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Rear suspension hight

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Portable Genset noise

Tire pressure question

I have a 2001 3500 H. O. 2 wheel drive with a reese 15k fifth wheel. When I hook up my 5er (which only has 1800 lbs on the king pin) I have only approximately 6 inches clearance between the tail gate and the bottom of the trailer. When I go over a drop in the ground or pavement the vehicle tilts foreward to the point sometimes of hitting the tail gate lightly on the bottom of the trailer. The trailer's king pin has been lowered to a point in which the trailer now rides slightly nose high with the above problem occuring. Is there any way short of removing the block from the rear axle, or adding hight to the trailer's suspension to fix this problem? I have been told that I should have bought a heavier 5er and then I would be crying about some other problem and not this one. Help me out, if you can.
 
Originally posted by Extreme1

DC has a lowering kit available. I don't know the details...
i have a36' 5er was thinking about the same thing called travel supreme they recomened rather than flipping the axles . have a shop jack up the triler cut off the sprig hangers weld in a block to the frame at the height you want, than reinstall the road gear that was there recomendation . it looks like there's more than one way to skin that cat
 
The cheapest way to get around this is to remove the tailgate, that is if the trailer is hitting towards the center of the tailgate.



Next cheapest is to remove tailgate and replace it with a Pre-Runner net in lieu of the tailgate.



Slightly higher on the expense list has been mentioned, flipping the axles of the trailer.



Higher still is probably one of those flowthru tpye grated tailgates so many 'er haulers have.



Good luck.
 
If you just remove the tailgate won't you bash the box on a sharp turn (like a driveway)?



I'd go for the cut and weld on the trailre suspension... . But then... . I like FIRE!:D
 
I've been through the same thing. The axles had been flipped on the trailer, the hitch extended to the max. I added a 2" leveler kit. Still wasn't enough. The last resort, I had 4" of box steel added to lift my trailer to ride a safe distance from the bed. The 5th wheels aren't being built to be pulled by tall trucks. In the meantime, we end up making all the changes... good luck with it.
 
Thanks for the input

Thank everyone who replied. I think that the truck and 5er will have to remain as it is as the 5er is already pushing 13 ft. tall. I really don't want to increase the hight any more. I read something about a 2inch lever. What is it? Does it raise the front of the truck or does it lower the rear?
 
Raise the front?

You can get a Lift for the front suspension system and that will lower the rear. If you had the 4x4, there is a 2" spacer for leveling the truck but 4x2's are harder to lift. You can get smaller lift blocks for the rear with shorter u-bolts to lower the rear also.

Call a 4x4 shop and ask questions.

Good luck.
 
I too am currently going through this same problem. (Too tight at the tailgate section) I have 6 inches of clearance and actually had an appointment to have the block taken out of my 2001 QC 2wd but I cancelled it. I opted for loading it up with firewood and loading the trailer front heavy. This leveled out the trailer pretty good.

I had no problems on my first trip but I watched it closely. When we came back home, I noticed that the springs must have gave a little because she sits more level unloaded now. I checked into raising the trailer a little and the only legal way was to add stock to the frame and bring down the hangers. I could not find any shops that would add blocks to my trailer axles. They said it was illegal for trailers. I am at the point now where I might take out the truck block and move up the hitch one more notch to give 7. 5 inches of clearnce. It is a bummer to cut and re-weld on the trailer. If you do, make sure you go to a repitable shop and make sure they have done several of them. good luck

Ramon :)
 
MrFixit,



I had a suspension shop do my fiver, which is one of their specialties. It took 4" box steel to do the trick and then areinforcement bars across from hanger to hanger. Its far stronger than it was originially and there's no more worries about hammering down on the bed rails. Some day these RV manufacturers will build these things to fit our trucks. In the meantime, we're stuck doing the modifications. Good luck.



Jen
 
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