shaft 1"..... We've stopped the damage to the rear seal on the transfer case, and the rear u-joint seems to be lasting longer... . at least we are at the mileage of the last failure and the rear joint is still good... . if it fails again soon... I'm going to put a set of Camber shims between the axle and spring pack and turn the front of the rear axle up and point it more towards the transmission..... to shorten the angle it runs at... .



I think in the 175K miles this truck has on it... . its had 3 rear u-joints... and 2 rear transfer case seals installed...



BTW those of you who don't follow my threads..... we pull 20K lbs with this truck... its never gone one full tank full of fuel as a pickup and not towing... .

 

[Firewalker]

WHAT i am looking for is an extreame use u-joint supper heavy duty!!!!

 

[jwilliams3]

Firewalker,

Is your truck an auto or a manual or do you want us to guess?

The joints for them are different.

I use Precision brand, some swear by spicer; but it happens to be easier for me to obtain precision or ac delco.

I can tell you that the Precision have an overall heavier body than the factory OEM stuff.



The Myth of the greasables being weak is from the Gasser crowd of the past that had vehicles that were equipped with MINIATURE U-joints that could crack and fail if you got into a little wet pavement.



I am here to tell you that greasables do work, and work very well.

I among many other members here are using the Precision greasable brand of U-joint that serves me very well. I do grease the U-joints that I have installed.

I now have greasable front axle joints and 3 greasable U joints for the rear driveshaft.



As far as tough goes, they held up to 10 hooks to the sled last year and daily idiot driving from yours truly.

Thats taking off in 4x4 2nd Hi range @ 3600rpm at about 50lbs of boost with 40k lbs behind me.

 

[JDinNY]

Try this guy:

http://www.quad4x4.com/Dodge Drive Shaft.htm

he's been great with me.

 

[jwilliams3]

If you want great prices check out www.rockauto.com



Quad has some nice stuff but you do pay.

 

[Firewalker]

thanks guys, i picked up the precision u-joints from napa # 232

 

[STEVEBROOKS]

I'd greatly appreciate if somebody would:



1. Give me the Precision part numbers for each of the u-joints for both the front and rear drive shafts for my truck.



2. Tell me if there are any special tools needed to remove the shafts (ie, specific length of Torx bits, etc).



Thanks,



Steve

 

[jwilliams3]

For sure:

The 6 speed rear driveshaft takes Precision 351's.



The Front Axle joints are Precision #464 and are greasable also.



You might check out www.rockauto.com



They will have all the U joints you want and for a very low price. Thats where I buy mine.

 

[100 Proof]

For what ever it is worth, I just put Precision 351's in mine at 46K. I did it because the joints, a press, and a lift were suddenly handy and at my disposal. In addition, I have heard of the stories of these joints going out at 25k. The factory joints I took out looked fine and still had plenty of grease in them though.



100 Proof

 

[jhnbrll]

I just had one of my universals go bad so I went to napa and got the 351. It didn't fit and napa didn't have a listing for an 05. So I went to the dealer and had to give him my vin# because he said there were 4 different universals that they used. So I picked one up at $90!!! ouch.

 

[jwilliams3]

Yeah, you might have to grind the caps a bit and a little of the shaft cross-section.



But other than that, they will work.



If you had one go bad, the others already have a head start on failing.

And the one you replaced will just go bad again.

 

[FASTERTHANU]

You have not told us how they are going bad. Are you breaking the body or killing bearings and cups? Is your truck lifted or stock height?



If you are breaking the bodies than a Heavy Duty will help (either that or quit doing burnouts ).



If you are killing bearing and cups that is another issue. It can be caused by not "freeing " up the joint when installed. Be sure the yokes are clean and free of any defects/damage. You should lightly oil the bores before installing the cups. After both clips are in lightly tap both directions so as to be sure the joints are not bound up, they should travel their allowable range of motion with relative ease even when new. It is not uncommon for people to install them and have them a little bound up which will cause premature failure. If I've just insulted your mech ability, sorry but I did not mean to.



I used to be a Neapco dealer and my salesman told me the only difference between the Heavy Duty and standard duty was the that the HD did not have a grease fitting, and therefore the internal passage. That and the color of the seals. This usually comes into play when the joint is subject to big shock loads (ie: drag racing) or used beyond its design capability (lifted trucks with BIG tires). I too am a big Spicer fan having built drive lines for several years their stuff just seemed to be better.



I would refrain from grinding on caps or cross as these pieces are case hardened just a few thousandths deep. Once you go through the case they will wear faster than fast! You may also want to check with these guys http://www.highangledriveline.com/ as they build drivelines for rock crawlers which are way tougher on stuff than we are (they break Rockwell 2. 5 ton axles!)



Good Luck