2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Rear End

[SHobbs]

Will be replacing the oil seal on the axle soon (passenger side) and was wondering if there are special tools that are needed. If I am not mistaken I think I have the Dana 80 under mine. This is the only truck I have owned that has had an oil seal go on the rear.



Figured that since I am doing the seal I will do the bearings as well, inner and outer. Anything special needed there? Brakes will go on as well as well as the GMC brake cylinders. Also what size socket needed to get the tail shaft off the transmission? Dang seal on the rear of transmission is leaking as well.



Gotta git-r-done before the trip to Wolf Creek in March, gonna do some skiing and don't want to worry about anything going south which such a long drive.



Thanks in advance, Scott

 

[csutton7]

yep you have a Dana 80---I don't think you need anything special--but hopefully someone who's done the seal replacement will chime in, but I do believe it's pretty straight forward--chris

 

[CumminsPower98]

To replace the wheel seal the only special tool you will need is a 2 9/16" hub nut socket. These don't cost a lot and most parts stores have them. No point in replacing the bearings unless you have a huge amount of miles or something is wrong with them. These beargings will go forever. Just make sure you fill the hub with some new oil before you put it together and then when done park it on a slant for a little bit so the oil will run over there and fully fill it up. This is how I do it anyway as I would rather not mix pre lube grease in with things. Be real careful not to scar the inner surface of the hub when removing the seal and use a little RTV on the seal to make sure it seals in the hub.



I am not clear on what you are wanting to remove to replace the rear transmission seal. As far as I know all you need to do is pull the drive line out and R&R the seal.

 

[SHobbs]

Cumminspower,



I was under the impression that the drive shaft needed to be removed and then remove the rear portion of the transmission (tailshaft). Maybe I did not call it right, the part where the driveshaft connects to. The oil in the hub is the same as what goes in the diff. correct. I will change be changing the rear end fluid at the same time.

 

[CumminsPower98]

Ok, I got my head on now. I'm too used to 4WD trucks since that's what I have worked on mostly, in Dodge trucks anyway. Yes you do need to remove the drive line of course like we both said earlier and the yoke at the transmission but I'm sorry I don't know what size that nut is. The 4x4 trucks just have a slip yoke there so removing the drive line is all that has to be done.

 

[SHobbs]

Cumminspower,



Thanks for the info.

 

[SHobbs]

This is nuts, no one knows the size of the nut that holds the tailshaft to the transmission. No one has any input, come on I know there are members that have done this work on their trucks.

 

[SHobbs]

Ok last time on this. I know that some members have taken the tail shaft off the transmission to do the fifth gear fix. What size tool or special tool is needed to get it off to do the seal at the rear of the transmission?



Also for the first time I need to do the axle seal on the passenger side rear. This is the first truck I have ever owned that has had this seal go out. Anything I need to look for or watch out for? If I understand it correctly the axle shaft, drum, and brake assembly needs to come off. Is the 2 9/16 hub nut socket is needed for for taking the adjustment nut?

 

[CumminsPower98]

Still can't help you on that socket size, sorry. You do not have to remove the brakes, just the drum, axle and hub. Be careful to check the seal surface on the spindle to make sure it's smooth. Also make sure the inside of the hub is smooth and use a little RTV when you install the seal to make sure it seals to the hub. You shouldn't have to do that most times but I just got in the habit of it when installing seals so I don't have to wonder if it's sealing or not.

 

[SHobbs]

Cumminspower,



I will do the cylinder swap while I am in there and the brakes are the originals so what the heck might as well do them too. As I said we have a long drive in March and I do not want any surprises. I was curious about whether the brakes needed to come off or not, I aprreciate the info. I thought I would have to take it all off to get to it.

 

[KHelfrich]

i know on my nv5600 i never had to take the transmission apart to change the rear seal i have a 4x4 but i think it is basically the same of a 2wd you just take off the drive shaft it is just a slip yoke at the transmission and then pull the seal and press a new one in



when doint the hub seal make sure you pull the retainer off the net first its just a little peice of metal but the hub nut has plascti threads and i forgot to pull the retainter and destroyed the hub nut and that hut costs about $20-30



ken

 

[cojhl2]

I assume you are doing both sides. You started the thread by discussing the passenger side oil seal.



If yer gonna mess with brake stuff you wanna keep'er balanced for sure.