Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) relay part number

[jkh]

i think my pull on relay is going bad. I read that there is a Radio Shack relay which is the same thing. Does anyone know what the part number is for it.

 

[Joe G.]

The relay is supposed to be 70 amp rating. The RS relay is only 30 amp. The fuel solenoid draws 40 amps. The relay is a standard 70 amp relay so you don't need to pay the outrageous price Dodge wants. If you can't find it locally you can order it from Allied NTE Electronics, Inc. - R51-1D70-12 - Allied Electronics .

 

[Jwilli]

jkh



I ordered two of those relays yesterday. I ordered two because they were so cheap. It costs about as much in S&H as the one part did. Plus it probably doesn't hurt to have a spare. After reading Joe G's "1994 thru 1998 12 Valve Fuel System Operation and Repair" paper I narrowed my hard starting problem down to a faulty (or intermittent) relay. I checked with the dealer (Phoenix, AZ) and the current price for a replacement relay is $95. To get me by until the new relay arrives I removed the relay and cleaned the contacts. So, far just the clean-up of the contacts has worked. But, it has only been two days. The trick to removing the relay (from the plastic case) is to use feeler gauges on all four sides to hold the tabs back (I learned this from one of the posts also). You will need a screw driver create a space to slip in the feeler gauges. I have pictures of the process if you would like me to send to your Email address.



Ross

Peoria, AZ

 

[The patriot]

Last time I ordered I got a spare or two also.

I just leave them in the glove box.

 

[Jwilli]

Joe G and/or Patriot



Did the NTE part fit into the OEM housing that factory relay is in? The reason I ask is because the relay from NTE comes with a top hat lid. The one I removed from the truck did not have a separate lid.



Thanks

Ross

 

[Joe G.]

Did you click on the URL in my post above? It shows a picture of the relay. That page also has a link to a detailed description of the relay. That fits the OEM housing fine. Just remove the old relay and plug the new one in. If it has the mounting tab on it, remove the tab.

 

[Jwilli]

Joe G



Yep, I looked at the picture, but the relay that I removed from the truck did not have the cover as shown in the URL photo. It is good to know that it will fit just fine. I would also like to thank you again for the "1994 thru 1998 12 Valve Fuel System Operation and Repair" paper that you sent me. It saved me from buying an expensive dealer part and I learned a great deal more about the workings of the engine.



Ross

 

[Joe G.]

Thanks for the kind words. I am a little puzzled by what you mean by a cover. Does your old relay have the internals exposed? Can you take a picture of your old relay and send it to me or post it in this thread. The relay that Allied sells is normal as far as I can tell. You can recognize the 70 amp relay because the load pins are wider than the signal pins. A 30 amp has pins that are all the same size.

 

[Jwilli]

Joe G



Exactly. The internals were exposed when I removed it from the housing (that is bolted to the fire wall). I did take pictures, however we have a new digital camera, but we need find (in the house) the software to load the pictures on the computer. Hopefully, I can post tomorrow at the latest.



Ross

 

[Joe G.]

If you have a new digital camera it should have come with a USB cable so it will plug into your computer and be treated as a removable hard drive. My old digital camera died and I bought a new Canon SD1100 that fits nicely in my shirt pocket. It was packaged with software for PC and Mac plus a USB cable. If you have a slot on your computer for a SD card and your camera uses one just plug it into the slot. No additional software is necessary.

The OEM relay had a cover on it just like the picture in the Allied documentation. Did it come off the relay and is still stuck in the cover? Or just plain missing? Does the old relay have all the pins the same size or does it have two large pins and two smaller pins?