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Rear Main Seal Repair FUBAR and Catalytic Converter longevity

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2004 5.9 surge at light throttle and stalling

2004 Injectors

CharlesHoward

TDR MEMBER
My old 2005 Ram Dually rear main seal leak that began over 2 years ago but was inconsequential having been barely driven or towed in the last 2 years became important after towing the RV for 900 miles and now parked on a nice Church Parking lot for the summer. Now my Ram has 170K miles on it.
I bought a Fel-Pro Rear Main Seal Gasket Set 2 years ago to keep in the truck and took it with me to the local Cedar Rapids IA shop I choose on Apr 26. The Fel Pro gasket broke so the shop installed a Cummins set.
But since last month the Truck is much noisier at Idle - but not at load...
Took the Truck back to the shop on May 7 for them to check it out. Put it on the Lift and all the new noise is coming from the Catalytic Converter. The loose pieces must get jammed up and quiet when under more pressure.... Hmm, maybe that explains the sulfur smell I've noticed recently around the truck at idle... I guess over 15 years and 170K years is not bad for a CAT? (Have never gotten that many miles on any car we've owned).
But while on the lift the Rear Main Seal leaked Oil drip drip drip on the shop floor! We'll see how their warranty handles that...
So, is it that hard to install a Rear Main Seal (or could there be another leak source there?)?
Should I pay over $500 just for a new CAT plus installation or maybe just install a muffler myself (have sawzall will demolish - just like the CAT thieves!)?
Suggestions?
Thanks!
 
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Thank God the Shop supplied the Seal - so it's warranties. As soon as you bring the parts they deny warranty.
I learned that the hard way.
 
You should have the shop put a new cat on. Easier to sell in the future and no trouble with the way the EPA is going...

Yes, there are other leak sources in the area. I would check the valve cover gasket with a mirror myself.
 
I agree with @Tuesdak . Any engine oil leak from above can work its way down to the lowest point, which is usually the bottom of the bellhousing. I would pressure wash the engine and then use some brake clean to clean away any oily residues. Inspect the engine for leaks each time you make a trip. You should be able to find the source. Don't rely on a shop to do this. It takes time and time is money. It would not surprise me if the original rear main seal never leaked.

- John
 
Make sure #10 in this drawing is replaced.

5FFB2A2A-0160-4B0D-9DB5-AEB73AD8B011.jpeg
 
Hmm, I thought #10 was included in the kit...
While I was there they did remove the "half moon" housing at the bottom and to them the oil there indicated it was the rear main seal...
or could the "crank be grooved and need a wear sleeve" as someone else suggested...
 
While I was there they did remove the "half moon" housing at the bottom and to them the oil there indicated it was the rear main seal...

I am not saying that it couldn't the rear main seal leaking, but to me, the observation is not conclusive. Oil can run down the back of the engine and get inside of the bell housing since there is not a gasket between the engine and the bell housing. If it were my truck, I would make sure there are no other sources for the oil leak before I tackled the rear main seal again.

- John
 
Hmm, I thought #10 was included in the kit...

To the best of my knowledge, Cummins doesn’t offer a “Kit”, just the individual seals. I would ask specifically if it was replaced. It’s a pretty common source for a leak, especially after the main’s been replaced. It’s generally overlooked and the old one gets put back in.
 
4945701 Rectangular Ring Seal. It goes in the adapter plate and seals it against the back of the block around the cam bore.

9E683388-D19A-40E0-A636-0A1A10586B1C.jpeg
 
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My oil leak was the front timing cover and seal. running down the oil pan and dripping from the adapter plate,... looked like a rear main until I cleaned it all up and saw where it was actually comming from.
 
The Shop repaired it for free under warranty and indicated "old seal had not fit properly due to aftermarket. Seal had been chewed up by the flywheel. Removed old seal and installed new Seal."
Hmm, original repair indicated my Fel-Pro seal crushed while being installed and Cummins rear main seal was installed....
Will see if it leaks again....
Quoted me $1k for a new Catalytic Converter and 1.5 hours labor for a total of $1200! I don't think so!
 
Just to follow up.
I bought a Magnaflow Direct Fit Catalytic Converter from XDP for $890 (Total) thinking I could install it myself by cutting out the old CAT with my trusty on the IOWA jobsite reciprocating saw and noting the exhaust pipes were "just" clamped together.... That worked fine. I was able to remove the clamps but as previously advised I could not remove the rusted solid remaining connecting pieces of the exhaust pipe...
So a Professional Muffler shop charged me $149 (included extra $15 to WELD the new CAT on versus my old clamps) to heat up the old pieces enough to remove them and weld the new CAT on. So I saved a little money on a "upgraded" (?) CAT and installation, albeit I could have saved a lot more I suppose with just buying the Magnaflow $500 NOT DITY CAT since I had to use a Muffler Shop anyhow.

On our way home in TN the strangely recurring "LOW BOOST Pressure" code I had to clear several times earlier with my $60 scanner "disabled" the Truck, but
fortunately a Diesel Shop near our second Campground stop was able to check things out and their Scanner could conclusively clear the Code for a successful remainder of out Towing Journey.

And since home in AL TWO NEW trans fluid leaks - first a hose and now the Trans Dipstick connection.... My local Shop is fixing those... $
 
Thanks for the explanation for the Dipstick leak! Glad its not just "this old Truck" failure necessarily.
Forgot to mention I did get $98.88 for sending in my old Catalytic Converter to XDP.
 
My Cat is now attached with band clamps as is my whole exh system, doesn't crush the pipe that way.
I cut off the crushed part and welded on short pieces of 4" SS.
 
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