Relocating Batteries

[kmiller]

I was wondering if anyone has relocated the batteries to improve weight distribution? With the weight of the CTD it would seem that having 2 heavy batteries past the front axles would not be a good idea, except for convient access.

 

[klenger]

Can you say "very big wire"?

 

[MikeR]

The front ends of these trucks weigh over 4000 lbs (assuming ext cab 4x4). I really don't think 80 lbs off the front end will be noticed at all.



-Mike

 

[HC]

Hummm... .

An interesting idea. The owners manual makes a big deal about not exceeding something like 120# (#???) of permanent front mounted snow plow equipment. And if you move them far enough back, the WXD effect will magnify the result. I also suspect these batteries weigh more than 40# each. All of this makes me think the result might make some difference even on these very heavy trucks. Since they make winch set-ups for plugging into the rear receiver, there are some applications that use the monster cables to move high amperage loads the length of the vehicle.



Cons? Wow, the cables really would need to be huge to be sure you got full voltage for cranking. You'd have to be careful with routing and supporting them to avoid shorts, due to either vibration, or wrecks. There might be more vibration damage to a battery mounted in the bed, especially if you go all the way back to the tailgate. Acid leaks would get on your "stuff" instead of dripping on the front fender well.



It would be a bit of a gamble; you'd do a lot of work, and then the results may or may not be satisfying to you. I see this as one I would most likely never get around to doing, but, I do think the idea has some merit.

 

[SS]

Frame mounted?

If you were really fired up about this idea, you could try to find an area to mount them under the truck. Optima batteries are ideal for this - won't drip, are less vibration sensitive, and can mount them upside down if you need to. I don't recall battery ratings compared to stock. Stay away from exhaust and rotating components. Might actually find a location that has less heat than underhood. Post results if you decide to tackle it.

 

[cullyguy]

Long time ago HOT ROD mag ran an article on moving batteries to the trunk. If I remember correctly it was the same as moving the motor back 10 inches! and that was just one battery. Moving them to the Bed in front of the wheel wells would be a workable place. Using Marine Battery boxes ( available @Walmart for about $10 each) would solve the leakage issue They even come with tie down straps. Cable available from a welding supply store will easily handle the amps. Moving the batteries back for weight is one issue, the space left could be used for a Godzilla size air box with a fresh air intake Well off to the garage I go to take some measurements

 

[C Schomer]

I've thought about moving them to the outside frame behind the cab for a long time - but low priority. Run welding cables to the starter and one back up to the left fender to power the accessories. The distance from the batteries to the starter wouldn't be very much farther. Use the same stock pos cable between the batteries and hook the grounds to the transmission. It would lower the center of gravity a little and I think the front end would ride noticably lighter. Craig

 

[Diesel Freak]

not a bad idea

I was thinking about this but for the reason of making some extra space under the hood for a cowl induction straight into the

turbo(s) and also for adding an HKS watercooled intercooler after the factory intercooler.

 

[Dane]

As soon as my stock batterys are showing signs of age, I'm going to relocate one large 1000CCA battery to the right front inside of the bed. I'll build a battery box so I can still bring home a yard of rock in the bed or other goodies.



Imo, any weight off the very front heavy Dodge/Cummins will be helpfull. Also, the extra weight in the bed will help smooth the unloaded ride.



I will tie in electrically to the stock cables using 00 cable, solder and shrink tubing.



Only drawback I see is having to run jumper cables into my shell or cabover and through a hatch if I need a jump start. I already carry long, heavy duty truck jumper cables.

 

[Diesel Freak]

I was thinking about using 0000 cabel for the main buss but the reall good stuff (at stereo shops) is real spendy

 

[JohnE]

what kills a battery?

The best reason to relocate your battery or batteries is to get them away from the heat and vibration. H&V are the leading cases of batery failure?



Dane;

Weight is usually best on the driver's side of the trucks. This works best with the natural crown built into a road bed. It should also shorten the battery cable. If you worry on jump starting, add a Goodall or Anderson unit and put it in the grill area.



Freak;

No stereo shops! Get your cable at welding or electrical supply shops. Ask for welder cable or trailing cable (mining term). Many times an electrical contractor will have less than 10 feet of cable in the junk bin and sell it for close to scrap pricing.



Arc it



-John

 

[dan_gilson]

Dave already thought about all of this...

Check out Dave's page: http://dodgeram.org/ki4cy/wiring/batteries.htm.



He is using these for his camper but could be used as main batteries.



Another thought about jumping. Why not install a tow truck setup? : 2 prong female connector on each bumper. I have seen this in Horton catalog as well as Northern. They normally around $100. If you have to give or get a jump, you do not have to do anything other than get the cable, plug it in and you now have 16 to 20 feet from either bumper to work with.

 

[C Schomer]

Tweco connectors from a welding shop might be cheaper.

 

[SOOT]

Dan_Gilson

We have the 2 prong female connector on all of our shop trucks. It works really well.

 

[dan_gilson]

Here is are some links to horton: https://www.hortontruck.com/details.cfm?id=706

https://www.hortontruck.com/details.cfm?id=707



By the looks of it, you will probably have to purchase extra cable & connector for a rear mount.

 

[Alaskaskiff]

Best deal I have seen for the plug-in jumper cables that the tow trucks use is http://www.galls.com. They are under $60.

 

[Vaughn MacKenzie]

Weight distribution %

Regarding improving weight distribution, I believe it will help. . . a little.



My 2wd as an example weighs about 4300lbs front / 2250lbs rear = 6550lbs with my canopy (see sig).



That equates to 65. 6%F/34. 4%R weight distribution percentage.



I heard the batteries weigh about 120lbs total. Throw that into the equation and you get a weight distribution on my truck of 63. 7%F/36. 3%R . That is a full 2 percentage points improvement. Definitely an improvement though not a huge one.



IMO even 2% improvement is worth doing it, and I plan to relocate my batteries eventually.



Vaughn

 

[rbolten]

How about our front end replacement grill guards, 600-800lb. ----how's that for weight distribution!

 

[kmiller]

Thanks for all the info guys. Great responses! I'll have to keep this for the proper time.

 

[Mr. C]

Keep in mind with 1000 amps on tap, no fuse, and lots of big honkin wire running all over the place, things could get real ugly if a short were to develop. JMHO