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recoating Ranchhand bumpers

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Well my bumpers are getting way too chewed up and I need to get them blasted and repowdercoated. I have thought about doing Line-X but the guy that does it here said he won't do them because he can't get it to stay adhered to the mesh part of the grill guard section. Has anyone here been successful with it?



Also what should I anticipate for cost for powdercoating versus Line-X?



Thanks



Jon
 
I'm a LINE-X dealer, I can help you.



Powdercoating lasts about 2 to 3 years. The problem is that once it's chipped, rust forms and greatly accelerates the deterioration of the metal. Even if you don't chip it, after 2 or 3 years, moisture and contaminants within the metal make their way to the surface and detach the powdercoating. I see this kind of stuff almost every day.



Your LINE-X dealer needs to sand the grill and remove as much of the powdercoating as possible. He then needs to coat the grill with LINE-X XPM. XPM is a special LINE-X primer. XPM will work on steel, iron, or galvanized substrates. We use a paint brush to apply a VERY thin coat. For the rest of the grill, he needs to remove the surface rust and any loose powdercoating. Sand the powdercoating to provide a rough surface (you don't need to remove it) and apply LINE-X.



If you decide to do this, ask the dealer to apply either Ultra Shield, Nason, or Xtra on the LINE-X to prevent fading.



Let me know if you have any questions.
 
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DFriedson



If I could get a Line-X dealer to do it I would be happy. The grill I have has the honeycomb type mesh stuff on the grill guard part and they are saying it is too hard to apply the line-x to it. Am I just getting a guy that doesn't want to do it cause of the work or what?



#ad




Also, what kind of price range would I be looking at for all of that with the primer and fade prevention? PM me with it if you could, I would be very appreciative.



Thanks!!!!!



Jon
 
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Another option I've found to POR-15 (which sometimes has adhesion and cracking issues although I generally think it's a great product) is industrial enamel. The stuff they paint bridges and machinery with. I'm using some Sherwin Williams Industrial DTM Alkyd on a project right now and once it fully cures (which takes over a week depending on the thickness of the coat) it is TOUGH stuff. I mean really tough.



The downside is it costs $65/gallon, and the minimum quantity is 1 gallon. It is available locally, though (any SW store can get it).



I do think Line-X would be the best by far. Why not have everything except the mesh Line-X'd, then paint the mesh with normal paint?



If you do settle on paint, I'd check carefully with each manufacturer's ASTM ratings. You probably want one with a good ASTM D2794 rating, which is for direct impact resistance. For example, the SW I've got has a D2794 rating of 50 in-lb, whereas the equivalent Rustoelum industrial product rates at 100 in-lb.



Ryan
 
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