Attention: TDR Forum Junkies 
I responded to a post in the Product/Accessories Forum and figured it may help out someone else here. It's a very long post and not easy to perform but it did the trick for my problem.
Sorry for the novel but, it really solved my problem and made the truck a joy to drive/stop once again.
Sounds like you are referring to the hopping situation I had w/my 99 (rear drums). Boy did I go thru some blood, sweat & tears, not to mention $$$, before I finally found out what to do. I had my drums cut to true them up to the new shoes "NG" (no good). I replaced the drums still NG, had new drums cut NG $$$$.
Sam P. is "The Brake Man"! Sam suggested fitting the shoes to the drums. Of course I never heard of this
But, after thinking about what he said and what was happening the light bulb finally lit up. Only problem remained was how to do it myself. For the sake of not confusing anyone and protecting Sam P's good name he did not tell me to perform the following steps. It worked for me and I'm only trying to explain what I conjured up to fit the shoes to the drum and stop the god forsaken shaking.
Explain: If brake shoe arch doesn't match the diameter of the drums strange things happen. If the top and bottom of the shoe are the only part touching the drum a "heel-toe" situation takes place causing the shoes to "shake"/"grab alternating heel then toe of shoe" inside the drum, hence giving a hippity hoppity stopping experience
of course this is only noticed below 25 - 20 mph. Sound familiar yet? Read on: likewise, if the center of the shoe is the only part touching the drum a similar situation occurs, usually only at lower speeds of 10 or less mph. Bet this is really hitting home about now.
Evaluating the situation: Plan this for at least 4 - 6 hours depending on work area set up/number of cold beverages
. Set rear on stands, remove both wheels and drums. Do the following steps one side at a time to ensure you re-install all the brake hardware correctly - using other side as a reference when re-installing the one you are working on. Here goes - remove the shoes and place inside the drum as they would be if still on the truck. Go to a level work space and place one shoe outside the drum on the bench. Take the remaining one and raise it to the area on the drum where it normally rides, being sure to have toe, center & heel level on the wear line of the drum. Now, looking down from a top view of the drum as if you were the axle, notice if the heel & toe are touching the drum. Is there clearance in the middle of the shoe? Or, is the middle of the shoe is touching and your clearance is heel & toe? I'm talking . 020" is too much clearance heel/toe. Clearance is to be @ heel & toe and the center of the shoe needs to touch the drum. I think Sam P. said optimal is . 012" - . 015" but not positive.
The fix:
If too much clearance is in center of shoe you need to bend the shoe frame to make it slightly slightly smaller to provide some clearance @ heel & toe and contact at the center shoe to drum. How to do this took the longest time to figure out utilizing the tools I had on hand. Find 2 "C" clamps, a 3/8" drive extension 4" long and feeler gages. The fun part is trying to keep the shoe in place on the drum while fitting all the tools to make the adjustment on the brake shoe frame, I recommend finding someone (who won't ask too many questions) to help hold things until you can locate clamps & extension on the drum/shoe. Place the extension at the top (or bottom) of the shoe frame, between the shoe & drum, using the brake material as a guide to help keep the extension in place. Place one end of the clamp in the center of the shoe frame and the screw end of the clamp outside the drum, tighten the clamp slowly and observe the center of the shoe moving toward the drum. It really works! Try not to go too far as removing clearance from the center of the shoe is easier than removing it heel/toe. Check clearances frequently until you dial it in.
If too much clearance is heel/toe (or if you bent the shoe to far trying to correct the center clearance) you need to bend the shoe frame to make it slightly larger. Place about a . 030" feeler gage between the middle of the shoe and the drum, clamp each end of the shoe frame to the drum, tightening the clamp screws equally until they touch the drum. Remove clamps, feeler gage and check heel & toe clearances. If the clearance is too tight re-do with thicker feeler gage(s) and keep checking/adjusting until desired clearance is obtained.
Finish the other shoe. Make sure you clean the brake plate pedestals (where the shoe frame contacts the brake plate), apply a thin coat of white grease to them before re-installing, clean the inside drum and shoe material. If there are grooves on the pedestals file flat.
Wasn't that fun? Only one more side to go! Don't get me wrong, this procedure is a RPITA (royal pain in the . . . ) but is worked for me and returned my truck to a pleasure to bring to a gentle slow stop Vs. being bounced all over the cab previously.
As you all probably can tell, I don't work for any repair shop or, represent anyone other than what I've figured out myself with a bit of guidance from the good old TDR. Since it worked for me I figured I'd share it with the rest of the gang. Just be careful and take your time, walk away for a few minutes if it gets frustrating.
I strongly recommend doing this even if/especially if you are installing "new" shoes. It's easier to do it when they're off than after you've installed them. :-laf
enjoy!
Sorry for the novel but, it really solved my problem and made the truck a joy to drive/stop once again.
Sounds like you are referring to the hopping situation I had w/my 99 (rear drums). Boy did I go thru some blood, sweat & tears, not to mention $$$, before I finally found out what to do. I had my drums cut to true them up to the new shoes "NG" (no good). I replaced the drums still NG, had new drums cut NG $$$$.
Sam P. is "The Brake Man"! Sam suggested fitting the shoes to the drums. Of course I never heard of this
But, after thinking about what he said and what was happening the light bulb finally lit up. Only problem remained was how to do it myself. For the sake of not confusing anyone and protecting Sam P's good name he did not tell me to perform the following steps. It worked for me and I'm only trying to explain what I conjured up to fit the shoes to the drum and stop the god forsaken shaking. Explain: If brake shoe arch doesn't match the diameter of the drums strange things happen. If the top and bottom of the shoe are the only part touching the drum a "heel-toe" situation takes place causing the shoes to "shake"/"grab alternating heel then toe of shoe" inside the drum, hence giving a hippity hoppity stopping experience
of course this is only noticed below 25 - 20 mph. Sound familiar yet? Read on: likewise, if the center of the shoe is the only part touching the drum a similar situation occurs, usually only at lower speeds of 10 or less mph. Bet this is really hitting home about now. Evaluating the situation: Plan this for at least 4 - 6 hours depending on work area set up/number of cold beverages
. Set rear on stands, remove both wheels and drums. Do the following steps one side at a time to ensure you re-install all the brake hardware correctly - using other side as a reference when re-installing the one you are working on. Here goes - remove the shoes and place inside the drum as they would be if still on the truck. Go to a level work space and place one shoe outside the drum on the bench. Take the remaining one and raise it to the area on the drum where it normally rides, being sure to have toe, center & heel level on the wear line of the drum. Now, looking down from a top view of the drum as if you were the axle, notice if the heel & toe are touching the drum. Is there clearance in the middle of the shoe? Or, is the middle of the shoe is touching and your clearance is heel & toe? I'm talking . 020" is too much clearance heel/toe. Clearance is to be @ heel & toe and the center of the shoe needs to touch the drum. I think Sam P. said optimal is . 012" - . 015" but not positive. The fix:
If too much clearance is in center of shoe you need to bend the shoe frame to make it slightly slightly smaller to provide some clearance @ heel & toe and contact at the center shoe to drum. How to do this took the longest time to figure out utilizing the tools I had on hand. Find 2 "C" clamps, a 3/8" drive extension 4" long and feeler gages. The fun part is trying to keep the shoe in place on the drum while fitting all the tools to make the adjustment on the brake shoe frame, I recommend finding someone (who won't ask too many questions) to help hold things until you can locate clamps & extension on the drum/shoe. Place the extension at the top (or bottom) of the shoe frame, between the shoe & drum, using the brake material as a guide to help keep the extension in place. Place one end of the clamp in the center of the shoe frame and the screw end of the clamp outside the drum, tighten the clamp slowly and observe the center of the shoe moving toward the drum. It really works! Try not to go too far as removing clearance from the center of the shoe is easier than removing it heel/toe. Check clearances frequently until you dial it in.
If too much clearance is heel/toe (or if you bent the shoe to far trying to correct the center clearance) you need to bend the shoe frame to make it slightly larger. Place about a . 030" feeler gage between the middle of the shoe and the drum, clamp each end of the shoe frame to the drum, tightening the clamp screws equally until they touch the drum. Remove clamps, feeler gage and check heel & toe clearances. If the clearance is too tight re-do with thicker feeler gage(s) and keep checking/adjusting until desired clearance is obtained.
Finish the other shoe. Make sure you clean the brake plate pedestals (where the shoe frame contacts the brake plate), apply a thin coat of white grease to them before re-installing, clean the inside drum and shoe material. If there are grooves on the pedestals file flat.
Wasn't that fun? Only one more side to go! Don't get me wrong, this procedure is a RPITA (royal pain in the . . . ) but is worked for me and returned my truck to a pleasure to bring to a gentle slow stop Vs. being bounced all over the cab previously.
As you all probably can tell, I don't work for any repair shop or, represent anyone other than what I've figured out myself with a bit of guidance from the good old TDR. Since it worked for me I figured I'd share it with the rest of the gang. Just be careful and take your time, walk away for a few minutes if it gets frustrating.
I strongly recommend doing this even if/especially if you are installing "new" shoes. It's easier to do it when they're off than after you've installed them. :-laf
enjoy!
Happens to me around 40mph, though, coming to a stop. Previous, non-Dodge truck, did it as well. The sensation was that of having oval tires in the rear. 
