Rear main seal part #

[QRTRHRS]

Stopped at a "big truck" shop for a rear seal. The part they gave me based on my serial number was Cummins part 3934486. I noticed later on the invoice slip it says rear/seal C8. 3. Now I am wondering if I have the right part or if it was just how their software is setup?

 

[Alaskaskiff]

QTRHRS,



I changed mine out during a clutch change. That is the correct part number. Pretty easy to put in. It is a dry seal, so make sure the crank is real clean and dry.

 

[QRTRHRS]

Thanks Andy,



Hate to get things ripped apart and not have the right part to go back together.

 

[HoleshotHolset]

I bought mine from the stealer back in May for like $50+ or some crazy figure like that. Still have yet to put it in... . saving up for some DTT goodies and praying that both my transmission and seal live long enough for me to fix 'em up.

 

[QRTRHRS]

$50, I paid a little more.

Instead of going to the Dodge stealer, I went to what I guess was the Freightliner stealer. Yeh well, my clutch came yesterday and the temps are forecast to be about 50 on sat so I bit it as usual. I can't get my bed in the garage so it tends to be drafty so have to seize the moment. At the rate I am losing oil, I can maybe extend my length another 2000 miles or so. That's why I gotta change it ASAP.

 

[JPS]

front seal #

Getting ready to do tab fix. Seems like earlier post gave Napa # and price of $25. 00. Can anyone find that post?

 

[GOODE11]

JPS



Front seal # is for a Chicago Rawhide from NAPA--24868. It doesn't look as nice as the one from Cummins (but Cummins is an hour away from me).



Hope this helps-





David

 

[RON'S RAM]

Is the rear main seal leak another common problem with the cummins? When i changed my oil the other day, I did notice oil on the bell housing and back of the engine. I thought it may be from the breather tube. Wiped it off, and I'll check it again. Are you guys out of warranty? Is that why you are replacing the seal youself?

 

[QRTRHRS]

Originally posted by RON'S RAM

Is the rear main seal leak another common problem with the cummins? When i changed my oil the other day, I did notice oil on the bell housing and back of the engine. I thought it may be from the breather tube. Wiped it off, and I'll check it again. Are you guys out of warranty? Is that why you are replacing the seal youself?

I think the front seal is more apt to leak. If you can degrease and pressure wash your engine off, maybe you can pinpoint the problem if there is one. I would not get too excited about a little seepage though.



And yes, I am out of warrenty plus, I don't know any reputable shops near me. I just finished buttoning up about midnight. I replaced my fuel lines while things were "wide open" so have to bleed it in the morning then test drive. I will say, whatever the shops charge to do clutch or seal work, (except the stealer), it's worth it. Not fun!

 

[HoleshotHolset]

I'm WAY out of warranty..... 168k miles and going strong.

From what I've heard, the rear-main is a bit of a problem area for the B-series..... no big deal... just find the time/courage to change it. I can see it being a big messy job under there, but I know it has to be done..... soon!



Matt

 

[sewman]

QRTRHRS,

I'm on my 3rd rear seal ,the 1st was def from fac. & this one just started leaking p*sses me off to ruined a good clutch!

Bob

 

[QRTRHRS]

Some suggestions.

Having been there done that with the seal for the first time, I have a few suggestions.



1. Research your manual and write your torque specs down.

2. Get a good transmission jack. I had considered one of those adaptors for a floor jack then found I could sign one out from work. The monster proved adequate for the 5spd.

3. Get a helper. Having someone on both sides to wrench would have saved my hips from crawling around. Man am I sore.

4. DC does not give you much room to pull the transmission out or put it back. After I knocked the throwout bearing arm off of the ball mount, I took the sawzall to the floor. Sometime, I will be pulling my carpet out and permenantly enlarging the hole in the hump and will make a custom plate to cover it. Just like the good old days when we put sticks in auto's.

 

[Alaskaskiff]

I found that a large piece of cardboard worked well for the poorman's creeper and kept the bruising minimized. I move as part of my work and the stadn-up wardrobe boxes (empty & flat) work real well.

 

[sewman]

Cardboard is better than nothing but I always keep some old carpet around for working under the truck. I use 2-pieces then I can pull one out when I run the jack in.

It is alittle tight under the shift tower & floor but I always got it in OK (the trans)

FWIW-Bob