relay for aux lites

[rich m]

Howdy, all. I've got some auxiliary lites on the front end. For hands-free on/off I switch them thru an old-fashioned footclick dimmer switch that i bolted to the floor. (only one lead connected, rather than both like the normal way).
This is all fine'n good, but it's totally independent of ignition, etc, so I can leave them on and run the batteries down. #ad

What I wanna do is feed them thru a relay that disconnects when the engine is "off", but still have in-cab control (naturally)

First attempt, successful, but must have been a poor choice:
Ford-style 4-prong starter solenoid, lite-feed run thru the "BIG" connectors in series with the dimmerswitch, and a jumper wire from the "hold-open" solenoid to the "aux lite" solenoid, so that both are energized at the same time. The circuitry worked perfectly, but I guess that type of solenoid is not for extended "on" use, as it only endured for a couple of days, and then wouldn't close ("on") the circuit.
Asking the modern "parts counter" guy for a "relay" or any "out-of-ordinary" part has become SUCH a waste of time over the last few years that I shudder to go without an actual part number for what I need. Anybody fool around with these and know a good choice for what I've described?

Another alternative would be to simply swap the wiring from my stealth "kill" switch and the foot-clicker, but then I'd be forced to "click" the foot-switch EVERY time I want the engine to die. (would be a superstealth theft deterrent, though!)

 

[tgbol]

how many amps do the lights draw?
Both Hella and Bosche make a 70 amp relay.
Also Cole-Hersey makes a number or constatnt duty solenoids similar to the Ferd unit.

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01. 5 QC ETH/DEE 4X4 LB intense blue sport, everything but leather and cab lights. DC brush guard, missing turbo ring, amber rear turn signals and real back-up lights

 

[mongoose]

I've got two 100 watt lights run through a 30 amp relay and have not had any problems. I forget the number layout on the relay, but will get it for you. The way that i did it was run from the battery to the relay to the lights. then from a lead off the park lights i ran to my switch and from the switch to the relay. This way the switch will only turn the lights on when the park lights are on, but i can also turn the light on and off manually by the switch, if the park lights are on. I'll find the pin diagram for the relay and post back for you.

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Daniel McKeehan
1999 2500 QC/Short Bed/4X4 5 speed. Camper Package and of course a Cummins.

 

[B.G. Smith]

If you have Auto Zone there, they have a relay in the Fog/Driving ligh section that I have had good service luck with. bg

 

[illflem]

Rich, I bought two fog lamp relays from NAPA, $14. 95 each. One has controled my Ram fog lights for five years, no problem. The other controls an orchard machine that retracts around each tree, out of curiosity I calculated that the relay cycles over 1. 5 million times per year. The relay is still going strong even though the pins and bushings on the machine have to be replaced at least twice a year.

 

[Joe G.]

You can get a good 30 amp relay at Radio Shack for about $5. The diagram is on the back of the package. It uses standard crimp on spade lug connectors.

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Joe George
Eureka, CA

'95 2500 CC auto 4X4,3. 54,Combo EGT/boost guage,custom switch panel,PacBrake,TST #5,DTT TC/VB,Automatic motorhome steps on both sides,Foldacover hard bed cover,Cummins chrome kit,Black steel grill guard,Front hitch receiver

 

[mongoose]

here is a little diagram that i drew up. hope it helps. The relay in the diagram is like the ones from radio shack and auto zone. It is just a 30 amp 12 volt relay.

#ad


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Daniel McKeehan
1999 2500 QC/Short Bed/4X4 5 speed. Camper Package and of course a Cummins.

 

[Joe G.]

Daniel,

The relay in the diagram is a single pole, double throw relay. I use those in my motor home step installation on my truck. The Radio Shack relay is a single pole, single throw relay. That is, it doesn't have the 87a terminal. Both will work here, however the one with the 87a terminal will cost a little more. The thing about the double throw relay is that the 87a terminal conducts until the relay is tripped which breaks the 87a connection and makes the 87 connection. This is nice for things where you want the connection made until you move the switch. For example, I want my steps alive, but I don't want the battery run down if the truck sits for quite a while. I turn them off if I want to service or wash them.

 

[EMDDIESEL]

Check out www.galls.com they are a huge supplier of warning lights for police/fire/ems. They sell heavy duty circuit breakers in amperages of 80, 100 or 150 amps for $29. 99 each. The part munber is J-SE058 and then tell them what amperage after the part number. They also have Bosch 75 amp relays for $17. 99 each, part number
J-SE057. Plus they have lots of other electrical supplies like switch panels, mounting blocks, sirens, strobes etc. Order there catalog it is huge, full color and they send it out like 6 times a year for free. They have TONS of cool stuff and lighting accesories for your truck. I use them all the time.

 

[rich m]

Originally posted by Joe G. :
You can get a good 30 amp relay at Radio Shack for about $5. The diagram is on the back of the package. It uses standard crimp on spade lug connectors.

Great Minds Think Alike--- and so do ours #ad


Did it that way... works good. Ditched the foot-clicker in favor of an illuminated rocker switch installed in the dash. Still wired the thing with finger-switch and relay in series, with the relay trip triggered by the "hold-open". When I kill the engine, either by key or by "secret" switch, the lites go out too. Then I just ziptied the little screw-hole to a big cable, and shut the hood. Wonder what made the other (starter solenoid) one fail? Designed for intermittent use, and subjected to an extended demand?

Thanx for responses, everybody.

 

[Bill Lins]

Originally posted by rich m:
Wonder what made the other (starter solenoid) one fail? Designed for intermittent use, and subjected to an extended demand?

You got it! (bt,dt) #ad




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Bill Lins Wharton, TX 98 2500 QC SLT,12 (the CORRECT # of)valves,NV4500,3. 54 LSD,Manik grille guard,Semi-Psychotty Air,Amsoil everywhere, Reading aluminum utility body and bumper,Optima yellow tops- silencer ring & muffler stolen.

 

[Joe G.]

Rich,

The starter solenoid failed because it's only designed to work for a few seconds. If it stays on very long it will over heat and burn up. You can test this by doing it on your work bench. Within a few seconds the starter solenoid will be too hot to pick up. A high output solenoid that is designed to remain activated have a pull on and a hold coil. The hold coil requires a lot less current to do it's job then the pull on coil. A good example of one of this type is the fuel solenoid on a 12 V Cummins.

 

[tgbol]

Cole-Hersey makes continuous duty solenoids.
#24059 and 24117(sealed in plastic)
Hella makes a 70amp relay # 87110.
the Hella relay 87105 has a 20 amp fuse built in but the relay easily handles 30 amps.
the Delco soleniod 1114218 is the same as the C-H 24059

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01. 5 QC ETH/DEE 4X4 LB intense blue sport, everything but leather and cab lights. DC brush guard, missing turbo ring, amber rear turn signals and real back-up lights

 

[Joe G.]

tgbol,

Do you know of a source or web site for the Cole-Hersey solenoids? An 800 number won't work for me since I'm almost deaf. Any idea about the price?

Thanks,

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Joe George
Eureka, CA

'95 2500 CC auto 4X4,3. 54,Combo EGT/boost guage,custom switch panel,PacBrake,TST #5,DTT TC/VB,Automatic motorhome steps on both sides,Foldacover hard bed cover,Cummins chrome kit,Black steel grill guard,Front hitch receiver

 

[PMalin]

Just my 2 cents... . If I were wiring up
lights up to about 150 watts each, I would
order a DPDT relay from Grainger and a
socket for the relay. The relay has the
wiring diagram printed on it, usually.
Anyway a 12V coil and contacts rated at 12A
and the coil only draws about 100ma, this
relay is stock no. 1A484 with Grainger for
about $15 for the relay and the socket part
number is 5X852, about $4. Mount this socket and if
you need to ever replace the relay, just
pull it out and plug another in. Then you can
use a nice fancy small control switch from
the dash to energize the relay coil, which
then the relay handles the heavy current. I
would take advantage and use both poles of
the relay if your lights are greater than
about 75 watts each. Idea being based on a
2 light system.

My catalog was a few years old so hope the
info is up to date. They have a phone # at
972-423-2127, this was catalog number 387.