Redline 15W-40: interesting results

[MMeier]

$30 a gallon , hope this stuff comes with a technician to change it too!!

 

[Hohn]

Originally posted by MMeier

$30 a gallon , hope this stuff comes with a technician to change it too!!

It does, and she was pretty sexy!!



PB-- I know I know. I am wasting money putting such a fancy oil in an engine that doesn't need it. What can I say? I like my CTD, enough to where I will let it have the best in life.



You wouldn't treat YOUR kids any differently:-laf:



HOHN

 

[RustyJC]

Originally posted by Lee Weber

Ok, you got me.

Lee,



Me, too! Other than a slug of cold oil, I don't know what would cause the turbo to act the way it did. I can tell you that I was sweating bullets on the next trip towing the 5ver waiting to see if (1. ) it would make boost (it did - 30 PSIG) or (2. ) it would blow itself to smithereens (it didn't). So, I guess just to be safe I should order one of Piers' HX35's and carry it in my toolbox as a spare!



Rusty

 

[Hohn]

Originally posted by RustyJC

So, I guess just to be safe I should order one of Piers' HX35's and carry it in my toolbox as a spare!

I like your logic, Rusty. I think I should order that DDUFM so I won't run out of fuel



Hohn

 

[Pit Bull]

Originally posted by Hohn



PB-- I know I know. I am wasting money putting such a fancy oil in an engine that doesn't need it. What can I say? I like my CTD, enough to where I will let it have the best in life.



You wouldn't treat YOUR kids any differently:-laf:



HOHN

I understand, I'm just to cheap. I am sure it is better for your engine then the Rotella T 15w40 that I use. But I will keep my truck for the warranty period (5years or 100K miles) and then sell it to a friend of mine (he thinks my used trucks are better than what he could buy new). He will beat it to death, so the best part of this trucks life will be me and the Rotella T 15w40 I rode in my friends current truck the other day WOW nothing worked, (it's a Ford PSD) looked like something you might find in a junk yard. He has 270K miles on it and hopes to get another 130K miles and then buy mine. I almost don't want to sell him mine when the time comes. Now you can understand why I'm not going to use synthetic.

 

[amsoilman]

My 89' Dodge "Shadow" 2. 5L TURBO has over 155,000 miles and the turbo has never given me any problems at all, as the rest of the engine has done also. I did have a retainer bolt on the timing belt sprocket come loose and ruined the end of the cam shaft. Other than that, this engine has run very nicely since new, and has never failed a State emmision test.



The engine oil is change once each year, with a filter change every six months, using a high quality synthetic 10W-30 oil.



I realize it is NO CUMMINS, but it is still a turbo'd engine, and does run hot. Max boost is only 10 PSI!



Anyone wanting to see pictures of the teardown, go to my website www.1gr8oil.com/enginedamage.html



Wayne

amsoilman

 

[Pit Bull]

Wayne, I switched the wifes truck to Amsoil synthetic 5w30 last month. Been using Mobil 1 5w30. Figured with everyone on this site raving about how good this stuff is, I should try it. She only drives about 8K miles a year. The bottle says it is a 20K mile oil. I figured I would run it for a year (8K miles) and change the filter at 6 months (4K miles). Then change the oil at 8K miles. Truck is a 95 Landcrusier with 125K miles on it but very young looking for her age and miles What is your opinion? Think my plan will work?

 

[amsoilman]

Pitbull,

Your plan should work just fine since you have been using a good synthetic in it anyway. You should re-check the 5W-30 bottle... ... as it should read 25,000 mile/one year drain interval with filter change 6/months or 12,500 miles. using their filters. If you use "offshelf" filters change filter at manufactures interval.



Best regards,





Wayne

amsoilman

 

[DocStressor]

I'll jump in here before Wayne's reply. You can go 1 yr or 8K miles on either M1 or Amsoil without the filter change. Filters last much longer with synthetic oil since most of what they filter out is oxidation products rather than dirt. There are publications from Mobile that point this out. The main reason for the filter change is to repletish the additives in the oil with the fresh quart. Since you will only be going 8K miles, this should not be an issue with either oil. Amsoil has a more robust additive package than M1, but don't believe the 25K propaganda unless your have a bypass filter.

 

[drifter]

Just for info. Valvoline has a new full syn. 5 - 40 oil for diesels. Reported to be about 15. 00 a gal from Cummins. Part # was in the current issue of TDR.

 

[HeberRam]

Father knows best???

Wayne & Gene... . Don't know if you Amsoil guys have seen this?



The following is from Gale Banks Web page.



MYTH:

You have to let a turbo-diesel idle for two minutes before you shut it off.

FACT:

This is a current myth that has a basis of fact stemming from many years ago. It also has a kernel of truth regarding today’s turbocharged gasoline engines that operate at higher peak exhaust temperatures than turbo-diesels. In the early days of turbochargers, the turbo shaft was supported by a babbitt bearing that could seize, or even melt, if the engine was shut off immediately after sustained boost conditions where the turbocharger would “heat soak”. A two minute cool down at idle allowed the turbocharger to dissipate any remaining spinning inertia, and the oil circulation cooled the bearing and prevented oil “coking” in the bearing area. Turbochargers haven’t used babbitt bearings for over 30 years, and today’s oils resist coking. Synthetic oils won’t coke, period. With a turbocharged gas engine, it’s still good insurance to let the engine idle for 30 seconds to a minute to allow the turbo(s) to dissipate any inertia and to cool the bearing area to prevent oil coking, especially if the engine has been worked hard just prior to shut-down. Of course, using quality synthetic oil eliminates this potential coking problem.

See more At:http://www.bankspower.com/tech_TD-fact-Fiction.cfm





Father knows best!!!!



Steve

 

[DocStressor]

Bull. The flash point of synthetic oil is just under 500 degrees. EGTs are twice that after a hard pull. That means that it burns and turns to coke above that temperature. Sure, the bearings are better and are almost impossible to sieze. But the oil still burns off and eventually depletes the additives. Banks must be trying to sell parts.

 

[Hohn]

Originally posted by Lee Weber

Bull. The flash point of synthetic oil is just under 500 degrees. EGTs are twice that after a hard pull. That means that it burns and turns to coke above that temperature. Sure, the bearings are better and are almost impossible to sieze. But the oil still burns off and eventually depletes the additives. Banks must be trying to sell parts.

I am with Lee on this. While a syn is WAY better at the high temps, it's not able to cope with the heat that a turbo can produce. I personally don't know what happens to a syn when it gets really hot, whether it cokes or not, but I would be suspicious if someone said it didn't.



There are turbo-cooling idling guidlines in the owner's manual. I think we have all seen the little table showing running conditions (highway vs city, empty vs max GVWR) and corresponding cool down times. Is Bank$ trying to say that our owner's manual is wrong and THEY are right? Who would YOU trust more??



I was going to mention earlier that I would use Dino oil in PB's case as well. He's not on as long a term as I am,so that's why I use syn.



My approach to my truck is more like i bought my retirement home than if I rented an apartment. I plan on having this be my last one, so I have the freedom to do with it as I please (as well as the burden of the consequences of my truck decisions).



My truck might not last me the next 40 years, but I will do all I can to get it close.



HOHN

 

[illflem]

Originally posted by Hohn

Is Bank$ trying to say that our owner's manual is wrong and THEY are right? Who would YOU trust more??

Banks.

Gale has been working with turbos for over fifty years, in fact I seem to recall that he was the first one to put one on a gasser in the '50s or '60s. I would think he knows more than Dodge.



I'll still let mine cool down though, but 350° pre has been my shut down temp for 300k combined miles with dino. Works for me.



My understanding has been that the coking doesn't harm the turbo but rather the coked oil, which is almost diamond hard, is returned to the sump where it can be circulated again. Hard on oil pumps and filters.

 

[Hohn]

That's one of the (many) reasons that I prefer to use synthetic. I haven't heard of any turbo coking problems with syn. They aren't that common with dino if driven properly, but with syn, the point it moot I think.



No doubt Banks knows a lot, and I am sure that turbos have made a lot of progress. But to say that NO cooldown at all is necessary (if indeed, that was what was meant) sounds to me like he might be doing the less informed a disservice.



Hohn

 

[RustyJC]

One thing to bear in mind is that most (if not all) gassers have gone to turbos that have water cooled bearing housings. This greatly drops bearing temps and helps prevent coking when the uneducated turbogasser driver whips off the Interstate where he's been cruising at 80 MPH for 3 hours and right into McDonalds where he shuts it off without a thought for cooldown.



As hard as I've looked, I can't find any water hoses on my HX35, so cooldown is worth considering just as it was on my 1983 Volvo Turbo with the non-water-cooled Garrett - the first vehicle that I ran Mobil I in!



Rusty

 

[Hohn]

Originally posted by illflem

Banks.

Gale has been working with turbos for over fifty years, in fact I seem to recall that he was the first one to put one on a gasser in the '50s or '60s. I would think he knows more than Dodge.



I'll still let mine cool down though, but 350° pre has been my shut down temp for 300k combined miles with dino. Works for me.



My understanding has been that the coking doesn't harm the turbo but rather the coked oil, which is almost diamond hard, is returned to the sump where it can be circulated again. Hard on oil pumps and filters.

OK, trusting DC over Banks is the WRONG rationale to justify cool down. I will instead appeal to your logic, and the fact posted by Lee.



HOHN

 

[DocStressor]

Yes, it's the oil that suffers. Materials scientists have made great improvements in turbo bearings over the years. It was aerospace and not automotive development that has driven the process.



Speaking about old turbos, I had a 1962 Corvair Spyder when I was a kid. This was probably the first general production turbocharged car sold in the US. I got the car with 25K on the clock and never saw the owners manual. So I don't know if they said anything about turbo cool down. I know I never cooled the thing down. Anyway, I seized the turbo and rebuilt the engine (you have no idea what a PITA that was) since it had a lot of blowby and piston slap as well. When we took the thing appart, we found about 1 inch of grey sludge in the oil pan and at the bottom of the valve covers. The oil had been changed every 1000 miles since I got the car. We pulled the engine about 2 years later after blowing a piston and there was a fresh 1/2 inch layer of sludge in the bottom of the engine. Even after oil changes about every month! That was when I first developed an interest in oil. It was clear that either the turbo or the general hot operating conditions of that engine was ruining the oil.