Rebuilding bearing hub?

[MarkEkberg]

In searching for R+R info on youtube I found this.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oJDc5FVFOYU

I am currently in the removal process to see what everything looks like. I know I need something in there. Getting the growl at parking lot speeds on tight turns. I will likely replace u-joints and hubs this time and then work at rebuilding on my time.

Thought people here might like this vid.

 

[MarkEkberg]

Forgot to ask what the size of the castle nut is to remove the rotors is? I have to swing by parts house to buy one in the PM tomorrow.

 

[seafish]

Forgot to ask what the size of the castle nut is to remove the rotors is? I have to swing by parts house to buy one in the PM tomorrow.

The axle nut is 1 11/16"...if you can, be sure to get a 3/4" drive socket and 3/4" breaker bar(unless you are lucky enpough to have a 3/4" drive air impact gun)....the 1/2" drive and breaker bar really won't cut it...those nuts are torqued to 235 # and tuff to get off.

 

[MarkEkberg]

Torqued that high? Wow. Going to have to put it 4wd to get that thing off I bet as it is off the ground with wheel gone. Thanks for mentioning 3/4". I have a 3/4 set at my camp where my backhoe is. Completely forgot I bought it for my cantankerous 1969 Case. Will be up there this weekend snowmobiling. I guess this get put on hold till next Monday.

 

[E7mack96]

to get mine broke loose, i used a 1" to 3/4 adaptor and a 1 inch breaker bar.. and a 10 ft pipe on the end of it.. It was the tightest rusted on nut i've ever encountered. When it broke free, i thought I had broke the socket or adaptor from all the torque being applied.

 

[RDeFayette]

Torqued that high? Wow. Going to have to put it 4wd to get that thing off I bet as it is off the ground with wheel gone. Thanks for mentioning 3/4". I have a 3/4 set at my camp where my backhoe is. Completely forgot I bought it for my cantankerous 1969 Case. Will be up there this weekend snowmobiling. I guess this get put on hold till next Monday.

you don't need to put it in 4wd or anything else.
Stick a big screwdriver in/through the axle u-joint. done, no spinning.

 

[JR]

Those are pre 2000 hubs, being the studs are pressed through the rotors. I accidentally separated mine the same way they did. It all started out as a simple rotor replacement but the hubs were froze so badly both sides separated when pulling them out. While I had mine apart I cleaned them up and since I don't have front abs I drilled and tapped a hole for a grease fitting on the square flange where the abs sensor is on abs equipped hubs. That way every few years I can throw a couple of shots of grease in them, or if I get submerged in mud/water I can throw a few pumps in just to make sure there are no contaminants. One word of caution, you do not want to over grease as the grease will expand and potentially push the seals out. Once you compromise the seal it will just make it that much easier for water,dirt, mud, etc.To get in.

Also make sure you use lots of antisieze on assembly to make disassembly easier in the future

 

[JR]

duplicate post

 

[wcjp]

Also make sure you use lots of antisieze on assembly to make disassembly easier in the future

Ditto, Use lots of Antiseize on metal to metal surface. RockAuto.com has had the best price on OEM Hub replacement in the past. I use an air gun to remove the large nut. I've also used WD 40 once to assist. WD 40 is not a true lubricant. However, it's temporary nature is what I wanted at the time. I didn't want any residual lubricant on the thread for the install torque of the large nut.

 

[04blackcherry]

Take the big nut off first before anything else. Use the tires and the weight of the truck to counteract the high torque.

 

[jelag]

I sold hub bearing for a number of years... and if you'd like a quote I'd be happy to give you one.... I have pressed them apart and back together to see if you removed the ABS Sensor and put grease in that cavity it would migrate to the whole bearing... and yes it will.... if you intend to grease them I suggest a full synthetic grease with a drop point in excess of 450*F..... To purchase bearings for the hub would exceed its value... so replace it... but if its not making noise I suggest you grease it... we had several of the trucks I owned go their life cycle with the stock hubs... if we started at 50K and greased them every 50K miles...

Hope that helps answer your question....

 

[MarkEkberg]

I sold hub bearing for a number of years... and if you'd like a quote I'd be happy to give you one.... I have pressed them apart and back together to see if you removed the ABS Sensor and put grease in that cavity it would migrate to the whole bearing... and yes it will.... if you intend to grease them I suggest a full synthetic grease with a drop point in excess of 450*F..... To purchase bearings for the hub would exceed its value... so replace it... but if its not making noise I suggest you grease it... we had several of the trucks I owned go their life cycle with the stock hubs... if we started at 50K and greased them every 50K miles...

Hope that helps answer your question....

I am hoping to just have to grease hubs. Have no doubt that ujoints are toast. They were never done and it has 200K on it. Have to wait till I get my 3/4in set from snowmobile camp this weekend to get the hub nut off and then see how much of a PITA it is for the rest. So far very straight forward.

I hate doing ujoints. Man I always seem to fight with them. So if I don't have to replace the hub it will be a nice surprise.

 

[Motorhead]

With looking at your truck signature and seeing you have a stick shift, I can't see why you would want to go to all the trouble to rebuild the weak front bearing assemblies. My suggestion is to fit up a free spin hub kit to your truck and be done with all the problems the sealed hubs have. One major benefit is the option, once the free spin hubs are installed, to have 2wd LOW range especially for REVERSE. If you haul anything on trailers, this is a real benefit. I use mine in 2wd reverse more than anything else. Other major benefit is the fact that with the free spin hubs NOT engaged, none of the front U-joints and cardin joint is turning unless you engage 4wd. Empty truck fuel mileage improves also. Big initial investment for the kit but the returns start immediately. MY $0.02 worth.

 

[MarkEkberg]

With looking at your truck signature and seeing you have a stick shift, I can't see why you would want to go to all the trouble to rebuild the weak front bearing assemblies. My suggestion is to fit up a free spin hub kit to your truck and be done with all the problems the sealed hubs have. One major benefit is the option, once the free spin hubs are installed, to have 2wd LOW range especially for REVERSE. If you haul anything on trailers, this is a real benefit. I use mine in 2wd reverse more than anything else. Other major benefit is the fact that with the free spin hubs NOT engaged, none of the front U-joints and cardin joint is turning unless you engage 4wd. Empty truck fuel mileage improves also. Big initial investment for the kit but the returns start immediately. MY $0.02 worth.

Simply because of the money for the lock out units. I like lock out, and have had them on every truck I have owned except for this one, but the cost to convert is out of sight.