2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Rear Drum Guys - Read This

[ntillm01]

Mine's got 4 wheel ABS, 2WD, Camper Package, Towing Package, and no height sensor rod thingy. Book says it electronically handles the proportioning changes when the load conditions change. I do not believe there is any kind of angle/level/ride height measurement that the ABS controller does, so it must handle it because it's doing the ABS thing anyway, which is the main point of the load-sensing proportioning in the first place.



I'm going to throw my thoughts in too. Front/rear proportioning setup is going to be a fine line between rear wheel lock-up and not. My guess is DC went a bit on the safe side and backed off the rear pressure to avoid spin outs. Too many people complained, so they came up with the bulletin to bring it back up a bit. From what I am reading, several out there are playing with that balance and getting what they feel as better braking. I am also reading that playing with the setup has caused a couple of unexpected wheel lock ups in panic stops where you want your brakes to be predictable the most!!! If you are getting better braking, good for you, it works because you're setting it up to be optimal on dry road.



These trucks are heavy all by themselves. It is going to take a lot to stop them. Personnaly, the setup in my 2001 is what it should be and I don't care that my rear brakes don't wear. I'll bet they're working when they need to. I'd say they are on the edge anyway, because in a hard stop, if the rear bounces over something, anti-lock takes over and backs them off anyway because they are locking up. And that's on dry road!



Ask anyone who set-up braking systems and they'll tell you hands down that front brakes are always going to take the brunt of the braking force. Ask anyone with a front-wheel drive car how many times they've had to replace the fronts vs. rears on their car. Heavy nose + all the weight gets thrown that way in a stop = front brakes have to do most of the stoppping of the vehicle.



Hope I didn't start a war, but wanted to share my thoughts.



Nohr

 

[BTowler]

ntillm01, the problem is there are many of us who are experiencing extreme brake wear and DC apparently does not want to address the issue. I am about to put on my 3rd set of front pads in a years time, not to mention I have replaced both rotors already and will need to do it again after the 4th set of pads! I am easy on my brakes and do not tow often, but do alot of driving intown and highway, so it is a driveability issue. I personally am about to pull my rod and modify it so it can be adjusted. Maybe once we fix all the quirks that DC has saddled us with, we will finally have a truck to match our engine!

 

[Bart]

I'd like to add my $. 02 worth on this issue. You guys with the 2500 have something that can be played with to get a little better braking. My one toner doesn't have that. I've had my front rotors turned three times to stop the front end hoping when braking (in 2 years). I could see a lose of control because of that, not to mention the cost of new rotors. I stop very easily I might add. I coast to avoid having to apply the brakes and then apply the brakes in more than enough time to come to a gentle stop. I live in rural California and don't do a lot of stop and go. I have my auto (ATS built) and drive it like a stick without the clutch. That lockup torque converter holds on till 18 mph and therefore I don't have to brake as much as a stock auto would require.

After turning the rotors for the last time and reading more here I've taken to doing a lot more of backing up and serious stops to active the rear adjusters. I'm not sure but I think I'm starting to feel the old hop coming back on some stops. I do know that I most likely will go to rear disc to cure this problem. Anyone know where's the best deal on retro-rear-disc brakes setups?

 

[ntillm01]

BTowler: Extreme brake wear, like you're talking about, yes I'd call that a problem. I'm not convinced the rear proportioning boost is the right answer. You guys have been battling it longer than I have and honestly, my 2001 1-ton hasn't worried me with wear (first set of fronts at 50k) or braking performance. I will say it pulled and took a long time to stop when I first bought it used. That bothered me! I read the star-wheel adjust recommendation on this forum, and noted the same recommendation in the service manual. After chaning the oil and adjusting the brakes (and continuing every time) I have not had either issue in over a year.



Another thought. I read in another article/magazine that late 1990's Dodge Ram trucks used Delphi brakes. Others have told me that Delphi brakes (even on other makes) have jumpy-hoppy pulsation issues with the rotors. Has anyone checked into that and put newer trucks brakes on them? My brakes all say Bosch on them (front and rear).



I'll be quiet now.

Nohr

 

[IWeiny]

Well...

One other thing I have said before on this thread is some of us have changed the suspension such that these valves will no longer work as designed. When you put air bags or other ride "leveling" things on, like is VERY common for campers, the valve will not open up. That is something the engineers at Dodge do not know, nor can they be faulted for...



Sorry, I guess I just don't want to seem like an idiot.

 

[rblomquist]

I'm very very happy with manually adjusting the brake bias. Today is a great example... ... . I realized that while towing my 3,000 lb boat the braking was really nice and consistent. Before, there was always some "in the cab pucker power" during sudden stops and/or slowing down on big hills; it took a long time.



Why I say today was a good example is because even though the boat weighs 3k the way it sits on the trailer leaves almost no tongue weight (I can pick it off the ground myself). Now, if I still had it hooked up the way DC had designed it I would've had next to no rear brake power as the rear doesn't squat at all with this boat trailer. If nothing else that is down right dangerous and IMO an indictment on DC engineering (at least at the time).



Having to rely on basically just the 2 front discs to stop a 7k truck is bad enough, but having just 50% of the brakes working with 3k of payload is absolutley asinine.

 

[JSmith]

My 96 has had, and does have braking issues. I just had the third set of rotors installed in 4 years. The rear brakes are a joke to say the least. I had the one ton wheel cyl`s installed last year. I see no difference in the braking at all. My truck had 140,000 miles on it when I changed out the rear brake shoes. I just had new rotors and pads installed in the front and the damned truck does not like to stop. GOD help me if I get into a situation where I have to panic stop. This brake issue has me thinking of getting another truck, and it will not be a Dodge. I love the Cummins, BUT the brakes are a pain. What help is there for a 96 3/4 ton? I don`t want to spend thousands trying to install disk brakes on the rear.



Just call me no shoes on the rear

 

[Jim McCarty]

I have a '96 2500 CC. It doesn't have the proportioning valve. It's a 2wd and the rear brakes have always been weak. I installed the 30mm rear wheel cylinders and they made a good difference. These are larger than the 1 ton wheel cylinders. They were only about 12 or 13 bucks each at the local NAPA store. I forget the part number but there are threads on the tdr that have the number. Also regular brake adjustments are necessary no matter what else you do. Jim