Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Rear end torque steer

[JosephGage]

I have a '99 2WD with 4. 10. When accelerating/under load, the rear wheels SEEM to turn at different rates, giving the effect of slight torque steer from, obviously, the rear end. Alignment is perfect. Steering seems fine (as good as it can be on these trucks anyway. ) In a straight line, under steady throttle/load, truck tracks straight and true. Applying or releasing torque, however, produces this effect of the truck thrusting to the left (throttle on) right (throttle off. ) This effect is worse when towing, because of the effect of the weight at the rear trying to handle the extra sudden sway. I've also checked springs, shackles, shocks. Everything appears in order. Could my diff be applying power in a way that would cause this sloppy handling? Thanks in advance for any help/advice.

 

[thomasrmmr]

check the springs on the rear possible broken center pin bolts or the bigger u shaped bolts loose streched - broken n rear is moving ,also check for broken springs p9ossible , tom

 

[HBarlow]

I don't know if Dodge Rams have bushings in the spring eyes (spring ends) but worn spring bushings will cause that problem.

 

[DSeamans]

Same thing

Mine is doing the exact same thing! I have been trying to figure it out for months. I had a suspension dude look at it and all he found was the right frt bushing in the spring was moved over a bit. I've been too busy to tear it down and go through it totally. Let us know what you find.



Dave

 

[thomasrmmr]

also do you have a matched set of tires on rear ? if 1s bigger n the other ? well ?

 

[CAPTPHIL]

Dave,
I have the same problem, you think yours is bad now try 4. 10s. This increases as you put power to the ground. What causes this is the frame twists and takes weight off of the right front wheel. This was a common problem in the early to mid 60s, when we were running the compact and mid-size cars with lots of power at the drag strip. Our trucks have a two piece channel frame that isn`t as stiff as the box frame in the newer models. My twist increased when I went to 4. 10s at 400000mi. Thats the price for lots of TORQUE. Enjoy the twist.

 

[thomasrmmr]

i had a 98 w/ 4. 10 104000 miles and no torque twist , what your referring to is when your excellerating hard with slicks and high power spinning the tires especially ,if that s the case put more weght in r/ rear of bed maybe 50lbs to 1000 lbs see if it stops ? i dont think so !

 

[thomasrmmr]

also my 98 ,, i lived on a hill and driveway was a hill at 90 " to it and when i backed out my right rear tire was off the ground a good 10 " the chassis was very stiff !

 

[thomasrmmr]

how are the axles in banjo housing is it possible you broke an axle probably the l/side with a locker type rear or heavy dana [ i never got mine to ratchet ] you might have a broken axel in the rear tube ?also

 

[CAPTPHIL]

Thomas,
I didn`t mean to infer that was a problem with stock or mildly mod. , I do know that is my problem. I was talking about Dave`s problem because his mods are similar to mine, check our signature`s. SORRY for the confusion.
Phil Thomas

 

[Schumacher]

rotate tires front to rear. if it goes away it is most likely a seperated belt.

 

[DSeamans]

Frame twist

I don't think mine is frame twist. I've been running similar mods since 20k miles and now have 215k. It started a year ago and has been getting worse. It is actually the worst when I let off in a corner and the jake kicks in. It darts to the side and when I step back on it it darts the other way. Its not up front as I just replaced everything. And, I can actually feel the rear swinging out. It feels like a loose racecar sliding out going into the corner. If the rear leafs are moving, or even flexing and twisting under torque at different rates- it would act like rear steer. The frt of the right spring riding against the frame and the bushing hanging out makes me lean to the springs. I may grab a new set this week and swap them out.



Dave

 

[DSeamans]

Wow what a difference

Today I replaced the springs and shackles. The axle u-bolts were worn/rusted half through where the went through the lower plate. The bolts in the shackles were rusted so tight it was like they were welded. The shackles weren't moving at all, really stressing the springs. What a difference in ride and handling! No more rear steer going in a corner or accelerating or letting off the go pedal.



FWIW - The bonehead at the spring shop kept trying to get me to buy the 6 layer spring (part #34-1345). I made him give me the 34-1343, which is a 3+1 progressive spring. He tried to tell me the 45's were heavier rated. The 45's are 2800# and the 43's are 2860#. The progressive gives a nicer ride empty and when loaded gives the whole resistance. A very nice spring!



Dave

 

[JosephGage]

Thanks DSeamans... from everything I read, this sounds like my problem. Is it true that to the naked eye, you could not see these problems? Only after disassembly you discovered the rear suspension wasn't working properly?

 

[DSeamans]

You might be able to see if you lift it up by the frame and watch the shackles. The only movement in mine was what little the bushings would twist. After my springs were laying on the ground, I could see that they were bent. About 6" in front and behind the axle they had a slight tweek from the axle pushing up and the springs not extending due to the shackle. I had to cut the shackle bolts out with a torch they were rusted so tight. The u-bolts were worn half way through at the bottom plate.



Dave