Reese Signature Series 5th Hitch

[RJOL]

Got to start to put together another hauler (see sig). I'm looking at hitches and ran across the Reese Signature Series in either 16K or 18K. The only difference, other then cost, is the 18K pivots side to side as well as fore and aft. I want the side to side pivot as it helps to hitch up in uneven ground. Anybody have experience with these, and have a good place to order them from at a discount???

 

[RPotter]

I have talked to some folks that say they are great. Can only quote hear-say however. I am also looking to rig for 5th wheel, somwhere around 30-32' in the near future, so I'll follow the feedback you get also.

 

[Bertram65]

I have the 18K, here is the thread I wrote when I installed it. http://www.tdr1.com/forums/showthread.php?t=110068

This is where I got it, cheapest at the time, great to deal with had the hitch in two days, and that was the free shipping. http://www.bigdiscountrv.com/



Through an error, they initially send me a non sliding hitch, when I ordered a slider I ended up with both the slide and fixed hitch sides, I offered to send it back to them but they said it was not worth it, the cost of shipping was too high. So if I ever get a long bed I can put the fixed sides on. The under bed mount is the same. Have not used the hitch too much but I am impressed with the quality and the ease of operation hitching, unhitching and sliding is all very easy.

 

[RJOL]

Thanks for the info... I was wondering about drilling the frame, but if Chrysler says it is within limits, it must be okay. I found a couple of sites that will beat Big Discount, but it is pretty close...

 

[juicedcummins]

Most of the installers around here are only drilling one side of the frame not straight through. The they fish a knurled bolt up through a hole back on the frame. When this is tightened it will not spin and drops the need for a spacer inside of the frame rails. [needed if you went straight through].

My 15k has the double pivot so you should be able to get the 16k with it.

 

[Bertram65]

When I did the install on mine I fished the bolts from an existing hole about 20" down the frame from where the bolt gets mounted, I did not drill any holes in the inside frame wall. The kit comes with a really neat wire for it. The bolts are splined near the head and as they get pulled through the hole the splines cut into the frame and hold it in place and keep it from spinning. The spacers included with the kit I used are needed as the frame is not flat like the plate for the hitch mount, one spacer goes between the frame and the plate the other goes on the outside of the plate.

 

[YOOPERVIC]

I had the Signature 24K installed in my '05 3500 long-bed. Haven't pulled with it yet, but really impressed with the ease of operation/removal/etc. and

the clean installation. Looks TUFF! Good price too. Nice flat bed when the

hitch is out.

 

[FCecelin]

Bought mine last year from local hitch dealer who also did install . Therefore install was a piece of cake !! I have been satisfied with operation (18K) . locks tight with no slop and has indicator to tell when locked if you do not do a visual check. sometimes reluctant to release if truck and fifth are on VERY uneven ground. Pucks left behind when hitch is out do not interfere with carrying drywall... .

 

[Big Mike]

I also have the 18k. I have only had it since October, works like a dream, easy to install/remove. I would highly recommend it.



Good luck with whatever you choose.

 

[RJOL]

Several of you have the Signature Series hitches, and I appreciate the positive responses. Did you or your installer drill the frame to install the rails under the bed?. .

 

[Bertram65]

Yes, you have to drill the frame 4 holes, 21/32" it is very easy as the plates locate with the frame assembled and you just mark where the holes need to be then dissasemble, drill, install the bolts and put the plates back on. The scary holes are the 4 2. 5" holes in the bed, measure 20 times cut once, Reese makes a tool that makes it easier, I did not know about it until I started the install so I sort of made one. The tool is a long bolt with a pointed end, you thread it up through the bottom of the cross bars and it dimples the bed where you need to center the 2. 5" holes. The problem with making your own is finding a bolt that is 5" long and threaded the entire length, I took a 3" bolt, drilled a hole in the center and then inserted a 3" hardened nail. It worked ok.

 

[RJOL]

Thanks for the info...



I've put a regular Reese hitch in my 2001, and what I'm hearing from your post, this install should be just as easy, or maybe easier. I'm leaning toward this hitch.



One last thing. I'd get the 16K, but the literature seems to indicate that it only pivots fore and aft, not side to side. The 18K pivots in all four directions. Can an owner confirm this? Those of you with 16k or 18k, is the side to side pivot worth the extra cost of the hitch? Thanks...

 

[Bertram65]

Pretty sure that is correct, the 16K only goes fore and aft. the 18K goes both fore and aft and side to side. I have only towed a 5th wheel with the 4 way pivot, I have watched the trailer rock a little side to side when a big rig would blow by on the highway, but I never felt it in the truck, I am assuming if I only had a two way it would have been transmitted to the truck. Where I park my trailer in the yard it is not level to where the truck is on both planes, left and right and fore and aft, it hitches and unhitches with ease and never binds, not sure if it would do that without the side to side pivot.

 

[RJOL]

. . Good luck with whatever you choose...

Went with the B&W Turnover Ball. Got a pretty good deal on it through eBay, and it looks like it will work pretty well with my setup... Thanks for the inputs...

 

[mbadger]

I have the Reese hitch and it pivots side to side. I wouldn't have one that doesn't. My son-in-laws doesn't and it causes him problems on uneven spots. My came with my trailer when we bought it. Good luck.



Mike

 

[tschwab]

I could be wrong, but I thought I read several posts regarding the Reese on RV.net where several people have dropped the 5th wheel onto the bed of thier trucks because the locking jaws didn't lock or they malfunctioned? I don't recall if this was the regular Reese or the Signature series. This is one reason I am either going with Pullrite or Hitchiker as they have the bar that slides across the kingpin instead of two jaws that wrap around it.

 

[RJOL]

I could be wrong, but I thought I read several posts regarding the Reese on RV.net where several people have dropped the 5th wheel onto the bed of thier trucks because the locking jaws didn't lock or they malfunctioned? I don't recall if this was the regular Reese or the Signature series. This is one reason I am either going with Pullrite or Hitchiker as they have the bar that slides across the kingpin instead of two jaws that wrap around it.

Terry... I believe the latch on the Reese Signature series is a "hook" type, but I could be wrong...



I currently have a Reese TrailBoss with the locking bar. Although it may be a more positive lock (and I'm not sure if it is, over a "clam shell" or "hook" style) I will tell you that it has a tendency to "bind up" when unhitching. At least this is my experience. I decided to to with a B&W Turnover Ball with the Companion 5th Hitch. It has a "clam shell" type lock, but everyone I've talked with (actually owners) say it is a great hitch, and doesn't require any drilling or welding on the frame, to mount.



I don't want to start a **** contest between types of hitches, but usually if you have a problem, it is operator error. JMHO...

 

[Bertram65]

I could be wrong, but I thought I read several posts regarding the Reese on RV.net where several people have dropped the 5th wheel onto the bed of thier trucks because the locking jaws didn't lock or they malfunctioned? I don't recall if this was the regular Reese or the Signature series. This is one reason I am either going with Pullrite or Hitchiker as they have the bar that slides across the kingpin instead of two jaws that wrap around it.

rv.net is good for a few laughs that's about it, the towing vehicles forum is great entertainment, one load of bad information after another.

The Signature series has a one piece jaw that wraps around the pin from the drivers side, the hitch has a locked visual indicator and you cannot put the safety pin in unless it is locked, if someone dropped a trailer on the bed with one of the Signature hitches they did not have the safety pin in. The Signature hitch does not have two jaws only one.

 

[tschwab]

rv.net is good for a few laughs that's about it, the towing vehicles forum is great entertainment, one load of bad information after another.

I couldn't agree more. Was reading one post of a guy asking about fords 6. o and all the ford owners just raved at how it was the greatest diesel ever... ... I guess they haven't read any forums over at dieselstop.com.

 

[Cummins4WD]

So is all the drilling required to install a Reese Signature 18K generally regarded as "ok" and within the limits of DC and in keeping the integrity of the hydroformed 3rd Gen frame.



I cringe a little at the install of the signature but I haven't found any thing negative about the amount of drilling.



If the general opinion is that the Reese signature has a proven install method that won't screw up my 3rd Gen frame I'll getting one installed on Thursday... I'd just like to hear a few more "it's ok" from some folks or "don't do it man!"