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regearing to 4:10's

Would it be worth it for me to go from 3:73's to 4:10's. We pull a 13,500lbs. fifth wheel and the truck does fine on the flat open roads but seems to struggle a little on the larger mountains. i get tired of the constant shifting from 6th to 5th at 65mph for small inclines or headwinds. We are looking at larger toyhaulers so I've been throwing around the idea of going to 4:10 since it would up my towing by 6500 lbs according to dodge. It would run around $3,000 for both axles. cheaper than trying to trade!!!
 
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No. I went from 3. 73's in my 08 to 4. 10's in my 2010. Still shifts, just a little low road speed. 1800 rpm is about the bottom of the torque band and it will shift at that point anyways. If you want to run 65 mph, it is best to stay in 5th. If you want to run 75 mph, it will stay in 6th most the time. But if you hit a steep grade or running into a good head wind, it will shift anyways.
 
Sixth gear/second overdrive is too tall for towing a heavy trailer with large frontal area on anything but flat land with 3. 73 gears. Even the 4. 10 geared trucks will downshift on some grades.

It would be cheaper and easier to simply get in the habit of towing in fifth gear.

My cab and chassis with Aisin six speed automatic and 4. 10 gears locks sixth gear out when in the Tow/Haul mode. I've learned to run in T/H at about 62 mph with my fifthwheel. It is more relaxing for me and for the truck.
 
Why do the 4:10 3500 DRW have a 6500lb. larger towing capacity over the 3:73's, There's not that much rpm difference. Is there more to the trucks than just gearing?
 
When the MaxTow package was introduced for the late 2011 3500 DRW trucks, it included (as I recall):



1. The 350/800 Cummins HO

2. The 68RFE automatic with upgraded torque converter and cooling

3. 4. 10 rear axle with strengthened pinion support

4. An aluminum finned rear differential cover for improved cooling



How much of this made its way to the non-MaxTow trucks, I honestly don't know since my truck is an early 2011.



By the way, towing our 16K GVWR 5th wheel (13'2" tall, 102" wide) with the 4. 10s, the truck will stay in 6th at 65 MPH (~1700-1750 RPM) on the flats with no problem. It will downshift to 5th, however, on longer or steeper grades.



Rusty
 
Why do the 4:10 3500 DRW have a 6500lb. larger towing capacity over the 3:73's, There's not that much rpm difference. Is there more to the trucks than just gearing?

Actually, when comparing apples to apples ie the ordinary Ram trucks prior to the new HO 800 intro, the difference was about 3,500 lbs.

It was because Ram engineers have determined with testing that the 4. 10 gears work far better when towing heavy loads. Some of the benefits of 4. 10 gears are load startability on steep grades, ability to hold the higher gears longer and with less stress on grades, more effective exhaust braking, and probably improved fuel economy when loaded heavy.

This discussion will bring out all the supporters of 3. 73 gears again to once more attempt to defend the indefensible but you asked and so far, three of us have answered.
 
Personally, I would just get used to towing in 5th. I don't think it would be worth the swap, and $3,000 sounds low to me. I just had the 3. 55 rear in my '98. 5 c/c swapped to a 4. 10 because my teeth were chipped, and it would be easier on the clutch. The rear ran around $2,300 installed. It was a pretty big job getting all the clearances and backlash set properly, apparently.
Anyway, starting out loaded with a 5 speed manual is much easier on the clutch now. But you have an automatic, and the jump from 3. 73-4. 10 is around half the jump from my 3. 55 to a 4. 10. So I would say no, and don't be surprised if that $3000 quote ends up being higher.
 
Yes,I may just have to use fifth gear more!! I got a quote from Dodge Dealer for $1600. 00 labor front & rear

Gears & install kits from 8 Lug-$1,000. 00

misc. , Fluids,etc. -$300. 00
 
Yes,I may just have to use fifth gear more!! I got a quote from Dodge Dealer for $1600. 00 labor front & rear

Gears & install kits from 8 Lug-$1,000. 00

misc. , Fluids,etc. -$300. 00
Your signature doesn't show if its an auto or manual? If auto I would leave it alone, if manual I might consider it, look at sig. I love it until I'm in small rolling hills and I am constantly shifting to keep at the 55 MPH in California, while towing.
 
Anybody that tows heavy will benefit from having the correct gearing!

Wether or not you will enjoy paying for the improvement is another matter.

A good gear shop will make the pill easier to swallow.

My local gear shop-Uni=Trax in Anaheim does the job for roughly half the dealer price. They buy gears directly from AAM-cutting out the middle man.

Towing my little Airstream with the 4. 10s and stock tires through the Sierras was a dream. Now with taller tires it's not as user friendly and with only the 4 speed auto... ... ..... well you get the picture.

For the guys that want to say extra power will make up for it... ... ... ... . sure the truck will do what you ask of it but with greater wear and fuel usage along with more noise.

Like every other mod each driver puts different different value to each factor in the equation.
 
I agree with Bob above.

If the original poster tows his fifthwheel extensively and plans to own the new truck for many years having a skilled private shop make the conversion would make towing more pleasant and perhaps the cost would be tolerable. Only he can decide.
 
Yes, i haven't gotten any prices from ant local shops yet. The dealer told me if they do the install the powertrain warrenty would still be honored, but if someone else does it they would consider it a modification and may viod the powertrain warrenty( he may be blowing smoke up mt @**@). The guy at 8 Lug diesel said the rear is not too bad to do but the front is time consuming!!! He carries AAM gears at a good price.
 
The AAM front axle is easier and quicker than the Dana front ends,but both are more time consuming than the rear... ... ... more work to remove the axles.
 
I wouldn't worry about a driveline warranty. It means little. Do what you want and forget the warranty. Its probably not detectable if a future failure should occur.
 
I believe that the higher rating comes from more power at LOW speeds, starting out, etc. Not from towing down the road. Just shift down a gear on the highway. Cannot do that backing up an incline from a start though.
 
The main reason that gearing effects tow rating is acceleration. With lower gears the motor has to make less torque to put the same torque to the wheels, this means less strain on the drivetrain while accelerating and more tq to the ground in high gears when the tq management is removed.

4. 10s put about 10% more tq to the ground for a given enigne tq than 3. 73's do.

I don't tow that heavy, but I want 4. 10's. The only time that I think 3. 73's are better than 4. 10's is in 1:1 and pulling grades. I drive off rpms and 4. 10's would be about 6 mph slower at my normal pulling rpm. . but then again I would get better fuel economy. 4. 10's are great in lower gears, and holding OD at highway speeds.
 
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