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2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Rear Wheel Seals

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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Great Dealerships

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I have been wondering whether or not to change my rear axle seals as part of a routine maintenance. I have 145K on the clock and on inspecting the inside of the backing plate there is some slight staining, I presume from a small amount of fluid escaping. It's not wet to the touch but I am getting ready to migrate South with my 34' Alpenlite and wondered if I should go ahead and change them out. No noticeable drop in differential fluid level. I run Amzoil series 2000 75/90. Seals have never been changed.
 
The passenger side seal is prone to failure. If you have any sign that it might be leaking change it. Otherwise it soaks the brake shoes and ruins them. For some reason the driver's side lasts a long time.
 
I vote to change them ...

At home, in the shop, with all my own tools. They could go longer, but why spoil the vacation. A 2 9/16 ths socket is required. The nylock nut and retainer clip are easy to adjust IMO. I had to change my passenger side at 62,000 and tightened the drivers side bearings while I was at it.



Do you suppose the passenger side failure is as simple as an incorrectly calibrated tool on one side of the vehicle at the assembly plant. Or, Maybe the "fellow" on the right side is 4'10" and weighs 98lbs ---vs--- the "fellow" on the left is 6'3" and weighs 220.
 
My driver's side is the one that gives trouble. 164,000mi and no trouble out of the passenger side. I still haven't found what I consider a real fix (speedy sleeve did nothing). Last time it leaked I tried changing the bearings as well. That's only been about 5,000 mi so I can't say if that took care of it or not. It will usually go about 20,000 mi before coating everything with axle lube. Anyone else have a fix? I'm considering changing the hub if it does it again.
 
Is it the same reason my right rear wears a little faster?. The mighty Cummins puts gobs of torque to the rear and it goes to the ground on the right side first?



Ted - I'm one of those "if it ain't broke dont fix it" folks. I would not change it just before leaving as you might have a problem with the new seal which could mess up your trip. I'd rather have problems close to home. I always give any fixes/mods a few weeks of around home driving before heading on a trip. jmo...
 
I've always heard road crown also. Our trucks aren't the only vehicles that experience more pass side failures than drivers.
 
Here is how I fixed my First gen. When the hubs off (Dana 70), feel all the way around the area where the seal rides. Especially pay attention to the bottom. If you feel with your fingers all the way around, there should be a noticiable lip or edge. USUALLY the bottom will start to groove and undefine the lip or ridge that the seal and bearing ride on. An old mechanic (f@rds) told me to take a file and define or re-establish the ridge. Work very slowly and deliberately constantly comparing the feel of the top and bottom lip or ridge.



I know that this is not a very good description, but print it out and take it with you when you start working.



Also torgue the big nut down to 135 ftlbs. Everyone freaked out when I mentioned this on the First Gen. forum, but the old mechanic told me that f@rds have been running the Dana 70's since 1973. He has been torgueing the big nut to 130-135 for years. It's not what the book calls for, but I put over 25000 miles on mine before I sold it with no problems.



P. S. Speedi Sleeves NEVER worked for me... ... :rolleyes:



Good luck... . and your mileage may very.....
 
Thank you so much for those who have replied to my post. I'm going to pick up the socket and seals a NAPA today and if nothing else I'll check the preload. Thanks again.
 
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