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2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Rebuild Calipers or buy New ones?

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MFranz

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I have a leaking rear caliper. Dodge sells the parts to rebuild the piston. If you do one side they recommend doing the other. Would this be a long term solution or should I just buy new calipers. From looking at the manual the job looks doable for me. I don't have the special tool to install the dust boot . Looks like I might be able to adapt something else,like PVC pipe or a wood dowel.

Has any body had success with rebuilding the brake caliper pistons? Would I be better off just buying new ones?Dealer has new ones for $135 a side. The brakes were just done 10,000 miles ago.

Thanks,Mike
 
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I know I have drums on the back but I got two new ones on the front. The price to rebuild one was almost the same as just buying the new one. Might be different for the back. Good Luck.
 
He was talking about rebuilding him self I thought .
Do you have a 2nd ride ? what if it took a couple days ?
What I'm getting at is depending on the condission of the hard parts [ parts not in the kits] rust ect. , its more often than not , just cleaning , open up remove slug [ water/brakefluid & juk ] thats a tech term , then get dirt out of the seals to help piston move freely .
You start runing into problums when the bleaders brake off , dents , rust ect . then you need to start gathering up the other stuff you found bad after opening , then how many broken/froozen bleaders have you replaced , you may find that once you've run into a problum you wish you bought the rebuild , but if you do alot of your own work & are well equipt , you may wander why you ever bought rebuilds .
 
I would probably just do the new replacements. Always seems to last longer than the backyard rebuild!



I have 170k+ on my 2001. 5 brakes, when the time comes, I think it will be four new calipers and rotors, flush the system and be done with it for another 6 years or so.



SHG
 
I wouldnt try to rebuild a caliper. . (these are calipers w/ pads, not cylinders with shoes are they? you're right on the edge for that. . )



advance has quite a few selections around the 85/per side range. . preloaded... if you change one, you should change the other. . heres a link with the calipers, gotta check out the description for front or rear, left/right, etc. .



http://www.partsamerica.com/Product...o=0&ptset=A&st=0&mfrpartnumber=&categorycode=



. . and here for 68. 99/side



http://www.partsamerica.com/Product...o=0&ptset=A&st=0&mfrpartnumber=&categorycode=



if you swap em out, upgrade to DOT4 synthetic fluid, and bleed the heck out of em. .



good luck



-j
 
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I did all 4 on my 01. 5 3500 with rebuilt calipers from partsamerica.com.

I also installed speed bleeders and while the bleeders were out I used my MitiVac to evacuate almost all of the trapped air first.

I found they had the best prices and if there is a store nearby they refund the core charge.
 
Brakes

Thanks for the replys everyone. Still haven't made up my mind which way to go. Would like to here from some of you that have rebuilt these things and what kind of results you may have had. Maybe theres not to many of you.



Thanks Again

Mike
 
I thought I did , I started doing wheel cylinders ect. 30 yrs. ago , in my buis. , but even as a buis. it just got to the point of where you wanted to spend your time & money to make a prof. , there were a lot of factors , but it got to the point were it made more sence to buy rebuildlt , if it were slow in the shop & I wanted to save my $$$ or help out a costumer/friend that could not aford the job & I could not aford to spend my $$$ I try cleaning & rebiuld , but it got to the point were it was getting harder to find re-kits & the already rebuild units-and new, were cheaper than trying to do yourself , like I said earlyer , you do not know until you disasemble and check out , then if its beyound what you can work with , you have to put back together to turn in for core .
Finding a good supplyer is huge , the markup on parts [ especialy if there the cheap imports ] and they pass on some of the savings , example , brake drum for avarage car $7 -cost , they sell to you for $35 or $12 , I've paid as little as $8 for a new brake drum 8 yrs. ago .
 
Brakes

Thanks to all. Good information. Nice to here how the pros would do it. I am going to get new ones from Dodge,no core charge for $99. They don't come with pads. But I have only 10,000 miles on the existing brake job so I was going to use the same pads. Is that a bad idea. I may rebuild the leaking caliper down the road just for the experience. I am replacing just the back calipers as that is were I have the leaking one.

Is there any other parts that should be replaced while I am at it. Dodge suggested the crush washers. What kind of fluid would you recommend. I also have ordered speed bleeders and a power bleeder made by Motive to hopefully make the job easier.

Any tips on taking the old calipers off and putting the new ones on would be most appreciated.



Thanks again to the TDR community

Mike
 
Normanly I would never go to dodge , more offen than not the prices are higher ,
Napa would be my choise for source , the old pads are ok to use ,
Flushing the system at every 20,000 -30,000 miles , can help the hyds, last at least twice as long .
Brake fluid sucks moisture out of the air , so getting dot 4 [ syn ] can help there also .
Get a [factory] manual , for doing your own work , in this case with anti lock brakes there are things you need to do to avoid damaging anti lock parts .
 
Brakes Caliper.

Well its done. I have replaced both rear brake calipers. The brakes seem to work fine. I got a scare when I pumped the brake pedal,It went to the floor,pretty spongy.

After I pumped it a few times it was fine. I put in Napa fluid. It was clear. The fluid coming out was the color of dark ale. I plan on doing a complete flush of the system this weekend. I ran out of time and fluid. The Motive Pressure Bleeder worked great. Didn't need the wife to pump the brakes. Thanks everyone for the input.

TDR is a great resource of people who are willing to help.



Thanks, Mike
 
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