I have the 18K Reese Signature hitch. I went with the clamp on mounting hardware. I installed mine myself. It wasn't too bad of a job. You can't use the prick bolt on the front left hole due to the fuel tank. At least so on my long bed reg. cab truck. Once the hitch is adjusted, it goes in and comes out easy. You can read the install instructions on the Reese site to see if you can handle the job or not.
I had to buy a cheap 15/16" socket and grind it down so it would fit between the wheel-well and the rail bolts to be able to torque them. I used a hole saw to drill the holes. I took the teeth off the hole saw and had to buy another hole saw. I believe I had the drill going too fast. Also a drill with a side handle helps you control it better. Let the drill and hole saw do the work and don't try to get in a rush. I also recommend you lock the hitch into the pucks before you torque the rail bolts. I had trouble with the front rail tilting when I torqued it and caused the pucks to not be level and the hitch wouldn't set in them correctly.
I drilled my holes and then had my line-x sprayed in to seal the metal from rusting.
Note, if you use a lube plate, you'll need to get the signature lube plate. I believe it's 12" and the standard ones are 10"
It's a great hitch. Since there are only two hitch pins (they hold the head to the center section) the hitch doesn't bang, snap, and such during towing as the rail set-ups do which use 4 to 6 hitch pins. The head is spring loaded, so it doesn't move back and forth while driving without the trailer. But it will rock side to side and bang. I use a short bungee cord to prevent it from rocking.
Earl