rear seal replacement question

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I've got no lift; is this something I'd want to farm out? Or is it something I can do myself? It cost me six quarts of oil on this trip!

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http://coffeewithJesus. homestead.com/web1.html 89 1-ton, Amsoil System 3000 5-30,K&N air filter, cleaned-up exhaust, Dynomax straight-thru, rebuilt pump, 12cm wastegated turbo, thermostaticly controlled twin 14" electric fans, intercooler, modified 518 OD transmission, Gear vendors OD controler, R-134, louvered fenders, 93 aftermarket smoothe grille; 78 35'Avion, 93 Lance 900 slide in with generator and power jacks. Jesus saves!

 

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J, You didn't say if it's a D or W (2 or 4 wd) Do you have the room to get the truck up real high and a nice wide,level driveway? Find out weather the adapter housing has to come off, if it can stay on and you have a 2wd and have the facility and maybe a friend to fall back on and of course, time. I say try it, but not without a shop manual.

 

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If you don't have an engine hoist, you will have to farm it out. The rear seal on mine (its 1991) is like an axel seal, round and in 1 piece. You have to remove either the motor or trans to get it out. But with that much oil leaking, you might to check the lower end of the motor for problems, sounds like your main bearings might be loose. Also I found it was much easer to pull the motor by taking the entire front clip off first.

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1985 DODGE 1 ton Crew Cab(imported from California with no rust) W/8' box converted to 4X4(wasn't that hard to do!) in 1999,converted to a 1991 Cummins Turbo diesel & 5 speed Getrag in 2000(wife can't drive a stick . 4:10 gears, limited slip rear end, 205 transfer case, 16" Goodyear GSA Wranglers and LE Package and a Sony CD Stereo. A one of a kind truck(Wish Dodge would build a new Crew Cab in 1 ton. Last year for the Crew Cab was 1985)If you want to know why I did all of this, 2 kids, one on the way and I can't stand Ford and Chevy. Kyle Hoover ,Fruitport, MI

 

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Hey, just my two cents worth but... . I have a 4x4 and here's what I did. Drop rear drive shaft. Put transmission jack under transmission / transfer case. Unbolt trans from engine and unbolt transfer case and transmission from cross members. (Can't remember but I think I took out cross member) Undo linkage and roll trans and transfer on transmission jack back about 5"-6". You can get in and replace seal. It took me and a friend about 4 hrs. to do job on flat concrete floor inside garage.

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93,CC,4X4,LE,Auto/3. 54. Banks intercooler/exhaust,K&N,PW injectors, 14cm2 wastegated turbo, "timed" pump, Walker "flow-thru" muffler,Emerald Grn. w/ SS running board,Grizzly Grill Guard.

 

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Thanks Billy and others, I'm gonna give it a try. The guy who built my transmission OUGHT to do it free! I told him to do it when he built my transmission and he said he did, but he didn't!

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http://coffeewithJesus. homestead.com/web1.html 89 1-ton, Amsoil System 3000 5-30,K&N air filter, cleaned-up exhaust, Dynomax straight-thru, rebuilt pump, 12cm wastegated turbo, thermostaticly controlled twin 14" electric fans, intercooler, modified 518 OD transmission, Gear vendors OD controler, R-134, louvered fenders, 93 aftermarket smoothe grille; 78 35'Avion, 93 Lance 900 slide in with generator and power jacks. Jesus saves!

 

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When you replaced your trans was the pump bearing gone or leaking from the front trans seal? My Cummins wiped out a rear seal and my pilot bearing was fried and I found out that the thrust bearing on the main bearing was shot. Also how is your oil pressure? Of course I only had about 625000 miles on it #ad
I am now rebuilding mine and going for an additional 1000000 miles

 

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CrewCabDiesel, 625,000 miles that truck of yours deserves a rest - just kidding. That is terrific.
----
Al

 

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When my transmission was replaced with a 518, the shop SAID they replaced the rear seal at my request. I don't believe it. It never stopped leaking. The truck hasn't even rolled over 100,ooo miles yet. The torque convertor was brand new and does NOT leak. My oil pressure stays at the third small hash mark when cruising and drops back to between the first and second small hash mark at idle. The oil light NEVER comes on unless the engine is shut down.

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http://coffeewithJesus. homestead.com/web1.html 89 1-ton, Amsoil System 3000 5-30,K&N air filter, cleaned-up exhaust, Dynomax straight-thru, rebuilt pump, 12cm wastegated turbo, thermostaticly controlled twin 14" electric fans, intercooler, modified 518 OD transmission, Gear vendors OD controler, R-134, louvered fenders, 93 aftermarket smoothe grille; 78 35'Avion, 93 Lance 900 slide in with generator and power jacks. Jesus saves!

[This message has been edited by jsimpson (edited 10-30-2000). ]

 

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I priced around on gettin' it done. Prices ranged from $390 to $1000. The shop that built my transmission and was supposed to replace my rear seal is sold to someone who won't back up the warranty. Guess its' time to jack it up and get started!

 

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This is so stinking typical it makes me want to puke. You pay GOOD money to get a job done and you end up with nothing! This website's server couldn't hold all the stories I have of me and my buddies getting the shaft on "professional" repairs on anything and everything from an AMC Pacer to a Nikon camera.

They might have actually replaced the seal but it has to be installed with the sealing lip DRY and with the crankshaft surface DRY and CLEAN-("Mechanic": You mean I can't just grab that new seal with my greasy hands and pound it in? Truck Owner: Do you mind if I do this part while you watch?) The outer part of the seal should be coated with Loctite 271 (expensive red stuff). If your crankshaft is worn at the seal lip location Cummins makes a service sleeve and oversize seal. If that shop has the same name as your receipt and your receipt shows a replaced seal then it's time for a good ole fashin' lawsuit in small claims court.

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'93 W350 Club Cab, Bright White, 5 sp. , 132K, Factory Options: LE, 4. 10 Limited Slip, 7600 lb. rear springs, tachometer, front stabilizer bar. Mods: Banks stinger plus, Linex bedliner, 25,000 lb gooseneck ball, 10,000 lb receiver, Tekonsha brake controller, POWER WAGON injectors-WAY faster than stock!.

 

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No mention on the receipt, just owner's "word. " Thanks for the installation tips. I'll need 'em.

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http://coffeewithJesus. homestead.com/web1.html 89 1-ton, Amsoil System 3000 5-30,K&N air filter, cleaned-up exhaust, Dynomax straight-thru, rebuilt pump, 12cm wastegated turbo, thermostaticly controlled twin 14" electric fans, intercooler, modified 518 OD transmission, Gear vendors OD controler, R-134, louvered fenders, 93 aftermarket smoothe grille; 78 35'Avion, 93 Lance 900 slide in with generator and power jacks. Jesus saves!

 

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Putting a new seal in Dry ? I could be wrong, but I have never heard of installing a seal of any type without putting some sort of assy. lube or grease on the seal lip first. and as for lock tite, it was already on the new rear seal that I installed on my 1991 Cummins during the rebuild, and it hasn't leaked yet (knock on wood!). I would check the manual on this to be sure ! #ad


Guess what, The seal does go in dry and does require lock tite for some makes of seals, per the Dodge service manual that I have for my 1991. If you would like I can send you a copy of that part of the service manual. I guess I should have read that part before putting my new seal in.

[This message has been edited by CrewCabDiesel (edited 11-03-2000). ]

[This message has been edited by CrewCabDiesel (edited 11-04-2000). ]

 

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Very important!!!! The trans does have to come out and it's heavy. The new seal comes with the installation tool and regardless of how you feel about it Cummins specifies to install the seal dry. The 1st generation trucks went thru many seal upgrades from the early days due to the rear seal problem.

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Chris
1997 5sp 4X4, HX40, BD 4" Brake, Marine Compression, Custom Tuned Injection Pump, 370B Injection Nozzles, Delivery Valves, Governor & AFC Spring Kit, Psychotty Air, Water Injection, 6" Chrome Exhaust System, No Smoke Valet Switch, McLeod Dual Disc Clutch, Mag-Hytec Rear Cover, Cummins Chrome Kit, Optima Red Tops, Hadley Bully Horns, Hurst Line Loc. Test mule for Auto Wurks race program