Recomended set up for front end alignment

[JApol]

I will be installing the new 08 steering upgrade in the next couple of days.

What are the recomended alignment specs. I keep hearing that Dodges recomended specs are crap.



What are the specs that work for your truck.



Jelag-You mentioned in the "open the steering issue" thread that putting a setting +2 degrees works wonders. What is the final setting?



Thanks for helping

 

[MQuirin]

Start with 3. 5 - 4. 0 deg. positive caster, unless your truck has problems. If you do have wandering, DW, etc. you can increase the caster (I like 1/4- 1/2 degree at a time) up to the max, which varies by truck, but is about 5 - 6. 5 deg. with stock components. Too much positive caster and you'll have heavy steering, and noticeable body/frame roll when steering.
Toe in is critical also. Too much and you get accelerated tire wear. Not enough and the front wanders, feels light, twitchy, etc.

Try to find a good shop that will work with you, and one that can measure rear alignment also. It's nice to know thrust angle if you're trying to trouble shoot. Most trucks are well within acceptable limits. There is a (very) limited amount of adjustment you can make if necessary.

 

[RonD]

I set mine at +4. 5 it wandered, I now have max Caster, about 7 degrees, much better, have your alignment shop put in max caster, you will like it.

 

[Scrappy]

good post! I am about to install the '08+ linkage and was about to ask for the specs myself.

My current set up has 2 bad TREs and is like herding cattle down the road.

I checked the toe with the current linkage and there is 0 toe. does it need to have a little toe-in? and it that part of the reason I have the "herding cattle" symdrome?

 

[JApol]

3. 5 hours of pounding, cussing, wrenching, spraying and turning I got the stock steering out of the truck.
Lessons learned about that.
PB blaster is your friend. use the pitman arm fork for the tie rod ends, pound the fork in till it hits the dust shield and pry on it a couple of times. Then use a BFH (Big Freaking Hammer) to pound on the area around where the tie rod goes through. I never got the tie rod to come out with the fork. Not to say I didn't try. Just hammer away at that area and I was 2 for 2 for the tie rod just dropping out.

I think it took me by me self 20 minutes to hang the new setup. I still have to tighten everything up and set the tires at least a little straight so I can get it to the alignemnt shop

 

[InfernoB]

SnapOn tool that no pitman arm change should be without... ... ... ... CJ119B.