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Archived rear end fluid change

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I have a 2001 - 2500 with 410 limited slip rear end. Dealer recommends to change rear end lube every 15,000 miles. this seems excessive in that rear end lube doesn't go bad in 15000 miles. Has anyone had problems with limited slip rear ends and has anyone used other projects as Amsoil without problems to the rear end?
 
First of all, welcome to the TDR. 15,000 is what the Dodge "Schedule B" calls for changing rear axle fluid. If you're not running at GCW in high temps in the mountains, I probably wouldn't change that often. In fact, "Schedule A" has no axle fluid service up to 150,000 miles. Look in the back of your owners manual in the glovebox, there's some other good info there. There are a few guys with temp sensors in the axle and some are running synthetics for lower temps and better mileage. You have to decide what's best for your conditions and piece of mind.
 
shill, welcome to the TDR. I am running Mobil 1 in both diffs on my truck with no problems whatsoever. Make darn sure you get it refilled properly or the chances of a wheel bearing or axle seal problem are very real. Do a search on the subject, there will be plenty of information. If you have questions left let us know.



BTW, I run mine at least 50K miles per change and that is very conservative IMO unless towing heavy all the time.
 
We tow our 13,500 lb 5ver with our 3500, so we're running Royal Purple 85W-140 synthetic in the rear axle with no problems. This lubricant has the LSD friction modifier built in, and we've had no LSD chatter at all even though we didn't add any of the Mopar friction modifier.



Rusty
 
I changed mine at 10K miles. I haul a slidein camper (heavy) and the book recommends synthetic. I used Amsoil:D
 
rear axle change

ditto to the welecomes! I recently purchased the "mag-hytec" rear end cover, 1 to dress it up, and 2 it supposedly holds more fulid and has "cooling fins" to help keep the temps down. I have not hauled anything other than a auto on a dolly for a couple hundered miles. the 1999 3500 had almost 40K when I installed the new cover. The old fluid was really tough, smelled bad and was black/brown in color, so I would say even though I am not towing I probably should have changed the fluid at least 10 K eairlier!



I used amsoil synthetic and did not have to use friction modifiers with the amsoil. I researched hear and there are a number of threads on the issue, most using the amsoil did not have to add anything, a few claimed that they had to add about 1/2 of the usual amount of friction modifier. anyway, as said before do what you feel comfortable doing. The other thing with the mag-hytec is it has a drain plug, so once you install it you don't ever have to take it off to change the fluid! good luck...
 
Re: rear axle change

Originally posted by ralphr

The old fluid was really tough, smelled bad and was black/brown in color, so I would say even though I am not towing I probably should have changed the fluid at least 10 K eairlier!



I installed my M/T cover at 10k mi when I got my 5th. At 10k, no towing my old factory fill was as you aptly put it " The old fluid was really tough, smelled bad and was black/brown in color, so I would say even though I am not towing I probably should have changed the fluid at least 10 K eairlier!". That would put it at the same time the factory shocks should have been changed--- PRE-DELIVERY :eek:



Oo.
 
Re: Re: rear axle change

Originally posted by Shooter

Originally posted by ralphr

The old fluid was really tough, smelled bad and was black/brown in color, so I would say even though I am not towing I probably should have changed the fluid at least 10 K eairlier!



I installed my M/T cover at 10k mi when I got my 5th. At 10k, no towing my old factory fill was as you aptly put it " The old fluid was really tough, smelled bad and was black/brown in color, so I would say even though I am not towing I probably should have changed the fluid at least 10 K eairlier!". That would put it at the same time the factory shocks should have been changed--- PRE-DELIVERY :eek:



Oo.



I don't know why you want to change it??? :) The Dodge Fluid comes that way, it is a special formula. Good for the life of the truck. Just buy the extended warranty and if it goes before 100K miles just have them put in new diff's. :D If you are going to keep it longer than 100K miles change it at 80K miles and that should give you a good buffer if anything is going to go bad. :rolleyes:
 
The guy I talked to at Mag Hytek(sp?) told me that in a Dana 70,

when its being used for medium-heavy towing, even with the

increased capacity their cover provides, we shouldn't go over

40K between changes if we want to get maximum service life.

He seemed very experienced and knowledgable.



This seems to be another area that qualifies for "you can either

pay me now, or pay me a lot more later".



It just depends on your priorities.
 
40K fluid change?

Mel, was the conversation regarding fluid changes based on petroleum based or synthetics??? I plan to go to 100 K (60 k with new fluid), using synthetic unless I buy a new truck, or start towing a whole lot more. :--)
 
ralphr,

I don't honestly remember. I ask him about both and ordered

6 qts of LE607. I think you should call Mag Hytek and talk to

the owner to be sure. He is very informative.



Sorry, as much as a rebuild cost, I thought I'd remember anything

associated with it a little longer.



Mel
 
amount of fluid

I remember reading in the past people jacking one side of diff to actually put in more fluid to protect the berring problem (stock cover), sorry this is all i remember, do a search on rear diff fluid. Good luck---Proflow
 
I am just curious, how many Qt’s of oil does it take to refill the Front and Rear diff. in a stock setup. Dana 70 in the rear?? :D
 
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