2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Rear End did not LOCK!!

[litespeed]

Help... .....



This is a problem... .....



I was at the boat ramp today. I am there often (3 to 5 times a week). I was loading my boat on the trailer, got in the truck, put it in 1st gear and all I hear is 2 tires spinning on the right hand side?????



Normally the rear end locks and all 4 tires spin for about 1 second and the boat comes right out (dually).



What is happening? Is the locker toast or did it just not lock and this is a fluke?



I just changed the fluid less than 6,000 miles ago.



This is bad. The ramp is steep and always wet with saltwater and sea grass. Never been a problem until today.



Thanks,



AJ

 

[FTwardoch]

Are you sure you have a locker or do you have the factory limited slip? Doubt it's a locker (such as a Detroit) so it is likely a worn LS that you simply overcame the clutches with the torque. Did you put friction modifier in the pumpkin when you changed the fluid? That shouldn't have affected what you experienced I don't think but not sure.



Sometimes you can get the LS to work by using the brake pedal a little to gain yourself some differentiation in the rear end. Try that for now until you rebuild or upgrade the current LS unit.

 

[Alphacowboy]

dont worry, if it does need to be rebuilt, its fairly simple! I rebuilt my spiders and clutch packs in a matter of a couple hours. Plus, when you rebuilt it, you can make it a bit stiffer if you like by using some of the unused clutches. (you'll understand what I am talking about when you pull it apart)

 

[Beast2B]

if you rely on the traction, do it once, do it right and get a REAL Detroit Locker. you will get some clunking occasionally when it ratchets around corners, but it WILL give you traction on both sides!

 

[litespeed]

I used Royal Purple in the rear (as I always have). It does not require the use of a friction modifier.



Yes, it is factory so I guess it is limited slip.



I have noticed the past few weeks that when I have the windows down that when I go around corners, I can hear the tires. They barely squeal when I go around corners. It did not used to do this.



Alpha,



You said I could do the job in a couple hours? Is this with basic tools? Or do I need to get a set of dial micrometers? I'm assuming I will have to pull the brakes, outer bearings, axles, diff. cover, drain the fluid and pull the whole ring assembly out of the pumpkin?



Where are you getting the parts? Anywhere or are they dealer only?



Thanks again!!



AJ

 

[Extreme1]

If you recently did a lube change, that's the problem. The new lube is too slippery! This was a common problem, the new trucks would come and the LS wouldn't work. Change the lube (leave the LS additive out) and after a few thousand miles (it took mine 3k) it would start to chatter when turning corners. When it does that, add the Dodge LS additive (it's the best) 1/2 or 1 ounce at a time to get it to stop chattering. Mine only took 1 ounce with a Mag-Hytek cover, the bottle is 4 ounces.



I also recommend you pull your carrier out and restack your LS plates. It works like a motorcycle clutch (or multidisk tourque convertor) and has a few plates and disks. The disks and plates have to be against each other to get friction and provide the LS action. The '00 LS I got was stacked disk-plate-disk-plate-disk-disk-disk-plate-plate-plate-plate-plate (confirmed "correct" with a '00 FSM). This only yielded 5 friction surfaces per axle. Last week I restacked mine to disk-plate-disk-plate-disk-plate-disk-plate-disk-plate-plate-plate to give 9 friction surfaces per axle.



This how I got my LS, a member here got stuck in his field and wanted it fixed NOW so he put a locker in it. After it started chattering (and adding the additive) the LS works pretty good. I can do nice dually/posi burnouts.

 

[pwerwagn]

I'm assuming I will have to pull the brakes, outer bearings, axles, diff. cover, drain the fluid and pull the whole ring assembly out of the pumpkin

?



You dont have to pull the brakes and stuff to pull the carrier assy. All you gotta pull is the axle shafts and the diff cover.

If you keep track of everything and put it all back in as it came out (bearing races, etc) you *shouldnt* have to set anything back up.

About the only special tool you will need is a torque wrench.



--Jeff

 

[Alphacowboy]

?



You dont have to pull the brakes and stuff to pull the carrier assy. All you gotta pull is the axle shafts and the diff cover.

If you keep track of everything and put it all back in as it came out (bearing races, etc) you *shouldnt* have to set anything back up.

About the only special tool you will need is a torque wrench.



--Jeff

exactly what he said!



And I did as said above, I reconfigured the clutch packs for more surfaces

 

[BigPapa]

What about the large socket for the axle nuts?



Scott

 

[Alphacowboy]

What about the large socket for the axle nuts?



Scott

huh? there is 8 - 5/16ths bolts on the axle caps. (IIRC) you remove these (can even leave the wheels on the truck. then pull them out, axles come right out with the caps. Then you pull the Diff cover, and take out the 4 - 3/4" (I think) bolts holding the bearing caps in. Pull the caps, then the center section will come right out. thats it, nothing to it!



(CORRECTION, drain the Diff first... or you will end up with even more oil on the wheels. a small dish inder the caps when removing them is a very very good idea!)

 

[Extreme1]

What about the large socket for the axle nuts?



Scott

2 9/16 but like AC said, it's not needed.

 

[IC Smoke]

just install a detroit locker and be done with it! I love mine!!!





Ian

 

[MotleyCrueCab]

I've always found that using a welder is the easiest and most relaible way to leaving two marks

 

[BigPapa]

2 9/16 but like AC said, it's not needed.

I had one leaking on mine a couple of weeks ago and thought I might fix it myself. Last minute before leaving on vacation a buddy who owns his own shop graciously offered to fix it for me and they used it when replacing mine. I wasn't aware it could be done without removing the nut.



Scott

 

[litespeed]

Thanks for all the help!!



So, I can actually do the repair without even removing the rear wheels?



That would be great. This would save me at least 30 - 45 minutes of work.



Is it worth it to get the factory repair manual for something like this or is the Haynes manual sufficient?



AJ

 

[dpuckett]

In the Dana70s I have done, I've had good enough directions from the instructions included in the package of new parts. Be careful, and remember how stuff was lined up before removing it. But if you are still not comfortable with that, get a FSM. If you do any of your own work, it will pay for itself quickly.



Daniel

 

[CLamb]

IMO its not a good idea to use a synthetic with a LS just for this reason. The LS works off of friction and synthetic works against it . I also think part of the problem is the later 2nd gens had a crappy LS in them. A good friend of mine has a 95 with 260K on it with the original diff parts. There is never any question as to if it will spin both tires, it always does.

 

[redram]

IMO its not a good idea to use a synthetic with a LS just for this reason. The LS works off of friction and synthetic works against it . .

Clamb, being a synthetic has nothing to do with a limited slip not working - this is one of those repeated myths that has become truth because it has been restated so many times. The limited slip friction modifers used in making a GL5 gear oil meet an automotive limited slip formulation provide the proper friction of the disc to plate interface.



The synthetic base oils have better improved flow at low temps and resist breakdown and thinning better than a mineral base oils. Synethetic oils formulated properly will not cause a limited slip to not lock up if the discs are working properly.



One trick that seems to help is to perform 3 or 4 slow figure 8's after changing to fresh fluid in a LS rear diff. This works the fresh fluids into the disc / plates following an oil change.

 

[CLamb]

Clamb, being a synthetic has nothing to do with a limited slip not working - this is one of those repeated myths that has become truth because it has been restated so many times. The limited slip friction modifers used in making a GL5 gear oil meet an automotive limited slip formulation provide the proper friction of the disc to plate interface.



The synthetic base oils have better improved flow at low temps and resist breakdown and thinning better than a mineral base oils. Synethetic oils formulated properly will not cause a limited slip to not lock up if the discs are working properly.



One trick that seems to help is to perform 3 or 4 slow figure 8's after changing to fresh fluid in a LS rear diff. This works the fresh fluids into the disc / plates following an oil change.

Interesting Info, I have lost all faith in factory limited slips though lol. Lock-Right for me

 

[TowPro]

BigPapa, you need to remove the big nut if your replacing the wheel seals, but all these guys are doing is pulling the axles out.

I had one leaking on mine a couple of weeks ago and thought I might fix it myself. Last minute before leaving on vacation a buddy who owns his own shop graciously offered to fix it for me and they used it when replacing mine. I wasn't aware it could be done without removing the nut.



Scott