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Guns, Bows, Shooting Sports, and Hunting Reloading

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Nice addition to forum topics. I just got started reloading, Hornady L-N-L AP, works good so far, challenging way to spend some bench time, need to learn techniques then start tweaking. 30-06, . 223 for now. First batch went bang on cue, holes in paper and hit the silhouette steel plate, nice thunk.
 
Cool!

I too hope to start reloading this year, the price of ammo is getting rediculous. I just need to decide between the Hornady L-N-L or the Dillon XL650.
 
I just got a Lee 1000 to load pistol rounds, mostly . 40s&w. I have done about 700 rounds so far. No too concerned about ultimate accuracy with these. It seems to be a very good press for the price. I am looking to get the bullet dropper so it will be a "hands free" operation and speed it up some. I also got two older single stage RCBS presses for more accurate loading. My neighbor gave me one and I picked up the other for $50. That one also had a bunch of the other little stuff you need like a powder dropper and scale. . I've loaded a batch of 6. 5x55 Swedish but haven't had the chance to shoot them. Check around for used stuff on ebay, Craig's List and the like. Lots of people start out with grand ideas and run out of steam. TDR, thanks for this forum!!
 
Thanks TDR

Man, what a refreshing topic. I have been reloading for 41 years. Went to gunsmithing school in the '70's and have built a few rifles in my day. "Aint nuttin" like shooting long range rifle at targets or filling the freezer with meat.

I use a RCBS Rock Chucker press with dies from Jones, Redding and RCBS. I also have straight line hand dies from Wilson with a Sinclair arbor press. I use a HERTERS powder scale that I bought when I was 17 years old. Along with various hand tools and methods for prepping and cleaning brass that I have adopted, over the years. The art and Science of Riflery is the only thing that I would rather do than Weld Oo. . Greg
 
A timely Forum

Interesting that Reloading should be mentioned here, at this web site. I will be instructing my Brother-in-Law in the fine skill of reloading . 270 Winchester Ammunition and the statistical approach to load developement. Who says ya cant teach an "Old Dog new Tricks":D. We will be diving into this all day Saturday. From brass inspection, primer pocket and flash hole prep to proper lubricants for sizing , cleaning, chamfering and loading. We will be using the 140 Grain Nosler Ballistic tip bullets. He is using a Savage 110 bolt action rifle. The potential is there for some excellent shooting. After the loading session, we then have to schedule some range time. I need some trigger time, myself. Its been a while, with fix this, repair that, something else got broke. "Nothun like some Stress Remediation and Management" at the range:D. GregH
 
I was fortunate enough to belong to the Memphis Sport Shooting Assn. for a couple of years, met some fantastic shooters, competed in NRA High Power and XTC matches. That was fun while I lived there. 600 yards at bullseye targets with iron sights was fun, both AR and M1.



I chose the Hornady over the Dillon, my reloading neighbor has 2 Dillons, I never used a Dillon, the Hornady just looked strong and you ge 1000 free bullets with a L-N-L AP. Hornady even has grease fittings on the bearing points of the lever system.
 
GCroyle, Sounds like a good deal. I am a member of Colorado Rifle Club and Buffalo Creek Gun Club. We have every shooting discipline represented. Both Clubs have fielded shooters that compete at Camp Perry, at the National Matches. BCGC has a World Class Juniors program that has fielded Winning teams and individuals. CRC has been the training ground for Long Range Winning individuals at Perry and International Palma Competition. Our Ranges have also been used by Law Enforcement and Military Reserves for training and Qualifications. I'm just a Layman in this area. But its great to know that these facilities are available. GregH
 
Greg,



I tried to find a suitable (by my experience from MSSA) range for competition in SC, NC, no real luck. Once you have shot at 200, 300 and 600 yds. with target pits and pullers giving you IMEDIATE feedback on every shot, not much else works as well. I can't keep up with 1/4" holes at 200 yds let alone 300 yds. I have a nearby 200 yd range just to enjoy, but strappin on the coat, slinging up and IS THE LINE READY? READY ON THE RIGHT, READY ON THE LEFT etc. gets you going. We also shot the Garand Match and a Service Rifle Silhouette match that was a lot of fun. I even tried to compete with an '03 and '03A3. GREAT FUN!
 
Cool!

I too hope to start reloading this year, the price of ammo is getting rediculous. I just need to decide between the Hornady L-N-L or the Dillon XL650.



I own both presses and both are very high quality. I prefer the Dillion due to their customer service reputation. By all accounts Dillon has a no BS warranty and they seem to honor all claims. I've never used the Dillon warranty but I have used Hornady's customer service and I was very happy with their service. I don't think you can go wrong either way.
 
Nice addition to the TDR forum. I own a XL650 very bullet proof very accurate. Anybody reload . 243 win for a Ruger model 1 ?
 
I have a Dillon 550. An older model.

Had it for about 20 years now.

I also have a couple single stage presses for the low volume stuff.
 
i have a 650 and it's always fun to floor someone with how quickly it can belt out finished rounds, got my uncle last "it would take me a week to load that" :-laf
 
95% of reloading is preperation of your brass. If you dont recut primer pockets and deburr flash holes initially nor clean brass that has been once fired and deprimed the process is quite speedy. However a multi-stage progressive press really makes the process into production. GregH
 
Prep time is a big one, then develop a definite pattern to your procedure with an automatic, DON'T CHANGE IT or you'll have powder in the wrong places (oops, where is that primer!). Still waiting for a pocket reamer from Midway, I'm going the Hornady ream route to prep military primer pockets, neighbor swages to convert, I'm not sure about that idea, no I have not tried it. I set up a drill press (chuck contains a de-priming homemade punch, not spinning, just pressing) to work as a de-priming station, pops those primers out fast, then polish tumble the brass w/o old primers in there, looks like it will keep the L-N-L AP press clean and allow for pocket inspection and good cleaning.



What say you, your $. 02 always appreciated.
 
My processing procedure for fired brass is as follows. I dump a batch of 100 or more cases in my tumbler with HOT Soapy water (Dawn hand dish washing liquid, NO Chlorinated detergents allowed) I tumble them with a hand full of steel air rifle shot, for about 2-3 hours. I rinse them in hot clear water in the sink, dumping out the contents of each case and making sure they are rinsed completely (A thorough inspection of each case is performed at this time). I then Dry them on a cookie sheet in the oven at <200*F. for a couple of hours. Now I have really clean brass!!! Next; Decap and size necks in one step, or Full length size and decap. Depends on application. Clean primer pockets. Prime, powder and seat bullet. All rifle cases are prepped with a primer pocket reamer to SAAMI depth. You would be suprised at how much difference that makes in the consistancy of seating depth of the primer! I also Deburr the inside of the flash hole. Some brass requires outside neck turning and trimming. This is the overview. GregH
 
Greg,



Thanks for the details, I'm just getting started. I have a dry media vibratory system. The one thing if you could elaborate a bit more on is how you do the reaming of the primer pockets to the SAAMI depth? Can you describe this a bit more please? Is it one depth / primer size, eg: LR, SR LP, SP etc?



I have a lot of Lake City 06 to process and some Win. Q3131 . 223 with crimped pockets to get right.
 
Greg,



Thanks for the details, I'm just getting started. I have a dry media vibratory system. The one thing if you could elaborate a bit more on is how you do the reaming of the primer pockets to the SAAMI depth? Can you describe this a bit more please? Is it one depth / primer size, eg: LR, SR LP, SP etc?



I have a lot of Lake City 06 to process and some Win. Q3131 . 223 with crimped pockets to get right.



The tool is specific to large and small primer pockets and is depth adjustable. The correct depth is written in the instructions. I purchased my tool from Sinclair International. It is made of solid carbide and cuts dry. You can use it by hand or disassemble it from the handle and power it with a battery powered drill motor. The nice thing about this procedure is the inside of the pocket is cut square and flat. Not domed and radiused like the factory pocket. The primer is seated to the same depth each time and stops on the leading edge of the cup allowing the anvil of the primer to be consistantly sensitized. It also prevents high primers that may cause a slam fire in an auto-loading rifle. I also use this tool to clean the pockets after firing. Hope this is helpful. You may have to do a seperate step to remove the G. I crimp? The only G. I. brass that I use is MATCH headstamp . 30/06 and 7. 62 NATO. I have not had a problem with crimps. GregH
 
I have a quick question about progressive presses.

What is the difference between auto indexing vs. manual inexing?
 
Greg,



Great information. I was wondering about my neighbors approach using the RCBS swage tool, but it doesn't seem like the best approach in my head because it is not squaring off the pocket ike you describe. I haven't mad any mistakes yet, haven't done anything either. So I have the chance to get it right the first time. I like the square corners idea, primer sit here and wait to get spanked!





mrsnow,

I think your referring to the following difference, my L-N-L AP is Auto Index, each handle cycle advances the shell plate one position. Manual index, you use your hand to index the shell plate.
 
I have a quick question about progressive presses.

What is the difference between auto indexing vs. manual inexing?



Yep, The explaination is intuitive. The auto-indexing uses a cam or lever that is actuated by the down or up stroke of the press and causes the die plate or shell holder plate to advance to the next stage. Manual indexing is caused by yer greasy finger:-laf moving/rotating the cartridge/shell holder or die plate to the next stage. Greg
 
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