Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) rearend is leaking fluid at where driveshaft meets

[VHolloway]

we where in fwd muding and when we got home we smelled oil

well the rearend fluid is leaking all over the drive shaft at the rearend

how do i fix it

 

[Bob4x4]

Time to replace the pinion seal... ... ... ... .

 

[Curious Dave]

Chock the wheels, apply the park brake, get a big pry bar, drop the driveshaft, install the correct socket and breaker bar, and give it all you got to get the pinion nut off. Knock up the edge of the seal, grab it with pliers and fight with it until it comes out. Gently tap the new one in and reassemble. Torque the pinion nut to spec. , reinstall the driveshaft. Check the diff. lube to make sure you haven't packed the diff. full of mud. Hopefully you won't need an impact or a 3/4 drive.

 

[johncameron]

Keep in mind the torque spec for tightening is 500FT/LBS!!!!

 

[tolmsted]

Keep in mind the torque spec for tightening is 500FT/LBS!!!!

500 ft/lbs!!!!! How do you get the leverage on that mother laying under the truck? I need to know as I'm my own warranty service. :-laf

 

[VHolloway]

what do you think a transmission shop would charge to do it

 

[Joseph Donnelly]

Pinion torque should be 350-450 ft lb usually. I use a long bar like 2x2x. 25” angle with two holes drilled for two of the u-joint capscrews to hold the pinion flange still. Then put a long pipe on a ¾” drive breaker bar and stand on it to tighten the nut. Use blue Loctite on the threads. When the bar gets “springy” and doesn't want to tighten any more, you are good. this method works for differentials with a solid spacer between the pinion bearings. For differentials with a "crush sleeve" you need to mark the pinion stem and the nut before removing the nut. When reinstalling, tighten the same number of threads plus a tiny bit more. Be careful because the bearings can "cock" just a bit and you may htink they are tight when they are still one thread loose. Rotating the companion flange a little during tightening is a good idea with either type of differential to be sure the bearings "seat" properly.





Before going to that work, clean the area and be sure the pinion seal is what is leaking. If the differential lube got hot and the fill level was high, you could have just forced some out of the vent hose.

 

[Curious Dave]

I'm thinking that a pound of hamburger in your shorts and a rabid Pit Bull should get you the correct torqe setting. Be careful to not snap the pinion. Let us know how it turns out. We are all patiently waiting. Oo.

 

[Bob4x4]

DESCRIPTION TORQUE

DIFFERENTIAL

Plug, Fill Hole 34 N·m (25 ft. lbs. )

Bolts, Cover 41 N·m (30 ft. lbs. )

Bolts, Bearing Cap 108 N·m (80 ft. lbs. )

Nut, Pinion 597 - 678 N·m (440 - 500 ft. lbs. )

Bolt, Ring Gear 272 - 325 N·m (200 - 240 ft. lbs. )

Bolt, Axle to Hub 123 N·m (90 ft. lbs. )

RWAL/ABS Sensor Bolt 24 N·m (18 ft. lbs. )

TRAC - LOK CASE BOLT

Standard 89 - 94 N·m (65 - 70 ft. lbs. )

Heavy Duty 122 - 136 N·m (90 - 100 ft. lbs. )

Nut, Hub 163 - 190 N·m (120 - 140 ft. lbs. )

 

[Bob4x4]

PINION SEAL

REMOVAL

Raise and support the vehicle.

Scribe a mark on the universal joint, pinion yoke, and pinion shaft for reference.

Disconnect the propeller shaft from the pinion yoke. Secure the propeller shaft in an upright position to prevent damage to the rear universal joint.

Remove the wheel and tire assemblies.

Remove the brake drums to prevent any drag. The drag may cause a false bearing preload torque measurement.

Rotate the pinion yoke three or four times.

Measure the amount of torque necessary to rotate the pinion gear with a (in. lbs. ) dial-type torque wrench. Record the torque reading for installation reference.

Hold the yoke with Wrench 6719. Remove the pinion shaft nut and washer.

Remove the yoke with Remover C-452 Yoke Removal

Remove the pinion shaft seal with suitable pry tool or slide-hammer mounted screw.

INSTALLATION

Clean the seal contact surface in the housing bore.

Examine the splines on the pinion shaft for burrs or wear. Remove any burrs and clean the shaft.

Inspect pinion yoke for cracks, worn splines and worn seal contact surface. Replace yoke if necessary

NOTE: The outer perimeter of the seal is pre-coated with a special sealant. An additional application of sealant is not required.



Apply a light coating of gear lubricant on the lip of pinion seal.

Install the new pinion shaft seal with Installer D-187-B and Handle C-4171

NOTE: The seal is correctly installed when the seal flange contacts the face of the differential housing flange.



Position the pinion yoke on the end of the shaft with the reference marks aligned.

Seat yoke on pinion shaft with Installer D-191 and Wrench 6719 Yoke Installation

Remove the tools and install the pinion yoke washer and nut

CAUTION: Do not exceed the minimum tightening torque when installing the pinion yoke retaining nut at this point. Damage to bearings may result.



Hold pinion yoke with Yoke Holder 6719 and tighten shaft nut to 597 N·m (440 ft. lbs. ) Tightening Pinion Shaft Nut Rotate pinion shaft several revolutions to ensure the bearing rollers are seated

Rotate the pinion shaft using a (in. lbs. ) torque wrench. Rotating resistance torque should be equal to the reading recorded during removal, plus an additional 0. 56 N·m (5 in. lbs. ) Check Pinion Rotation Torque

If the rotating torque is low, use Yoke Holder 6719 to hold the pinion yoke Tightening Pinion Shaft Nut and tighten the pinion shaft nut in 6. 8 N·m (5 ft. lbs. ) increments until proper rotating torque is achieved

NOTE: The bearing rotating torque should be constant during a complete revolution of the pinion. If the rotating torque varies, this indicates a binding condition.



Install the propeller shaft with the installation reference marks aligned.

Tighten the universal joint yoke clamp screws to 19 N·m (14 ft. lbs. )

Install the brake drums.

Add gear lubricant to the differential housing, if necessary. Refer to the Lubricant Specifications for gear lubricant requirements.

Install wheel and tire assemblies and lower the vehicle.

 

[VHolloway]

ok the deffreential was full the fluid was yellow

is it ok to drive to see if more sprays out

how can i tell if it came out the vent

help before i go to a shop

 

[blacksheepdiesel]

Sounds like it has water and dirt in it. I would drain it, remove the cover clean it as best you can with parts cleaner or brake clean, and put it back together. Read the owner's manual to find the correct level for the diff fluid. When I filled mine to the bottom of the fill hole it would come out the pinion seal. When I filled it to the correct level it no longer came out the seal. I bet your seal won't leak when filled to the correct level.

Godspeed,
Trent

 

[VHolloway]

is that rite

when i take the cover off and clean it out how tight do tighted the bolts

and how much oil is in there

and do I make my own gasket with

rtv high temp the red stuff

i may give that a try

do i need to do the front as well

and the transmision is shifting a tuch on the hard side



there must be some one that went thru deep mud and water

what was i thinking it was fun at the time

 

[blacksheepdiesel]

Vaughn,

I think rtv should work. Not sure on the torque for the bolts. If it is a stock diff cover there should be 4 qts of oil, check owners manual for absolute. I would definitely check the front axle fluid and transmission and transfer case fluids as well. Change them if anything looks amiss.

Godspeed,
Trent

 

[VHolloway]

how can I tell what rear end is in this truck

so we can get a gasket for the rear end cover when we clean it out

all I know is that it is a 410 gear

 

[blacksheepdiesel]

3/4 ton? Dana 80.

RTV will work fine

Godspeed,
Trent

 

[johncameron]

how can I tell what rear end is in this truck

so we can get a gasket for the rear end cover when we clean it out

all I know is that it is a 410 gear

There should be a sticker inside your glove box with that information.



JC

 

[VHolloway]

so i don't need to have a gasket

rtv will do just fine with no gasket

is that rite

 

[gtwitch]

I had a similar experience in that the pinion seal was leaking, in cold (below 20F ) driving weather. I would check level and fill if necessary. I discovered that the Diff vent was sagging and had a low poing that had miosture in it and would freeze and dwkould not allow the expanding air to escape through the vent line and sure enough the seal would relieve itself. took the vent line off, blew it out and repositioned it so there was no low point wheere moisture could collect and freeze and the problem was fixed. the fact that this only occured when it was 20F or below was my KEY!! perhaps there is mud or water in the vent line or some other matter plugging it.



gtwitch in wyoming

 

[VHolloway]

thanks I will check that I hope thats it