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Front diff seal install tool

Changed front crank seal...question with front cover

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Alright, I pulled a trailer the other day for the 1st time after buying my new 92, 3 months ago, it was making a growling sound out of the rear when turning to the right only, and only when turning. When going straight everything was fine. Well the battle has insued since, the inner bearings which are bigger than the outers show to be for a 1 ton axle in the Napa book(and they fit) and they are the same as the old ones, old ones had a good Timken # on them, the drums show to be for a 1 ton as well, but I can't get that little Tin dust shield in, and then get the hub to go in(I just busted the center out of a 86. 00 drum to find this out the hard way)Dodge has a valid part # but you get hubs and drums together not separately, to the tune of 287. 00 ea, comes as a unit, my Dodge parts guy said the part # on the drum showed it to have 2 1/2" brakes. My hood sticker says Dana 70, but I'm not so sure, truck had 2 1/2 brakes on it, but looks like the 3" would fit just fine. I need help in identifying my rear, Did they make a D-70 with 1 ton drums and 3" brakes? Anyone have a part # for the Drums? I've been going to Napa for parts, their as lost as I am, If replacing drums and that little tin dust guard want go in with Hub, do you really need it anyway? I need to know how to tell or find date of manufacture, and a part#, How do you tell if its a Power-Lok or just plain ole limited-slip, I'm wondering if this truck has had the rear replaced, HELP... .....
 
Another question is can you put the 3" Brakes on these trucks? The drum appears to have plenty of room, but what about the wheel cylinder? Does it need to be changed as well? Does the 3" brake trucks have a bigger wheel cylinder and anyone have a Napa part # on them if you need to change them?
 
You have what is listed in some parts books, not all, as a D71. Yes, its the same as a 1 ton SRW or DRW just minus the hub for DRW setup. Not sure what tin dust shield you are referencing and where it is. I am drawing a blank as to where it is?



How did you bust the center out of a drum? :--)



The hub will take 3" brakes and you just use the 1 ton shoes on it plus the cylinders which are 1 1/8" instead of the standard 1". Every thing will fit and work fine. If you use older drums just have them turned all the way out so the shoes fit.



If you have the limited slip diff then growling on a turn after warming up is not unusual. They are a friction clutch LSD so they will make a little noise turning. When you change the fluid add 2 bottles of the friction modifier and most of the noise should disapper. If it doesn't it may be time to rebuild the LS unit.



The drums are available without hubs. I got mine thru the local Les Schwab store. You have to get th eright ones though. There are 2 drums used on the application and you need to get the right axle rating, which should be 6000 or 6200 lbs on a 4x4, to get the right drum.
 
I'm pretty certain that someone has posted/used the orginal wheel cylinders with the larger shoe's... . maybe search would turn up something... . no sense buying parts you don't need right... :D



pb... .
 
The tin piece you mention goes between the hub and drum. Its purpose is to catch the leak/weep from the wheel seal. Sounds like you have gotten the drum for the later setup which goes over the outer hub and there is no place/function for that tin part. This drum is not the right part for our trucks.



You can use any combination of shoe and wheel cylinder to get the balanced braking you desire for the particular utilization of YOUR truck. If you have an empty truck and just use it for transportation, you will no want much more rear brakes as they will slide which is less stoping than if lockup does not occur.



I think I remember that JLeonard has used larger wheel cylinders on his truck.



The noise is common if you have a limited slip differential. Put the snake oil in it. But do yourself a favor and look inside the cover. They do tear up. The bearing on the ring gear side is the one that takes the carrier load and can fail before the rest. Use a large screw driver and check for side motion. There should be NONE. If there is, it is time to reshim at the least and possibly time for new bearings.



James
 
To help identify year and application of the axle you need to get the BOM number off the axle tube. It will be located close to your U-bolts on the passenger side facing to the rear of the tube. You are looking for a number like... 605312 4



;)
 
All The Bill Of Material numbers on MY 1st Gens were on a tag between two bolts on the diff cover.



Drums are the same for 1 ton or 3/4ton. I have the part number for drums (just need to look em up), I bought them last fall for $63 at NAPA.



You should hear NO noise from the limited slip. Prior expereince tells me that when you get growling, hanging, grabbing, etc, you need to save yourself the time and extra wear and go ahead and replace the clutches. be sure to soak them overnight in teh modifier before installation. And use lots of modifier- like 8 ounces of the MOPAR stuff; skip the TransX at the parts store, regardless of what the guy says. They dont work on them all the time, and many only have Chevy or ford 9" experience.



Daniel
 
thanks for all the info, I got Napa 1 ton Drums part# 440-1417 I hope this is correct, I ordered 2 new Grease slinger shields from Dodge that go between the hub and drum, I will haul some trailers with truck but mainly just transportation, I hope the new 3" brakes and 1 1/8" wheels cylinders doesn't make it to grabby in the rear, I've had a heck of a time find ing all this out especially the hard way, but now I know, and you all have been a great help. I haven't checked side to side clearence on main center bearings but will, I'm going with Valvoline full synthetic gear oi;l I believe is 75-90W and was going to use some of the Lucas Gear Additive, I heard its good stuff dunno? Anyone have any other suggestions?
 
I almost forgot those drums and hubs are really heavy ya'll might want to make sure that you have a good grip on them when you pick them up, especially when oily, you could drop it on your on your foot and break your toes like I did :eek:
 
The Lucas oil additive wont do much for a LSD- Been there, done that. I'd still go spend $15 at Dodge for the friction additive, and put it in. I'd prefer a little extra slip, and know I can corner properly, than have it grabing around corners all the time.



-DP
 
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