Red Tops or Yellow Tops

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I'm going to buy optima's but I don't know which I need. DO I need the Red Tops or the Yellow Top optima's. Thanks for all the help.

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95,000Miles!

Yes 'mam it is a rolling office/bedroom/pickup/stinkpot/the best truck ever made!

1998. 4 4x4 Quad Cab 2500. 285/75/16 White w/gray trim. TST#8 plate. Limo tint ALL Windows, Whistler hidden radar built into overhead dash, Combo toolbox/41gal tank, electric start, Car Alarm, Lund Grill Covers, Electronic Idler, scotty's air intake, K&N Prefilter, Hadley Bulley Air Horns Mounted Bumper Level, Banks Pyro and Boost Gauge on the A-Pillar, and more to come.

 

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When my batteries go belly up I am going to try and find the yellow top optimas.

Mike

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'99 QC 2500 SLT Driftwood 2wd SB 24v Auto 3. 55 LSD ISSPRO pyrometer

 

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I just bought a set of Reds... the Yellow are *better*, but they get stupid money for them!

 

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I too just bought a pair of reds,I would've bought yellows if I didn't need two of them. Figured the money saved would buy one more redtop the next time around.

 

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I have the (2) red-tops in my Jeep with no problems adn I would probably use the same when my Dodge Ram batteries call it quits.

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2001 2500HD Quad Cab SLT SB 4x4, HO Cummins, 6-speed, 3. 55 gears, LSD, brightwhite/driftwood, 4w ABS, camper and trailer tow packages, HD transfer case, snow plow prep, group, cab lights, Isspro Boost and Pyrometer gauges mounted on A-pillar, 4" JRE exhaust, BD exhaust brake. 22500 miles as of 11/11/00.

1980 CJ-5, Modified for off-road use, bobbed fenders, 350 TBI, NP435 trans, 4. 56 gears, Dana 300, Dana 44 front, Dana 60 reverse-cut rear axle, ARB air lockers front and rear, 15/35/15 Super Swamper TSL on 10X15 steel rims, Cobra CB, Warn 9000I winch, nerf bars, 1/4" steel rock crawler bumper front and rear, jerri can/spare tire rack, custom roll cage.

 

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My Suggestion...
Get the Yellow-top Optimas, especially if u live in the colder areas. Remember... . the Manifold heaters draw AMPS big time when the engine has been shutdown with no available outlet for the block heater... #ad

Ive had the Yellows in my rig... and not a complaint about them... #ad
#ad
(except for the price... but oh well... . if they last me 10 years,Im a happy man)


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"Shadows" 96' 2500 SLT, Reg Cab, 12V, 4x4, NV4500, 4. 10s, LB, LSD, Black Exterior w/chrome rockers, Camel/Tan Interior, Towing Pkg w/ Tekonsha electric brake controller, Walker Muffler, Kitty wandered off to the woods... K&N Filter--Silencer Ring gone,AFC opened up a bit, Optima Yellow-tops, 235/85/16 Michelin LTX A/Ts Other Upgrades pending $$$$ TO THE BOMB BAY!!!!!!!

 

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EMD Diesel Power is correct. Check out Optima's website and decide for yourself ( www.optimabatteries.com ). If you REALLY research this issue with an open mind you will find the Yellow Tops to be the superior choice. Are they worth it? I think so. Remember, I also thought the 24v Prime-Loc was a good idea #ad
so consider the validity of the recommendation. . LOL. Anyway, you will have to decide for yourself if you are willing to part with the extra money for a better suited product to OUR application. I would use the Red Tops in anything else that didn't have preheaters, glow plugs or was driven semi-close to daily. #ad


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'98. 5 2500 QC 4x4 Sport, Glasstite Vision II, 285 BFG A/Ts on M/T Challengers, Warn 4X Boards, Mopar fender flares & tow hooks, NW Custom s/s-rubber mud flaps, Mag-Hytec diff. cover & trans. pan, Edelbrock IAS shocks, Reese Titan V hitch, VDO Vision gauges, Dynamat, '00 Sport grille and headlights/PIAA Super White bulbs, PIAA Dual Sport 900 aux. lights, BD exh. brake and TorqLoc, Amsoil Dual Remote Bypass, Optima Yellow Tops, Bosch 275s, 10 level BD/TST X Power/PM3 (not installed yet), Aeroquip AQP braided s/s fuel hoses, Banks High Ram intake manifold (not installed yet... ya I know, I'll have to eat my words)) and 14 cm2 turbine housing/Big Head wastegate actuator, ATS 3-piece exh. man. , Banks 4" dia. s/s exh. sys. , BD V10/Cummins hybrid TC & valve body, BD trans. front pump & PressureLoc, Air Bulldog induction hood (with NACA ducts), plus MANY other trick modifications

Recycle Bin: Prime-Loc fuel filter relocation kit (JUNK!), VA CPC (upgraded to 10 level PM3), '00 Dodge/Cummins valve cover (changed my mind... stay tuned)

 

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I have yellow tops in mine, but my brother sells them. At his cost I got them for about what the reds sell for. Optima won't waranty a red when you have any high draw accessories like a powerful stereo. I am willing to bet that the grid heater draws the same kind of power.

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B I G O R A N G E AMBER-FIRE (BURNT ORANGE) / BRITE SILVER 2001(. 5), 2500, SLT, Q-CAB 4x4, SWB, AUTO, 3. 55, LSD, TOWING PACKAGE
ADD-ON'S: LINE-X, 1/4" STEEL LONGHORN HITCH COVER
ON ORDER: WESTIN NERF BARS

 

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Originally posted by jwgary:
I have yellow tops in mine, but my brother sells them.

Would you mind asking him if he'd be willing to participate in a group purchase deal?


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Bill Lins Wharton, TX 98 2500 QC SLT,12 (the CORRECT # of)valves,NV4500,3. 54 LSD,Manik grille guard,Semi-Psychotty Air,Amsoil everywhere, Reading aluminum utility body and bumper,Optima yellow tops- silencer ring & muffler stolen.

 

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OK mabey a real dumb question??? But here it goes:

I understand yellow = deep cycle, Red = high performance standard bat. (am I right so far?) What would the problem be if you installed one yellow and one red in the vehicle? seems to me the deep cycle would take care of the cold start situations while the red would give you the extra amps at a lower cost than 2 yellows???

Would this cause problems any one out there no the answer?

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1999 3500 quad cab, auto aero fendor trim and running boards,
bugflector II, K&N filter, Geno's monster tip

 

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jwgary, I've read where the grid heaters draw 120 amps #ad
With NO alternator to help here, this is why the Yellow Tops are the superior choice.

ralphr,
Optima Red Top: starting battery
Optima, Yellow Top: deep cycle AND starting battery

Bottom Line: two Yellow Tops are best (i. e. , do not mix and match)

 

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Mixing battery types, especially if they are hooked in parallel, is not a good idea. Different charge/discharge curves could create over-current spikes and damage one or both batteries #ad


Does anyone know the capacity of the Yellow tops? I think the Red Tops are 120 Ah (amp hour) which is below the stockers' 170 Ah rating. The Red Tops of course have higher CCA than stock. In layman's terms, the Red Optimas will turn a bigger motor for a short period of time, but if you left your headlights on, the stockers would keep 'em lit quite a bit longer than the Optimas.

Vaughn

 

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Personally I would use the yellows due to the deep cycle for cold weather. There was another post on this and someone from Optima answered that the yellows were better for our use.

I think the grid heaters draw 120WATTS 10amps @ 12volts = 120Watt. I dont recall seeing the figures but 120amps is beyond WELDING current and at 12 volts thats = to 1440 watts!!!! Wouldnt triple 0 cable (electric wire) handle that kind of current or would you need 6/0??

Just a couple of thoughts.

SOTSU!!
\\BF//

Instead of sending you over to the thread (Battery Choices) and having you scroll to almost the end (icarus33), heres the reply from Optima:

"You are right on the line of whether or not yellows or red tops make the better choice here. With the redtops, getting recharged
after the truck starts, they may just work okay. Might not get you the longevity you need as you are draining a little too much of their power before the recharge. With two batteries lined up though you will be
splitting the power needed between the two.
So, as long as the truck sounds it is getting started okay, I would stick with the redtops. If you feel the truck sounds sluggish at the
start, then they might be getting too drained. Yellow would be better than. I hope this helps. "

[This message has been edited by Ben Stair (edited 11-18-2000). ]

 

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120 amps is correct. If it were 10 amps(grid heater), every time you'd turn on your 10 amp stereo or cigarette lighter... . your lights would do the dimming thing!!
Think about what the grid heater is doing... ...

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2001 FL70, 330hp CATERPILLAR "3126", I've gone to the dark side... .
<<>>Charles Pyatt<<>
*WARNING this post may offend some ford-diesel.com members*

 

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I got my Redtops thru an Interstate Battery dealer. The product is identical, Optima molded into the case, with an Interstate sticker on top.
The price was about the same, but Interstate warranties the battery for TWICE as long.
http://www.interstatebatteries.com/products/product_line/extreme_performance.htm

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"Roadrunner"-96 4X4 club cab-12v-auto-3. 54 gears-Amsoil bypass filter - all Amsoil fluids-trans filter-britebox-shelfit-DeeZee boards-Rhino liner-Rancho 5 speed shocks-Hellwig rear antisway & overload springs-Warn 12000 lb. winch-dual redtop optimas-combo gauge and trans. temp gauge in pillar mount-255/85R16 Kelly MSR tires-custom pinstriping- Walker muffler-Cummins mudflaps-Tuff Country control arms-2" coil spacers

[This message has been edited by Josparkz (edited 11-19-2000). ]

 

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Got my red tops at a speed shop earlier in the year. Noticeable cranking difference. #ad
Price is worthwhile, either way you look at it. My batteries leaked and the acid ran down the fender and ate the paint after I washed my truck this past summer. I was bummed. The body man wouldn't touch the repair until I got rid of the Road Hawks. He suggested the optimas. I thank him every day.

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Chris Timochko
1997 5sp 4X4, HX40, BD 4" Brake, Marine Compression, Custom Tuned Injection Pump, 370B Injection Nozzles, Delivery Valves, Governor & AFC Spring Kit, Psychotty Air, Water Injection, NOS Diesel Kit, 6" Chrome Exhaust System, No Smoke Valet Switch, McLeod Dual Disc Clutch, Mag-Hytec Rear Cover, Cummins Chrome Kit, Optima Red Tops, Hadley Bully Horns, Hurst Line Loc, Goodyear Wrangler AT/S 305/70/16s. Test mule for Auto Wurks Diesel race program