Reese signature series 18K

[Bertram65]

Just finished installing a Reese signature series 18K sliding hitch in my '03. Took a long time, about 6 hours. Had to drill 4 holes in the frame 21/32", 4 holes in the bed 2-1/2". I have the specs from Dodge on drilling the frame and it is within the guidelines. Worst part was fishing the bolts through the inside of the frame about 20" from the entry hole to the hole they come out, the bolts are special with splines so they bite in and lock in place as the you tighten them. Had to buy a couple tools for the job I did not have, a torque wrench that went to at least 170lbs of torque, a 1/2" drill, the 21/32 bit has a 1/2 shank, and a 1-1/2" open end wrench for the special bolts for the floor mounts. I am picking up my new trailer tomorrow so I will report back on how it works. Here are a couple pictures from the install.



This is the frame laid out as it sits on top of the frame rails.

 

[Bertram65]

This is how the side plates sit against the frame. Bolted and sprayed with body wax before putting the fender liner back on.

 

[Bertram65]

This is the bed, without the hitch, there are plugs for the holes, it also sits high enough that I can cut my bed mat and still use it.

 

[Cryppie]

I've had mine installed for about a month and a half. Made a couple pulls on my 14k toybox and very pleased with the hitch so far. I agree on it not being the easiest install, but also true it was a good excuse to buy tools

Getting the correct torque on the mount bolts is nearly impossible without a lift, I initially just got them as tight as I could with an end wrench, then went back and got about another 1/4 turn with the torque wrench. Couple things I have noticed, be very careful pulling the head off, it will bite your fingers if you aren't paying attention. Also, even with the head off, the upright assembly is still quite heavy without an assistant. The first time I hooked up, it was pretty stiff getting the locking bar all the way in, but a little persuasion in form of my boot and it went home. I do like the little "flag" to let you know you're all the way there, but I still don't trust it, do a pull test, cheap insurance. Anyway, I'm happy with the Signature, let us know your opinion when you get a chance.

 

[klenger]

I have the PullRite Super 5th with SuperRails. I'm glad to see Reese getting into the removable rail design.

 

[Bertram65]

Picked up the trailer this afternoon, towed great, sits nice and level, not sure how much pin weight it has, I think it is susposed to be about 1000lbs. When I got home I slid it back, nice and smooth, locked in position, I have to have the tailgate down in the manuver position to clear the hitch frame on the trailer, I was worried the tailgate might hit the trailer being down but it clears without any problem. Here is a picture of the trailer and truck when I got home. I will take some more pictures of the hitch latter and post them up.

 

[MMeilicke]

You folks who are thinking about drilling into welding onto the 2004 frame be careful. There is a TSB out that says emphatically that whoever drills or welds assume full frame warranty. Period. However, the TSB further says that if you wish to drill or weld here are the instructions as where to drill or weld. Good luck

 

[DanDee]

Is this the TSB your refering to?

http://dodgeram.info/tsb/2003/13-001-03.htm



I don't see anything that sez you assume FULL frame warranty, but then maybe I'm just not reading it correctly!



Of course they are not going to assume any liability for any modifications that YOU make... but they are telling you how they want it done and saying its an industry standard...



I think maybe this whole drilling the frame thing is a little bit over blown. I'll bet you find that the other manufacturers won't assume any responsibility for frame modifications not made by the factory either!



Well, thats my three cents for today!!!!



DanDee

 

[Bertram65]

You folks who are thinking about drilling into welding onto the 2004 frame be careful. There is a TSB out that says emphatically that whoever drills or welds assume full frame warranty. Period. However, the TSB further says that if you wish to drill or weld here are the instructions as where to drill or weld. Good luck

Can you back this up the first part about the TSB with some proof? I have a couple bulletins on how to drill in the frame to mount something and as long as you are within those guildlines you should not have any problem.

 

[CPG]

Ive had a 16K Signature Series 5th wheel on my 04. 5 CTD since new. Its not a job for the "faint hearted" to do if their not good at pre/fab work. As I have a fuzed neck from being a HD mechanic for 36 years, I had a company here in the Bay Area called Barstad & Donicht, Inc. install it. They have been in the custom trailer bussiness for 40 years.

They laughed at me when I mentioned that DC did not advocate drilling of their frames.

Since the time I had my Draw/Tite installed, the name has been changed to Reese.

The inclosed pictures by Bertram65 are excellant in showing how these attach to the frame. In my opinion its not an easy job but the engineering is tops. The weight sits directly on the frame.

I certanly agree with Cryppie about the little (safety) "flag" in hooking up as twice I coupled to the jaw and it was not locked, This is a must to check by eye and also giving a good pull before leaving wherever you are taking off from.

I sprayed the single jaw with white paint to be able to see its in the locked position. Thats what the little flag indicator does This is similiar to the big rig Fontaine 5th wheels that I worked on for years. No slack. On having this locked, its a good idea to put a padlock through the release handle so some "joker" does not play games with you while you are at a coffee stop. Its nice to have the clean bed with no rails etz. sticking up. Its a top design.