Receiver Size?

[mcomeaux]

Just purchased a 2016 Ram 2500. Took my DT Towing hitch off my 2002 Dodge which is a 2" Hitch and tried to install on my 2016 which is 2.5".
Dealer says they have a reducer but my DT HItch has a key activated securing prongs that latch into hitch assembly. They will not extend enough
to reach holes in hitch. Any idea's I hate to walk away from a 200.00 hitch.

Regards

Mike

 

[Deleted member 995608]

I think that GM has even went to the 2.5" hitch. Friends of our have lost their adaptor a few times already with a costly replacement. They mentioned something about having to buy longer pins to fit the receiver

 

[slingshot383]

2.5" hitch is class V vs the 2" class IV, you are better off buying a 2.5" drawbar over sleeving the 2". Regardless, you will need a pin that is long enough to lock outside the receiver housing.

 

[mcomeaux]

Hitch

2.5" hitch is class V vs the 2" class IV, you are better off buying a 2.5" drawbar over sleeving the 2". Regardless, you will need a pin that is long enough to lock outside the receiver housing.

Thanks for your response. After looking at options slim to none this makes more sense.

 

[Dogpatch]

Something else I noticed. The 2.5-2.0 reducer sleeve has a "nub" at the front and now my Alluminum adjustable hitch doesn't go in far enough to put the pin through. I'm going to have to either cut the "nub" off the sleeve or buy a new piece of reducer square pipe and drill out the pin hole.

 

[kthaxton]

Something else I noticed. The 2.5-2.0 reducer sleeve has a "nub" at the front and now my Alluminum adjustable hitch doesn't go in far enough to put the pin through. I'm going to have to either cut the "nub" off the sleeve or buy a new piece of reducer square pipe and drill out the pin hole.

It seems that some manufacturers make adapters with no "nub".

With that said, I've found the looseness or "play" while using an adapter as being annoying. It rattles quite a bit.

 

[mcomeaux]

Hitch Fit

Something else I noticed. The 2.5-2.0 reducer sleeve has a "nub" at the front and now my Alluminum adjustable hitch doesn't go in far enough to put the pin through. I'm going to have to either cut the "nub" off the sleeve or buy a new piece of reducer square pipe and drill out the pin hole.

I just got off the phone with the manufacturer of my DT Hitch and was informed of a program that where you send hitch to them.
They will rework from a 2" to a 2.5" and install new inner works with the longer pins to accomodate the hitch. Clean and polish
for $90.00. I've heard several people negate the reducer idea.

Mike

 

[mrbb]

I just sucked it up and bought a whole new set up, as I hated the rattle, sucked but, its a buy once cry once deal
I got a new locking pin as well
I would think you could resell your old set up and use that to buy a new one and NOT be any more costly than paying to have old one re done??
either way
new truck pains I call them LOL

 

[hbowers]

when I got my 2016 my two inch receiver was real loose in the 2 1/2 in so I went to Walmart and bought a reducer sleeve.
later I looked under the back seat and there was one. I had one and didn't know it.

 

[mcomeaux]

when I got my 2016 my two inch receiver was real loose in the 2 1/2 in so I went to Walmart and bought a reducer sleeve.
later I looked under the back seat and there was one. I had one and didn't know it.

Thanks for your response. I ran out and looked and sure enough I have one also. Sure would have helped me on a Sunday evening
trying to tow trailer back home. Spend 45K you would think someone would have clued me in.

Mike

 

[Newsa]

They have a longer hitch pin at any auto parts store

 

[wyosteve]

One of the first things my salesman pointed out to me on the pre-delivery 'walk through' was the reducer sleeve.

 

[mpaulson]

One thing to watch when using the sleeve though is if you are pulling heavy trailers it changes the shear forces on the pin and mine bent and as well it pounded out the holes on the trucks reciever, elongated the holes and mushroomed it to the point when the burr was bad enough that I had to use a sledge hammer to get the draw bar out of the reciever. I then had to rebuild the reciever hole by welding it in and die grinding it back to the prefect size. I kept the hole on the small side to make it a tighter fit with the pin now for less slop and with no slop it won't get the forward/backwards movement to do the pounding any more. I welded the sleeve right onto the drawbar and built up the hole there as well and die ground it as well to get the pin tight.
So bottom line is the sleeves are in my opinion and experience a bad idea if you're pulling any significant weight.
I went through this trouble because the particular drawbar is an $1,800.00 air ride one, not replacing that just because the new truck has a 2 1/2" reciever.