Here I am

2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Rear Wheel Cylinders

Attention: TDR Forum Junkies
To the point: Click this link and check out the Front Page News story(ies) where we are tracking the introduction of the 2025 Ram HD trucks.

Thanks, TDR Staff

Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) odd turbo noise(music)

2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission 2WD Lift ???

Status
Not open for further replies.
I was wondering if someone could tell if my truck has the larger wheel cylinders it is a 96 2500 4x4 with dana 80 and 8800 gvwr, if not will larger wheel cylinders help out my braking? :confused:
 
Rear cylinders

Your truck did not come with the larger cylinders. So it won't have them unless they've been retrofitted. I made the change, and it improved the braking on mine.
 
I did my '98 2500 also 8800gvwr, today. It had the smaller OEM cylinders.

I put the 1 ton replacements on it while doing a brake job because of leaking axle seals. I cant tell you if it helped much over the originals because I think my brakes have been coated with 90 weight since before I bought it :(
 
I put 1 3/16 chevy wheel cylinders in the rear on my '99. Here are some part #'s you can check out. Raybestos cylinder PN: 37337, Wagner cyliner PN: F79768,

EIS cylinder PN: EW79768. Check Autozone and Checker. Make sure they are made in the US. Have them pull off one of these and one for your truck from the shelf and compare them. Look at the bolt spacing and size (measure w/ruler), diameter of the round part (w/bolt holes, bleed valve, and hard line input) that fits into the backing plate, length of cylinder, and the ends of the cylinder where the shoes go into.



I found the reciept: Got mine from checker: PN 2037337 @ $16. 00 ea. PM or email me if you want more detailed info, Tony.
 
Mine were 15/16" and I put on 1 1/8". They did a lot of good to balance the front/rear braking - no more brake dust on the front wheels. Since then, I upgraded the front pads and I wish I had the 1 3/16" cylinders to balance things again. Craig
 
brakes

Here is a copy of an earlier post about using the GM wheel cylinders. I just ordered 2 but have not received them yet.



http://www.napaonline.com/cgi-bin/n...tail.d2w/report?prrfnbr=15557287&prmenbr=5806



GM wheel cylinders put in today... ..... day and night!!!!!

Took me less than 2 hours ( with clean-up and garage floor mopping) It is incredible how much better it brakes now. $30 something verses $600 for an exhaust brake is A-OK for me. I don't tow anymore, but I wanted to save myself the $ and headache of pads and every 6 months. THANK YOU to whoever gave the tip and NAPA part #'s... ... ..... I cant remember who it was. I am so stoked, now I can use the money I planned on buying Banksbrake for more mods.



Putting a little bit bigger rear wheel cylinders on the rear end of the older trucks to make the brakes work like they should have from the factory.



All the way up till the rear disc brakes came out, '01 or '02???.

Biggest advantage is on pre '97 2500s where the cylinders were 24mm but on 3500s and all post '97 trucks (27mm, the largest Dodge used) you definitely see an improvement as the cylinders GM uses are 30mm. There was a post here where someone figured out the increase in braking force as related to cylinder diameter. I don't remember the numbers but the percentage increase per mm was quite impressive.



Checked with NAPA and they said they have two versions of the SAME wheel cylinders:



4637337 $11. 49 (website price) TSW4637337



and



37337 $41. 49 (website price) UBP37337



The second number is supposed to be the "premium" one. What would be the difference in a premium wheel cylinder? <<... OLE_Obj... >>



See this link



http://www.napaonline.com/cgi-bin/n...rt_number=37337 <http://www.napaonline.com/cgi-bin/ncommerce3/ExecMacro/NAPAonline/search_results_part_num. d2w/report?Search_Part=YES&pn_exact=NO&part_number=37337>



The brake expert who originally told me of this mod said to use the cheap ones, that there is really no difference except price. I installed some of the expensive ones for a guy who said he'd rather "Buy American". On close inspection I can't tell the difference between the two and both are made in the US. They even weigh exactly the same.



Then my buddy who owns the local Napa clued me in on the real deal in the difference between the two. Professional mechanics like to use the more expensive ones because most mark the price to the customer up a set percentage. 10% of $41 is four times more profit than 10% of $11
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Mike: Thank you for the old post. Was looking for that info myself a while back. The cylinders I bought @ Checker were US made and looked just like the $41. 00 cylinders @ Napa. Napa here in Vegas didn't have the $11. 00. Even though the boxes were different, both (Checker & Napa cylinders) were made by Raybestos. Went to a few stores out of curiosity to compare. Found one cheaper at Autozone, but made in China. I wanted to stay away from the overseas products because I am worried about material quality. Particularly castings.
 
Hey, will this modification work on a 92 d250?? Truck is cummins 5 speed with a dana 70 (of course, you probably new that anyway) LOL
 
brake cylinders

Larry

I have only heard positive comments about upgrading to these larger cylinders so I assume that it causes no anti-lock problems.



Rubberneck

Don't know if they will fit the Dana 70s. Do a search in the first generation posts and maybe someone there will know.
 
I am doing a complete brake replacement on my 99 2500 . When I was ordering my rear cylinders the part store computer brought up the smaller cylinders for my 99 so I told him to check for a 2000 model year and it said 1'' dia. (27mm) so I ordered those. I was under the impression that my truck had the 27mm cylinders but I wont know if that is the case untill I remove them later this week. I realize that this post is concerning the further upgrade to 30mm cylinders but I need to know if I screwed up ordering cylinders for a 2000 model year truck. any input?
 
By the way the components that I selected for my brake rebuild are as follows: powerslot rotors,reman calipers,hawk heavy duty pads,new hoses all around,bendix oem organic shoes,new bendix drums,spring kit for rear and the cylinders mentioned above.
 
LarryWard said:
Is the antilock system unaffected by changing sizes of cylinders?





Your anti-lock will now work. My rear wheels never locked up until I installed the 30MM wheel cylinders. The difference between old and new is worth the $24 plus new brake fluid!





Ronco
 
I replaced my rear wheel brake cylinders with the Chevy 1-3/16" parts, Raybestos Sure Stop brake shoes and installed EBC dimpled/slotted rotors with Raybestos Quiet Stop brake pads. My brakes are like night and day. You can actually feel the rear brakes working unlike the sucky stock brake cylinders. The Raybestos Quiet Stop pads stop just as well as the Raybestos Sure Stop pads with hardly any brake dust.
 
It's interesting. I, too, put the larger cylinders in the rears. However since I did, I'm experiencing rear wheel lock-up more often than before. I know the anti lock system is working. I can feel it. Depending on the road surface and conditions (wet, icy, or a little sand/dirt), sometimes they'll chirp and skid a bit, then release, sometimes (rarely) no skid at all. Prior to the changing the cylinders, they virtually never locked.



I'm about due for new fronts. I've got the disks (EGR slotted) and carbon-kevlar pads. When it comes time, I'll swap out the calipers for EGR's superduty's. After the break-in ("brake-in"?) period, if I'm still having problems with the rears breaking loose, I may modify the rod to the proportioning valve by putting a turnbuckle in to make it adjustable.



The point is, I'm not sure the oversized cylinders were all they're cracked up to be.



-Jay
 
JGK:



Do you have 4wl abs?





I have the Wagner F79767 (1 1/8) on my from the oem 15/16". I like it.



I did a panic stop the other night with about 1000 lbs. in the bed due to someone pulling out in front of me. The 4 Whl ABS allowed for some lock and unlock "hop" (front and rear) as it does from time to time, but I was able to stop.



DC replaced much of the ABS under warranty, but the new components performed like the old ones, so I guess its the "nature of the beast. "



I've driven trucks with just the rear whl abs, that I believe stop better than my 4wl abs equipped model.



I also run the EBC rotors, Hawk's and Prem. Wagner lining in the rear. I did my first brake job at 146,000, so I guess I'm pleased so far.



My . 02.



Andy
 
I only have rear wheel abs and have yet to upgrade the cylinders. All I can say is the rear abs is, IMHO, absolutely awful. When mine kicks in it's like loosing most of the braking ability. Hold on cause you going for a ride. I'm a little fearful of changing to larger rear cyls. as I don't want to make the problem worse.
 
Andy Redmond said:
JGK:



Do you have 4wl abs?



Mine is rear wheel only.



vssman, I agree. When the rear anti-lock system releases, it feels a little like the rear end just found some wet pavement and the tires are just sliding. It's a pretty unsophisticated system, apparently (I'm being nice :rolleyes: )



-Jay
 
Unsophisticated??? Tell me about it! Sometimes I feel like I should keep a wheel chock on a rope in the cab just to toss out the window in case the abs goes off!!!
 
:D :D



OK. But having said all that, I must add that a good set of brake pads and rotors, and all 4 wheels adjusted, makes a world of difference.



As I said, my fronts are about due for overhaul. The rear shoes and drums are OK but need adjusting. I have a friend with a '98 quad cab auto short box 4X4 who put on EGR slotted rotors and carbon-kevlar pads last fall (still has stock calipers). We have the same size tires, too. However he does have the 4-wheel anti-lock system.



I've driven his and he's driven mine. His brakes are much, much better. The EGR components are a vast improvement. I haven't done a panic stop so as to activate the ABS, but a good, hard stop is really easy and predictable.



He says mine scares him to death! :-laf



So good components make a big difference. As for the rear cylinders, give them a try - they're cheap enough (NAPA version is under $12 each). Maybe you'll like them and maybe not.



-Jay
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top