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Reese Strait-Line WD Hitch

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looking for mirror part

Anybody using a Reese Strait-Line 1700 Weight Distribution Hitch with the High Performance Dual Cam Sway Control. Curious to see if it performs as good as the manufacture claims.



I have an Artic Fox TT Toyhualer, 25', fully loaded at 9000 lbs. It 13' tall so the aspect ratio makes act like a sail. She moves around allot in the wind and when passing a semi. I have two friction sway bar now and they do somewhat of a good job but I would like something better. See the sig for truck details. I'm also running a Tow Beast 2. 5" receiver the truck has Air Bags.



Thanks in advance.



Garrett
 
I haven't used the specific hitch assembly you asked about, I think it is a newer product, but I have owned several of the older Reese dual-cam sway control hitch assemblies in the past. They absolutely work when set up properly. They are the solution to your problem and a great hitch for the money.



At one time, about 90% of Airstream and Avion trailer owners used them, probably still do.



They work far better than the friction sleeve sway control devices you are currently using.



Oops, after writing the above I scrolled back up to read what you are towing and with what tow vehicle.



I don't know how heavy your toy hauler is at the rear or how well it is balanced when loaded. That could present a large challenge.



I also don't know if your truck is lifted or has aftermarket off road tires. Many 4x4 owners have their trucks lifted and use oversized tires with tall, flexible sidewalls, and often not 10 ply/LRE but LRD or less. I don't see that in your signature but if your truck is lifted and you are using off road tires I'll have to back off from my confidence that a Reese dual cam hitch will solve your problems.



Harvey
 
I have one

It works as advertized. As to Harvey's other comments, it will not correct the uncorrectable. The trailer must be properly matched to the truck. I pull a 12K straight trailer with mine and it works great, very stable. I have 1200 lb spring bars, the spring bar weight rating should match your tounge weight. If you don't have 1700 lbs tounge weight (doubtfull on a 9000 trailer) I'd use the 1200 lb bars, other wise ride will suffer. Ken Irwin
 
Harvey

Thanks for the time to answer my questions. I want to make sure I'm moving in the right direction.



The Truck: I do have a leveling kit, but I have all the goodies to make the geometry right, longer control arms, its double shocked, good track bar, new stabilizer, PSC gear box, and so on. I'm also running a set of 2006 stock rims (17") with ProComps Extreme A/Ts with the E rating. I wanted a smaller side wall and wider tire combo. Plus the offset is close to my '99 stock rims.



Trailer: Its double axle, the max tounge weight is 1000 lbs. the GTW is 10,700 lbs. I weighted the tailer last season with everything we needed for a 2 week remote trip to Montana. I can't remember the split between my tailer axles and my trucks rear axle but I know I wasn't exceeding the tounge weight. I want to say I was at 700 lbs. The Fresh water, Grey and Black water tanks are positioned over the trailer alxes, one reason I got the trailer.



Ken,

You as well, Thanks for the time. When you say the ride will suffer, meaning to stiff? I have the 2. 5" reciever and as you can tell I'm not really needing that much but I do haul a larger flatbed. I didn't want to use the reducing sleeve to 2". Would the 1000 lbs bars make more sense?



Garrett
 
My opinion

If you have 700 lbs of tounge weight I'd use the 1000 spring bars. The dual cam sway control uses the tounge weight to hold the hitch "centered". It will only have what ever tounge weight you have to work with. Using the heavier spring bars will only make the ride worse in my opinion, it will not make the hitch better in any way. The system works well, if your using it and you still have sway, its something else in your truck trailer combo that's causing it. Hope this helps Ken Irwin
 
Garrett,



The normal rule of thumb is tongue weight should be 12% to 15% of gross trailer weight. If it is lighter than that, as yours appears to be, you are more likely to get trailer "wander" or directional instability.



That light tongue situation might be an inherent problem with toy haulers, I don't know. They are designed to carry a large load at the rear and it is probably difficult to shift enough weight forward to properly load the tongue. I've pulled dozens of toy haulers from the smallest, lightest conventional TT to monster 5th wheel 45'ers but they were alway empty and dry. They pulled fine unloaded.



Harvey



Harvey
 
I second what Harvey said. If your tongue weight is less than 10% of the trailer weight, you will have sway problems, almost guaranteed. What limits you to 1000 pounds tongue weight? Could it be the cheesey receiver that Dodge uses? A 15,000/1500 receiver will cost you less than $150, at least here in TX.
 
Ken, Thanks every little bit help. I've been talking with a Reese Hitch rep and I think he's extremely naive, I wouldn't be surprised if he's never pulled something over 500 lbs. I've purchased both the 1700# and 1000# trunnion bars.



Harvey, Man I think you're onto something. I've been so concerned with trying to keep my trailer axles loaded properly, I've inadvertently lighten the tongue. I have a trip planned at the end of this month. I know I can move my stuff around and get more weight up front. My receiver is rated to 1700# with WD, with a trailer weighing 9,000# the tongue should be around 1,000# to 1,350#. Would you split the difference, go light or heavy for the first run?



GAmes, I have an aftermarket on the truck already. It a Reese Titian Tow Beast, rated at 1,200#, 1,700# with WD. As far as the Tongue weight I got that number off the top of the trailer hitch. I'm assuming it's a recommendation and I can exceed that by ~300#.



Thanks guys for your time.





Garrett
 
Garrett,



I'd guess "splitting the difference" as you suggested would be a good plan as a starting point. After pulling it some you could decide if it is stable as is or maybe shift a little more weight forward if you feel it is needed.



Remember not to overload your trucks' rear tire capacity or the hitch as you shift weight forward.



Harvey
 
Master Chief Barlow,



Loading the trailer this evening and taking it down to the local Truck stop to get the truck and trailer weighed so I can see where I'm at. Thanks for all the help.



I looked you up, I should have done it sooner so I would have known better. You're one who's earned his title.



My Grandfather was a Master Chief as well (FTCM), many thanks for your dedication to your watch and to Country.



Respectfully



Garrett
 
Anybody using a Reese Strait-Line 1700 Weight Distribution Hitch with the High Performance Dual Cam Sway Control. Curious to see if it performs as good as the manufacture claims.



I have an Artic Fox TT Toyhualer, 25', fully loaded at 9000 lbs. It 13' tall so the aspect ratio makes act like a sail. She moves around allot in the wind and when passing a semi. I have two friction sway bar now and they do somewhat of a good job but I would like something better. See the sig for truck details. I'm also running a Tow Beast 2. 5" receiver the truck has Air Bags.



Thanks in advance.



Garrett



Maybe you have already done so, but check out Woodalls.com (tow forum).

Oodles of posts on WD hitches. After exploring all the options I decided on the Equalizer.
 
DeezelDood,

Thanks for your time and info. I did consider the "Equal-i-zer" hitch. However I didn't want get all caught up in trying to get a shank and Trunnion head for a 2 1/2" receiver. They don't appear to have the right size, plus I didn't want to down size and use the 2 1/2" to 2" sleeve.



I wasn't familiar with Woodalls.com. Good site and for those who are running the Dual Cam Sway control, I found an article on the setup and proper adjustments written by some actual users. Well I though it was informative anyway.



: Towing: Travel Trailer Hitch Set-up Procedure



Darn if it didn't snow last night and due to me wussin' out because of the cold I'm diferring to this weekend. I'll make sure to post how things turn out





Thanks for all the help guys



Garrett
 
Last edited by a moderator:
DeezelDood,

Thanks for your time and info. I did consider the "Equal-i-zer" hitch. However I didn't want get all caught up in trying to get a shank and Trunnion head for a 2 1/2" receiver. They don't appear to have the right size, plus I didn't want to down size and use the 2 1/2" to 2" sleeve.



I wasn’t familiar with Woodalls.com. Good site and for those who are running the Dual Cam Sway control, I found an article on the setup and proper adjustments written by some actual users. Well I though it was informative anyway.



: Towing: Travel Trailer Hitch Set-up Procedure



Darn if it didn't snow last night and due to me wussin' out because of the cold I'm diferring to this weekend. I'll make sure to post how things turn out





Thanks for all the help guys



Garrett



Glad to help. I missed your 2-1/2" receiver. I concur, inserts and jerry rigs are not the way to go. Happy towing.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Hitch is installed and the difference is huge in my opinion. I wasn’t able to get axle weights, scales are closed for maintenance. But I went ahead and did my best to estimate the tongue weight and setup (Bathroom Scale and a long 4 x 4). I used the 1700# spring bars first, I think I’ll use these most of the time. They were easier to adjust than the 1000# spring bars and the sway control seems much better. I moved the load around in the trailer several time too, just to see what difference it made. I pulled the trailer about 100 miles over a nice twist mountain pass (Berthoud Pass, US Hwy 40) to see how well things worked. Anyhow I think I got it, just waiting for the end of the month to go on a long run to Utah.



Thanks guys for your time and input





Garrett
 
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