Rear Main Replacement

[cummins_crewcab]

Alright, anyone with the service manual handy care to fill me in on any special procedures on doing a rear main on my engine? I'm an ASE certified master engine machinest/overhauler so I have experience in this but never on a cummins, well, never on a diesel period. I'm assuming I can slide the transmission/tcase assembly back enough to get access, does the crank need to be dropped? Any diagrams so I can see what it looks like before I get in there? Or anyone with experience that could point out some stuff to watch for would be great.

 

[ThomasLawrence]

Looks pretty straight-forward. There's four diagrams, but they don't show anything special.



<B>REMOVAL</B>

(1) Disconnect the battery negative cables.

(2) Raise vehicle on hoist.

(3) Remove the oil pan drain plug and drain the engine oil. Re-install plug and torque to 50 N·m (44ft. lbs. ) torque.

(4) Remove transmission and transfer case (if equipped) from vehicle.

(5) Remove flywheel or torque converter drive plate.

(6) Disconnect starter cables from starter motor.

(7) Remove starter motor and transmission adapter plate assembly.

(8) Remove four (4) oil pan rear bolts. Slide a feeler guage between the seal retainer and oil pan gasket to break the seal.

(9) Remove the six (6) retainer-to-block bolts.

(10) Remove the rear seal retainer and gasket.

(11) Support the seal retainer and drive out the crankshaft seal with a hammer and suitable punch.



<B>INSTALLATION</B>

(1) If using the old seal retainer, the crankshaft seal must be replaced.

(2) Inspect oil pan gasket for nickes or cuts. If gasket is damaged, the oil pan must be removed and gasket must be replaced. Wipe oil pan gasket dry and apply light coating of RTV.

(3) Using the retainer alignment/seal installation tool provided in the seal service kit, install the alignment tool into the retainer and install to the cylinder block, using a new gasket. Tighten the six (6) mounting bolts by hand.

(4) The seal alignment tool is used to align rear cover properly. Starting with the center two bolts, tighten the retainer in a circular pattern to 10 N·m (89 in. lbs. ). Remove the alignment tool.



<B>CAUTION: The seal lip and the sealing surface on the crankshaft must be free from all oil residue to prevent seal leaks. The crankshaft and seal surfaces must be completely dry when the seal is installed. Use a soap and water solution on outside diameter of seal to ease assembly. </B>



(5) Make sure the provided seal pilot is installed into the new crankshaft seal. Use the alignment/installation tool and press the seal onto the crankshaft. Alternately drive the seal at the 12, 3, 6 and 9 o’clock positions.

(6) Remove the alignment tool and trim the retainer gasket even with the oil pan mounting surface.

(7) Remove the seal pilot.

(8) Apply a small amount of Mopart Silicone Rubber Adhesive Sealant to the oil pan rail T-joints.

(9) Install the four (4) oil pan rear mounting bolts and torque to 28 N·m (21 ft. lbs. ).

(10) Install new rectangular ring seal for cam bore.

(11) Install the flywheel housing and bolts. Torque bolts to 77 N·m (57 ft. lbs. ).

(12) Install the flywheel or converter drive plate. Tighten bolts to 137 N·m (101 ft. lbs. ).

(13) Install the starter motor and torque to 43 N·m (21 ft. lbs. ).

(14) Install the transmission and transfer case (if equipped).

(15) Lower vehicle.

(16) Fill the crankcase with new engine oil.

(17) Connect the battery negative cables.

(18) Start engine and check for oil leaks.



-Tom

 

[rbattelle]

Wow.



I hope I never have to do that... or at least not before I'm old enough to have acquired a more "proper" home workshop and tool set.



Jason - if possible, snap a few pics of the seal itself before/after removal and replacement...



-Ryan

 

[ThomasLawrence]

I hope I never have to do that

The hardest part is pulling the transmission/xfer case (done that twice now - gettin' pretty good at it ). The next hardest part is probably pulling the starter (and I'm not convinced it really needs to come out - it didn't for the transmission swap, even though the FSM said to remove it. ). It may have to, because of the adapter plate removal. It's not a fun thing to remove - especially the first time (the factory-applied clearcoat really locks the bolts in). They're 10mm 12-point heads, and there's not a lot of room to work. The top bolt has to come out with a wrench - no room for a socket - and it takes a fairly strong hand to break it loose, becuase again there's not much room for leverage.



But once those components are out of the way, the rest of the job is simple



-Tom

 

[rbattelle]

The hardest part is pulling the transmission/xfer case (done that twice now - gettin' pretty good at it ).

-Tom

Tom, why do you keep pulling your transmission? I assume it's not "just for fun".



That gives me an idea. Imagine if a shop offered a class on your vehicle (i. e. 3rd gen Ram Cummins) where they disassemble and reassemble the vehicle and you get to help. I think I'd pay good money to take a class like that.



-Ryan

 

[ThomasLawrence]

Tom, why do you keep pulling your transmission? I assume it's not "just for fun".

Well, the first time was to swap in an ATS transmission (shown here). The second time was to replace a delaminated front band (shown here).

I think I'd pay good money to take a class like that.

Well, heck - come on over! This semister, we'll be covering injector and camshaft swaps. Be sure to read chapter 9 of your FSM, and don't forget your wooden dowels. Tuition is a cold 12-pack - payable at the time of the class



-Tom

 

[rbattelle]

Tom, you have a very impressive shop. Is that your home, or your business?



And those articles you've got should really be in the TDR...



-Ryan

 

[TX Gooseneck]

I had mine replaced when they did my transmission.

 

[ThomasLawrence]

Tom, you have a very impressive shop. Is that your home, or your business?

Thanks, Ryan. It's just my home shop. It's amazing how many friends you make when you can fix their vehicles for them A buddy was over the other day - needed new LCA bushings welded in on his Nissan... local shop told him it was an all-day job, at around $1,000. We did it in about 2 hours, for a cost of about $30 in bushings.



-Tom

 

[JStieger]

Tom-



One more question: Is there a gasket, seal, or silicone between the transmission and the transfer case? I have a leak originating from there that I eventually want to fix (without a lift and transmission jack :{ !)



Thanks!

 

[ThomasLawrence]

Is there a gasket, seal, or silicone between the transmission and the transfer case?

They recommend that you put a bead of silicone around the mating surfaces, but that's just to keep grit out. The output of the transmission and the input of the transfer case each have their own seals, so if you're leaking ATF, it's from one of those two seals.



-Tom

 

[Kirwin]

Questions for Tom

How tall is the ceiling in your garage? I built a garage about a year ago with a 12 foot ceiling height and I'd like to have a lift like the one you have. Did you reinforce the concrete that the lift posts set on? Thanks Ken Irwin

 

[ThomasLawrence]

Ken,



The ceiling height is 14' - I did that to accomodate the extra height I ordered on the two-post lift (went with Eagle's 13' extended height). Their standard-height two-post lift comes in just under 12' (with a whole 0. 5" to spare). The four-poster stands much shorter - maybe 7' total. It lifts to 6', so at max height, a stock truck is close to the ceiling, but doesn't touch (fortunately, I offset the A/C ductwork forward enough that the cab of the truck clears it).



As for the concrete, I didn't do any special reinforcing, as the floor was poured with a 3500psi mix to 4". I did dig out a little more in the area where the posts would anchor, to maybe 6". It's been in for about 4 years, and shows no signs of cracking.



-Tom

 

[jackcaptjr]

Nice shop Tom... ..... I looked at the two poster but ended up with a 12,000lb four poster. Got a little nervous at the thought of putting 8,000lbs up on a balance beam. I too built with 14' clarence but put the lift out side... ... ... Not as cold here in Texas. Have a great day

 

[ThomasLawrence]

Got a little nervous at the thought of putting 8,000lbs up on a balance beam. I too built with 14' clarence but put the lift out side... ... ... Not as cold here in Texas.

It's really not that bad... the truck has decent stability on the two-post. I wouldn't do any serious work under it without safety stands, but putting it in the air isn't as nail-biting as you would suspect. There's just some jobs that are a lot easier with the suspension hanging freely. As far as the outdoor lift, yeah - you have an environment where you can do that. Snow and corrosion are more of an issue here - besides, sometimes it's just too darn hot to be working outside - much more comfortable inside the shop with the A/C cranking out 72° air. Oh yeah, and I don't get wet when it rains



-Tom

 

[Kirwin]

Tom just a couple more questions

Are you saying that I can't get a lift that will fit in the garage with a 12' ceiling height? What advantages did you want that the 2 post had that the 4 post didn't? I know that my truck needs at leat 78 inches from bottom of the tires to the top of the cab. Don't ask me how I know this, it wasn't a pretty picture I assure you! :{ I put a 6 inch thick floor through out the garage in preparation for a possible lift someday. I also have A/C and heat in my garage and I agree, it sure is nice on those hot humid Portsmouth days. It would be bigger, its 30 X 36, but there are those pesky zoning laws that limit garages to be a fraction of your house size. (I got a variance ) Why I'm really not sure as my garage looks better than several houses in my neighborhood. Ken Irwin

 

[ThomasLawrence]

Are you saying that I can't get a lift that will fit in the garage with a 12' ceiling height?

Not at all. As I said, the Eagle (and I'm sure Rotary, BendPak, etc. are similar) standard-height 10K symmetrical lift is 11'11. 5" tall. This lift uses a 6" cross-beam, meaning the ABSOLUTE maximum you could put a vehicle would be 11'5" in the air. Drop this down to 11' for a bit of clearance, and that puts the bottom of your truck's frame at about the 6' level. That's workable (being a bit taller, I just wanted a higher lift, and I spec'd the ceiling height accordingly).

What advantages did you want that the 2 post had that the 4 post didn't?

Well, the two-post lifts from the frame, while the four-post lifts from the tires (you drive onto it). With the two-post, wheel/brake/suspension work is much easier, because everything's hanging in the air.



I got the four-post mainly out of laziness... when you don't need the suspension hanging free, it's much faster to just drive onto the ramps than it is to crawl under and set the lift arms in position under the frame.

It would be bigger, its 30 X 36, but there are those pesky zoning laws that limit garages

One of my criteria when I bought this place was the ability to put up a large building without having to deal with any hassles. My shop is 56'x32', and while it did raise a couple of eyebrows at the township (mainly over concerns of it being a commercial establishment), there were no problems getting the permits. My shop is actually a few hundred sq. ft. larger than my house - AS IT SHOULD BE!



-Tom