2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Rear pinion seal parts

[1tuffram]

Looking at replacing the rear pinion seal in my '95. Where is a good parts source? I can find Mopar or Spicer/Dana parts online for around same costs. Not sure if Mopar parts are re-packaged Spicer/Dana or something different. One Dodge dealer said they thought the pinion seals where a Moog part.

 

[HHhuntitall]

They won't be Moog, unless something has changed in the last few months. Chrysler should be Spicer or Dana. For a pinion seal, I'd go with those..... Unless you can get the good double lip seal from somewhere. With the 5 speed, I presume the you have the Dana 80, which should use the generic National Seal #4525V If you don't have an excessive groove worn in your yoke, it should work fine. If you have a deep groove, I'd suggest a National #99253 wear sleeve to go on under the seal. The national seals are cheaper, and usually work fine. The seals from Chrysler are usually a better seal, and I try to use them when I can, but I don't always want to go all the way to the dealership... ... .

 

[1tuffram]

Will the Spicer/Dana seals have the double lip?

For those who have replaced thier pinion seal is it necessary to get all those special Miller Tools listed in the Factory service manual (Yoke holding wrench, Yoke remover, Yoke installer tool, pinion seal remover and pinion seal installer)?? I was thinking that the Miller tool pinion seal installer (D-187B) and pinion seal remover tool (7794A) might be a good idea. I have seen mentioned here that the Craftsman large 2 Jaw puller can be used to remove the yoke, but does the special miller D-191 yoke installer tool have to used to re-install the yoke??? Just trying to figure out what tools are required vs what ones that help make the job easier but are not really necessary.

 

[HHhuntitall]

:-laf I don't have many of those tools... ... I pull the yoke, pry out the seal, driveit back in with a piece of pipe I have lathe cut to fit the seal, reinstall the yoke mostly, and seat it with the nut. The Dodge Brothers haven't rolled out and gotten me yet..... I've done several just this year. The pipe is easily found and made. Just find one that fits to the outside on the metal part of the seal so you don't get the inner rubber.



I do us a good puller to pull the yoke. It's a large pulley/gear puller. It can be reversed to use the jaws on the seal, if it's especially stubborn. Sometimes, the yoke needs a little tap with pressure on it to make it start moving.



The last Spicer seals I used had the double lips. They just looked better made than the National's, but both have held up well. I think the wear sleeve has a lot to do with a good install, as it makes it a flat surface again.



The biggest thing I can think of is a thin walled socket to fit your pinion nut. I have to use a chromed 3/4 drive socket, but I can't remember the size... . a regular impact socket is too thick walled to fit down into the yoke. It's not for impact use, but... ... ... . it's got a lifetime warranty..... That nut is on there, so you are probably going to want to get or borrow a 3/4" impact, too. A regular 1/2" won't cut it. A good 1/2" might do it... ... . It's supposed to be torqued to 350-400ftlbs. If you use a breakover or big ratchet, you're gonna have fun trying to get it off. You're gonna have to have a cheater pipe and someone to hold the brakes for you... ... .

 

[Bob4x4]

The seal installation tool should be relatively inexpensive since it is plastic,mine is at least 15 years old so they do hold up well. Your biggest issue will be finding a socket that will fit. The OLD craftsman socket will fit the new craftsman or Snap-on will not. The od will not clear some grinding will allow them to fit

 

[1tuffram]

Do you happen to know what the outside diameterr measurement is for the old vs new socket? Or better yet do you know if a 1-7/8" socket that does not need to be ground or turned-down exsist? Sunex has a thin walled socket that is 65mm across.

At one time doing a search here on pinion seal leaks/replacement I found a thread where a guy showed pics of a Craftsman socket he turned down on a lathe and gave the measurement of. I can't find that thread after several attempts.

 

[HHhuntitall]

The socket I've been using the last 3-4 years is a Harbour Freight 3/4" socket, out of a 3/4" socket set..... I still can't remember the size. If I get one pulled in the shop, I'll try to remember to check and see what size it is.....

 

[1tuffram]

Are you using the large 2 arm Craftsman puller? I came across a couple pullers from Tiger Tool (#10850 and 10851), one is a pull-bar style and the other is a more affordable "flanged style" puller that looks similar the special Miller C-452 yoke puller the service manual calls for. There are several used Miller C-452 pullers on Ebay for about twice the cost of the Craftsman 2 jaw puller. I don't want to get the Craftsman puller to find out it dosn't work and have to make a second purchse of something that does work.

When torquing down the pinion nut do you need something like the Miller 6719A yoke holder wrench? I assume the yoke wrench is to keep the differential from spinning or relieve stress on internal components while tightening the pinion nut. I was wondering if the parking brake or someone pressing on the brake pedal would substitute or does the yoke wrench need to be used to prevent stress/damage on drive train components when torquing the pinion nut?

 

[1tuffram]

Finally found the thread with the socket dimensions, but can't seem to get the attatchment pics to show up
01-16-2009, 10:12 PM#5




JMarinaccio





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Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: MT
Posts: 207






These are the tools that I used for my Dana 80:

The top is of course the socket I had to have turned down to fit into the yoke. If I had to do it again I would use an impact socket because they come in a six-point configuration. This leaves more meat at the corners of the nut after machineing. The size is 1 7/8"

The lower picture is the press I built to get the yoke back on. In past instances with other vehicles I was able to force the yoke back on with the nut. However, with my Dana 80 if I tried to hold the yoke so it wouldn't spin while forcing it back on the pinion shaft with the nut it wouldn't work. The combined twisting and pushing action would bind the yoke on the shaft. To get it to work I had to press the yoke up against the bearing then hold the yoke and torque the nut to 450 ft/lbs. I can't say if the 70 and 80 are the same. Maybe someone else knows.


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Last edited by JMarinaccio; 01-16-2009 at 10:20 PM.


97, nv4500, 4X4, x-cab, kdp tab, frantz oil filter, gauges, 3. 54's, limited slip, Swains Springs add a leaf and overloads, transmission oil filter, straight pipe.



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[HHhuntitall]

I have used a Miller 2-3 jaw puller, but it has to set carefully on the flat edges of the yoke below where the bolts are..... I think it's a Miller I've got now. Either will work, but you will probably have to tap on it with a brass hammer or carefully with a heavy hammer to get it to start moving.

 

[1tuffram]

HHhuntitall,
If you remember can you check to see what the outside diameter is of the socket you have been using? It would be nice to find one that dosn't have to be ground or milled down to fit in the yoke. I wonder if there is a "special" socket made for this application, like an ultra thin wall design socket? I found OTC makes pinion sockets, but the smallest is SAE 2".

 

[HHhuntitall]

Ok, so I think this is the socket I've been using on the Dana 80. I don't have anything around without pulling the driveshaft to check it. But the O. D. is 2. 510". It's an 1 7/8" socket from Harbour Frieght (I know, I know, but the Matco truck is too dang expensive). I have several sets of 3/4", mostly cheap Chinky stuff. I keep my good SK set in my trailer... . it's older than I am, but I can't ever break it!! Good stuff!!

 

[1tuffram]

just to double check before I buy the 1-7/8" socket a standard length will work and a deep socket is not needed???

 

[JR]

Before loosening your pinion nut, I would scribe a good mark for reference when you put it back together. Im almost positive that preload is more important than torque when reassembling the danas

 

[HHhuntitall]

Umm, the socket in the picture is only around 1. 5" deep, and has taken several dozen apart..... Preload is set by the shims on top and under the pinion bearings. Torque the heck out of it, and it'll be fine.