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2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission rear pinion seal

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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Newbie to TDR

Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) dv ident

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Getting ready to do the pinion seal in rear of the 96 and was wondering what size 6 point socket I will need? Also I dont have a big enough torque wrench to retighten to the specs so I was thinking of marking where it is now and counting the turns and tightning to where it is now. Can I get away with doing that?
 
I'm not sure what size the socket is, but I know on my D80, a standard impact socket is too large on the OD. The socket had to be turned down on a lathe to fit.



as far as tightening, you will not be able to use that method. too much variable with the new nut and washer. You will need to use a new nut and washer. the nut is a pinch type... one use only. Also, you will need a two jaw puller to remove the yoke from the pinion splines. Hopefully you have access to a beefy compressor and a very strong air gun, such as the IR 2131.



I have replaced the pinion seal a couple of times on my truck, with 58k on the clock. One piece of learned experience... go to dodge and get the factory seal. They are short money and worth the couple of extra bucks.
 
You can use the marking the nut method in my opinion using the old nut. I changed my D80 seal and put the nut back on with a 3/4" impact since I don't have a torque wrench this big either. Of course it would be best to have the torque wrench. Mine is working just fine and has been for a long time. These rear ends are set up with shims and not compression sleeves so the nut torque is not as critical as you might think. As long as it's good and tight it will be fine. I have rebuilt many rear ends including one D80 with no trouble. I have reinstalled used pinion nuts plenty of times also. I know it's recommended to replace the nut with just one use but they don't get loose enough to be a problem this fast. If there is any question apply some thread locker.



Sorry I don't know the socket size. I assume yours is a D70 since the truck is a 2500 and auto?
 
Thanks guys for the info This may be a good excuse to go and buy that Ingersol rand impact gun i always wanted. I assumed a dana 80 with 70 outer hubs was the norm for my year truck? It is 8800 gvw.
 
Your truck should have the D70. I've done the seal on mine without the impact... just a big breaker and a cheater pipe. I also didn't need a puller, the pinion just came off... . don't know it they are different than the 80. Mines been fine for about 50K.
 
I had to use a puller on both D80s I have worked on. Look at your hood label to find out what axle it has but I'm pretty sure it's going to be a D70 since it's an auto. As far as I know the only time the D80 was used behind an auto was in the 3500.
 
If it's a 70, the nut is 1 5/16. Just helped a friend with his this past weekend. Go ahead and get you a speedi sleeve before you start just in case. Make sure you have a torque wrench that will go to 250# as well. I believe that is what the pinion nut torques to.

Barry



edit: By the way, you will need a good quality chrome socket as well because on most impact sockets the OD is too large to fit inside the yoke.
 
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My experience changing the pinion seal was similiar to some of the guys above. Had to use my 3/4 drive impact because I didn't have a 1/2 drive socket that was big enough. The 3/4 drive socket I used was chrome. Used a big 3 jaw puller to remove the yoke and it came off hard. Had to use a 1/2 drive impact wrench on the puller.



Also had to use a NAPA seal because the Dealer didn't stock it.

NAPA was $10. 00 cheaper and it has worked fine for 6,000 miles.

I recommend using sealer on the outside of the seal even if it comes with a bead already on it.

I made a seal driver in the lathe so I could drive the seal straight in instead of pecking round and round with a hammer.



Sand the yoke where the seal rides with some 600 grit sand paper to polish it alittle.

Reused the old nut and washer.



Kent
 
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