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rear u-joints

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WHamby said:
My truck used the 351. There is a significant difference in size. Just take it out and compare sizes under the truck as jwilliams3 suggested. Or buy them both and take the one you don't need back if you would rather check it at home.



Thanks for the quick reply! I'm gonna get both tomorrow and try to do it tomorrow night.



Blake
 
Will this topic ever go away???

4 wheelssmoking said:
universal joint #SP 5-188X from Spicer



Anybody got the number for the 6spds? Trying to help a guy out on another site. Can't find a Spicer # for the bigger ones.
 
The new AAM drivetrain uses AAM joints... spicer joints are oh so close, but if you look at them, they are slightly bigger (read: thousandths).



The driveshaft shop I had replace my rear driveshaft joints used spicer-type joints and simply thinned the retaining rings to allow them to fit. I plan to do this as well when I replace the joints in the front axle for the dynatrac install... greaseable spicer-type joints.



steved
 
Spicer U-joints

A few months ago I had my rear drive shaft u-joints replaced with greasable Spicer joints p/n DU 5-160X . The truck is an 03 HO 305/555 4x4 auto. The joints fit perfect with a zerk in the body. I watched while they were replaced. Hope this helps.
 
Precision 330/351

Just replaced all three rear joints on my 03 3500 DRW last weekend, this is the third set with 59000 miles on truck. Precision's website listed the 330 they were too small, referenced the 351 perfect fit. The 330 has a cap Dia. of 1 3/16". The 351 Dia. is 1 3/8". The crosses were the same dimension and the grease fitting is on the body. Hope the info helps.



Don
 
I put a 351 in yesterday and it fit "normal". Required some filing to remove burrs caused by removal and had to be pressed in with a vise, but that's "normal".



Blakers said:
The 351 fit with no problem. I had to cut the stock joint out though as it was in there so tight.



How come some guys need to file or grind, and some don't?



I've got a set of 351's sitting on my desk but the latest Precision catalog lists 351A as the correct number. I'm wondering whether there's any important difference.



Ryan
 
How come some guys need to file or grind, and some don't?



I've got a set of 351's sitting on my desk but the latest Precision catalog lists 351A as the correct number. I'm wondering whether there's any important difference.



Ryan



Funny you brought this topic back to the top, I had to replace my joints again last saturday. Last time I did them I used a 330, but I noticed this time when I got the new set it was listed in his book as 330A. Didn't seem to be any difference, got the old ones warrantied and my vibration is gone.
 
Maybe the distance from cap to cap is a hair shorter. I tried to install a 351 in the drive line on my truck last week. Couldn't get the snap rings in properly. Pulled it out and installed a carquest, I think is made by neapco, had to grind clearance on the u-joint boss of the rear drive shaft half, but the snap rings fit perfect. I noticed that the 351's have a plastic insert inside the cap, don't know how they would take being a little extra tight. The carquest didn't have plastic in them.
 
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