Rebuilt NV5600 issues

[steved]

At any rate, in spite of miles, usage, and a couple of "alternate lube" mistakes, mine is shifting better today than when new - it'll never be a drag racer, but sure works great for RV towing!

I'm dropping back to PZ Synchromesh the next OCI... if I got to change every 10k or so, it might as well be with the stock stuff that "works" and costs less.



steved

 

[Gary - K7GLD]

The last time I pulled the cooler off is when I found those wonderful broken pieces that started this whole mess. They're not coming off ever again. Now I've gotta go look and see if the PTO covers are on the same level side to side.



This morning the truck didn't like 3rd or 4th. Once it warmed up everything was fine again. I'm thinking I could have left the Amsoil/Mobil combo in there. Oh well, now I have the "right" stuff.

I know you've read it before, but I'll repeat for those who haven't:



In my transmission, and with the 9224 OEM DC lube, there will often be a *SLIGHT* tooth-catch from 2nd to 3rd, but only with cold lube - it all clears up in less than a mile of in-town driving.



In MY 5600, the alternate stuff I tried, Amsoil and Redline MTL, the cold grinding was FAR worse - and NEVER went away, regardless of miles driven or other driving conditions...

 

[Cattletrkr]

In my transmission, and with the 9224 OEM DC lube, there will often be a *SLIGHT* tooth-catch from 2nd to 3rd, but only with cold lube - it all clears up in less than a mile of in-town driving.

That's the way my previous transmission was. 3rd was the only goofy one with that one. This one it's 3rd and 4th and it's more than a little goofy. It's an all out grind and I almost have to double clutch it. It will go if I take it extremely slow, but with a trailer behind it's too long of a wait. It all clears up and it perfect, but the transmission has to be more than warm.

I think it'll be OK, I jus thave to get used to it. With any luck it'll get better with some more miles.

 

[Gary - K7GLD]

That's the way my previous transmission was. 3rd was the only goofy one with that one. This one it's 3rd and 4th and it's more than a little goofy. It's an all out grind and I almost have to double clutch it. It will go if I take it extremely slow, but with a trailer behind it's too long of a wait. It all clears up and it perfect, but the transmission has to be more than warm.



I think it'll be OK, I jus thave to get used to it. With any luck it'll get better with some more miles.

Have you switched over to a complete fill of the different transmission lube yet - or still running on the Amsoil plus 1 quart of other stuff?

 

[NIsaacs]

In post #19, it looks like he changed it out to the Penzoil stuff that he was gonna buy in the #5 post. Sounds like still only so so results.





"NICK"

 

[Gary - K7GLD]

In post #19, it looks like he changed it out to the Penzoil stuff that he was gonna buy in the #5 post. Sounds like still only so so results.





"NICK"

YUP - I missed that one - and yes, still looks like further improvement is needed - the DC OEM 9224 might still be the best bet, but at least it seems established that the lube DOES/can make a substantial difference.

 

[PRout]

Mine has always shifted very well using the Penzoil Synchromesh. Havent tried anything else other than the oem stuff and can hardly tell a difference between the two. IMO this is not a gearbox to be trying snake oils in.

 

[rbattelle]

IMO this is not a gearbox to be trying snake oils in.

Especially considering they don't even make them anymore!



Ryan

 

[Cattletrkr]

When the "approved" fluid went in the transmission was already up to temp. Things were great. So far at cold temps, nothing has changed. Things got screwy 300 miles into the new transmission and nothing is different with the new fluid. Once the issues started I don't think I ran it long enough on straight Amsoil to find out if it would go away warm.

This is not a little notchy or a slight tick when shifting. It's an all out grind. It's sounds like someone who has never driven a non-synchro'd crashbox trying to jam gears.

It's fine if I remember and double clutch for the first 1/2 hour and then after that it's OK. But if I treat it like the last transmission, it's not pretty.

 

[betterthanstock]

The dodge viper uses a Tremec (I think) that normally has brass synchros, but for the viper it has stainless synchros.

 

[Cattletrkr]

The dodge viper uses a Tremec (I think) that normally has brass synchros, but for the viper it has stainless synchros.

Yeah, but that's just for looks...

 

[Cattletrkr]

Now it's leaking oil. A fair amount of it. Not enough to be anywheres near low, but enough to make a mess. I drain about a quart of fluid out because as far as I can tell it's coming out of the breather. Or at least what feels like a breather on top... can't see up there. The leak seems to be originating up top right between the trans and t-case. I felt what I think is a breather up there.

Grinding in 4th when cold is still there. Pulled the dipstick today and there was a fair amount of filings on the magnet. I'll most likely change to the factory stuff as soon as I can get some and have time to do so. If that doesn't do it I just might use up the 3+ gallons of 50w Mobile trans fluid I have leftover from my '01.

 

[rbattelle]

Or at least what feels like a breather on top... can't see up there. The leak seems to be originating up top right between the trans and t-case. I felt what I think is a breather up there.

Yeah, that's the breather. Sorry to hear you're still having trouble.



Ryan

 

[Cattletrkr]

Is there supposed to be a visible seal between the transmission and t-case? Thing is still dripping and making a mess. I drained some more fluid out but it's still slightly "overfilled".

 

[MMeier]

Is there supposed to be a visible seal between the transmission and t-case? Thing is still dripping and making a mess. I drained some more fluid out but it's still slightly "overfilled".

My trans guy used silicone between the T Case and trans. One thing they got right.

 

[steved]

Should be a true oil seal on both the trans output and the tcase input...



At least every other trans I have ever seen had them... there was never a seal between the two halves...



steved

 

[Cattletrkr]

I talked to the service manager today. He said there is a seal in both the transmission output and the T-case input, like Steve said. The space between them is dry air. If either seal leaks it should just drip out the weep hole in the bottom. Since mine is wet all the way around, even at the top, it's most likely coming from the breather for some reason or another.

I wasn't able to call the rebuilder yet on this issue. One of these days...

 

[Cattletrkr]

Rebuilder is stumped. He wants me to bring it in sometime and he'll try to figure out where it's coming from. After talking with him last week I did a little more digging of my own. It is wet all the way to the top, but it might not be coming from the breather. I wonder if the fastcoolers aren't causing some funky wind currents under there and blowing it all the way up. It's wetter on the bottom than up top and that has me thinking maybe it is coming from the output seal.

How does one check for that? Pull the driveshaft, T-case and look? If that's all there's to it I might try it myself. Anything I need to know before getting in over my head.

 

[rbattelle]

Someone correct me if I'm wrong, but I believe there's a weep hole in the space between the transmission and the transfer case, so that if either is leaking the fluid will come out of that weep hole.

I doubt the Fastcoolers are blowing the fluid up to the top of the transmission, but it is remotely possible. Have you checked the shift tower boot yet?

Ryan

 

[Cattletrkr]

There's supposed to be a weephole there somewhere I guess. Mine's too much of an oily mess to see anything. I really need to clean it up good before I'll be able to find anything.

Shift tower boot??