Reese 5th wheel

[HTRDHLR]

I am thinking of installing one of these. Any good??

 

[HTRDHLR]

http://www.reeseprod.com/



Heres the link it is a pro series "new for 2002"

 

[Goddard]

i installed a reese 22k in my truck and am very pleased with it. it is differant than the one in your pic in that the mounting arms are bigger and all one peice.



which you choose depends on what youe towing?



hope this helps.

 

[Boost]

I have towed with my Reese hitch over some very nasty mountain roads. I have had the truck twisted one way and the 5ver twisted the other to the point that I thought something had to give. Not one problem at all, as long as you dont count gouges on top of the box.



Rob

 

[NVR FNSH]

I have a 15k with that style mounting legs & my dad has a 20k with the one pc 'pyramid' base. The 'pyramid' base is much better IMO since it doesn't get sprung open - I have to use a hammer/block of wood to install my hitch & a pry bar to get it out. My dad's drops in/lifts out w/o any problem. Both use the same mounting rails on the bed floor.



I have an extra set of the mounting rails w/o the 'L' brackets if you're looking to save a few bucks. They came with the hitch when I bought my trailer.



Brian

 

[Bob Stephens]

I used a similar hitch. It worked fine. I upgraded to a better hitch since I use the trailer more but if you are only going to use it on a limited basis, the Pro Series will do a fine job. NVR FNSH is correct in that you need a rubber hammer to get it into the bars and a pry bar to get it out but even that's not a lot of work. I used to put on my work boots, get three pins into the bars, and then give the fourth pin a good kick. With this hitch, you also have to double check to make sure you are really hooked up when the bar slides in because it is sometimes possible to look latched when it isn't.

 

[Shooter]

Are you loosening the allen head bolts on the rear pin lugs. They are located inside the plastic rectangular caps. ????? They tighten the pin tabs forward against the mount rail. If you loosten them the pin tabsd will be loose and will move rearward up to 3/8 inch and not bind in the rail.

Originally posted by NVR FNSH

I have a 15k with that style mounting legs & my dad has a 20k with the one pc 'pyramid' base. The 'pyramid' base is much better IMO since it doesn't get sprung open - I have to use a hammer/block of wood to install my hitch & a pry bar to get it out. My dad's drops in/lifts out w/o any problem. Both use the same mounting rails on the bed floor.



I have an extra set of the mounting rails w/o the 'L' brackets if you're looking to save a few bucks. They came with the hitch when I bought my trailer.



Brian

 

[NVR FNSH]

Shooter,

I don't think we're talking about the same thing. The 'legs' are 1 piece formed arches with the tab for the mounting rail welded onto each end. I don't recall there being any way to adjust the distance between the tabs. I'll take a look tomorrow to verify but I really don't think there is any way to adjust it.



The mounting rails in my truck were 'set' using my dad's 20K hitch so it makes sense that it slips in/out without a problem. My dad looked at 15k hitch for me before I got mine with the trailer and it had the same 'sprung' problem as my hitch. I think it's just the nature of the design.



Brian