Redundant Ball Joint Question (And Lukes Link Rod Ends)

[ToolManTimTaylor]

Well I remember posting about them and have searched. However I cannot remember nor find the name of the Uprated Ball Joints that came out for our trucks (it was 4X something)

Anyhow I now have to park the rig as the severe klunk has gotten to the point it truly sounds like something IS broken.

The DSS is in good working order , the TD track bar ends are tight , but the steering linkage and ball joints are so bad you can see wheel movement when standing still.



So Sleddy brought up the point of Lukes Links on the tie rod ends. WHAT else can be done on ALL the other joints including pitmann , drag , and connecting links? replace them with OEM or MOOG? UGH $$$ All the booties are rotted too.

 

[Chipstien]

I personally will not use another Lukes Link because the one on my Track Bar has clunked from day 1.

 

[gpeddicord]

Ditto on the clunk. Getting worse, even after tightening it up.

 

[BWillard]

I have never looked at a Lukes Link or real close at my trackbar, but have always used heim joints with misalignment spacers on my Jeep. Could this be used on our track bars? Mine is getting pretty sloppy! If using a GOOD 3 piece heim with teflon, it should last a fairly long time and would be an easy fix on the roadside in the event of failure.

 

[Chipstien]

Originally posted by BWillard

I have never looked at a Lukes Link or real close at my trackbar, but have always used heim joints with misalignment spacers on my Jeep. Could this be used on our track bars? Mine is getting pretty sloppy! If using a GOOD 3 piece heim with teflon, it should last a fairly long time and would be an easy fix on the roadside in the event of failure.

A DT track bar uses hiem joints on both end.

 

[ToolManTimTaylor]

Originally posted by ToolManTimTaylor



The DSS is in good working order , the DT track bar ends are tight , but the steering linkage and ball joints are so bad you can see wheel movement when standing still.

guys, I am allready running a DT track Bar and a DSS. Its all the rod joints that are wasted. But to hear that the Lukes klunk diturbs me

 

[Dreher]

I've had five Luke's Links on the front of my 96 for about a year and all of them are still solid with no problems. So far, I'm happy with them.



Bob

 

[ROADWARRIOR]

I have them on the joints up front and no clunking.



Dan

 

[ToolManTimTaylor]

Dan, How was it grinding down the rod end caps? Someone said you have to remove a machined lip in order to get the ball stud out.



Will I have enough room for a link on the Pittmann arm? It does ride close to the DT track bar.



Anyone have the Name of the Ball Joints?

 

[ToolManTimTaylor]

https://www.turbodieselregister.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&postid=891068#post891068



I found the Ball Joints! Now I juuust need some more input on the rod ends and what the best way to go would be

 

[krs]

"I juuust need some more input on the rod ends and what the best way to go would be



I used a lukeslink on the '97 tracbar (no clunk) but couldn't handle the idea of a bunch of them on tierods so I bought OEM parts at impressive expense for the '98. You do have to remove the machined lip on the boot side of the joint before you can put in a lukeslink. It grinds away pretty easily.



I've dealt with Dan at Quad4x4 for balljoints and trans parts. He'll take good care of you and stays up on what works for our trucks. If you don't need the tools, or don't need all of them in one of Dan's kits just let him know and he'll fix up a price for only what you DO need.

 

[ToolManTimTaylor]

O. K I just ordered the Ball Joints From quad4X4.



Ball Joint QUADKIT for Model 60 (248FBI) front axles. Easily replace those worn ball joints on your Heavy Duty Dodge Truck yourself! Each QUADKIT includes 4 improved design replacement ball joints with hardware, cotter keys for the tie rods & axle shafts, 1/2" drive impact sockets for the large axle shaft nut & hub retaining bolts, ball joint installer, Threadlocker, antisieze, RTV sealant,synthetic brake caliper lube, & instructions. QK4509 &4510 also include new self locking nuts for the factory tie rod ends and a impact socket for the caliper support bolts.



And I really really hope that the old ones do not put up the fight that I hear soooo much about.





NOW All I need would be to figure out what route to go with all the steering linkage.

 

[Texas Diesel]

I had a Lukes Link, couldnt keep it tight plus it almost beat a hole in the front diff.



Replaced it with a Lindstadt kit over a year now.

 

[BWillard]

Originally posted by BWillard

I have never looked at a Lukes Link or real close at my trackbar, but have always used heim joints with misalignment spacers on my Jeep. Could this be used on our track bars? Mine is getting pretty sloppy! If using a GOOD 3 piece heim with teflon, it should last a fairly long time and would be an easy fix on the roadside in the event of failure.

I guess I should've worded that better! I used heims on ALL of my tie rods and trackbars. QA1 is a good heim, they come in chromoly and high pressure ratings such as 76,000 static load. I would go with the strongest rating I could find in the appropriate size. here is one link but there are many more:http://www.spydercustoms.com/index2.html

 

[ToolManTimTaylor]

Originally posted by BWillard

I used heims on ALL of my tie rods and trackbars.

O. K do tell! Being I am in the SALT belt road slat will be an issue here. How long have ya had em?

 

[BWillard]

I ran my Jeep for 2 years in the mud, salt, snow, rain, and punished them on a regular basis. I never had a failed heim joint (not that it won't happen) and when I recently they were sold it, they were good as new. I was running 1" heims on all of my suspension links and steering but I was running 2 1/2 ton Rockwells. Before that I ran 3/4" heims on my steering links with Dana 44's. I could dig up some pics and e-mail them to ya' if you'd like.

 

[skillsaw]

I use Heim Joints on my jeep as well for all my steering connections... 1 ton rears with big boggers & as much metal as my 3500 (almost)- I got the Chrome Moly Tubeing & fabricated up black pipe at home with all the bends as a mock & took it to a local biker shop so they could bend & Tig up the chrome moly tubeing to the joints. I have the 1" Joints & tube from Chassis Engineering... Beaten the $#!T out of them, Mud, Water, Sand, Salt water... 3 yrs. & Still running.

http://www.chassisengineering.com/



I would go to their site & request a catalog even if you don't use the product. . Killer stuff in there.



In all honesty, I would probably not put the joints on my truck for the sake of towing & the stress that would be on the front end in say, Hard stopping with a heavy load.

I do believe this method would be strong enough, but I just don't have the guts to go that far!!

My Jeep's called The Mutt for a reason... My Dodge is still JUST a Dodge!!



I have the Luke's on my truck. . The Track bar is my big crutch!! I had Dodge do my Ball Joints at about 85k... ouch!!, but they've been good since (knock on wood)





-Good Luck

 

[RT66DOC]

How do you check the ball joints and front U-joints for wear?

 

[Texas Diesel]

Up and down play shouldnt be any or very small amount. I can email you the "official" procedure to the trac bar ball joint if you want to read a little.

 

[RT66DOC]

Is the "official" procedure in the FSM? I have one.